Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#35184 12/21/03 11:06 PM
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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From what I can tell I have a 1954 235 in my 1950, ( B 224 stamped on block just above starter). I am looking for suggestions on how I might be able to increase performance without stuffing in a 350. It currently is running a single rochester. I have heard duals would help with a offy intake. Not looking for a dragster, just a bit more pep. Any input would help.

Thanks

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#35185 12/21/03 11:48 PM
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Answer, install a set of Fenton or Corvette Exhaust manifolds,and custom dual exhaust, install a set of two Rochester carbs jetted and set up for dual carb use, or a smallfour barrel carb and manifold, install a mild Mc Gurk or is it a Mc Gurt? cam or a Howard cam, install a Mallory dual point distributor or distributor plate for the Delco unit,or a modified HEI Distributor and coil have the engine balanced ( Recipocating items), Install a powerglide rear end, or a Saginaw 4 speed tranny and open driveline.

Check out the Inliners Intl. site or the Stovebolt engine company site.


Life's a long winding trail, love Jesus and ride a good horse!
#35186 12/22/03 12:32 AM
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any Idea what balancing should / would cost? I can price all other items but don't really know where to start.
I allready have a 86 s-10 4x4 rear end and a 700r4 trans in with the adapter plate from stovebolt ( set up was recomended by Tom at stovebolt and bolts right in). The od tranny really seemed to help but more pep will be great.

#35187 12/23/03 12:59 PM
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It sounds like you have a very good setup in the car, a 57 261 truck engine or a 300 GMC with the performance equip I noted for the 235 would be a good match, and 235 and 261 performance equipment is almost a 100% swap out, I don't know about the interchange ability of the Chevrolet and the GMC.
Engine balanceing.. (check with Troy at Stovebolt)...I think a performance engine builder or engine machine shop could provide that service, which at the bare minimum consists of weighing each piston and rod and removeing metal to make all of them weigh the same as the lightest of each, balanceing the crank shaft and flywheel looks to me to be the most diffucult item. It has been about 45 years since I had this done at a professional shop in Denton , Texas and I believe that he charged me $125 to do a new 261 short block. The results were well worth the investment as it increased acceleration and increased RPMs. The engine ran many miles in my 52 Belair.


Life's a long winding trail, love Jesus and ride a good horse!
#35188 12/25/03 04:11 PM
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Grease Monkey
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I just did the same thing to my 55' 235 except I didn't do the balance. This isn't a high RPM engine that I'm building so I didn't see the advantage. I bored it .040 and milled the head .030 so it should be about 8:25/1 compression now. Using a dual Offy intake w/ twin 2bbl Carter/Weber design carbs per Tom Langdon's suggestion. Also have his HEI distributor and a Howards 3/4 cam. I haven't decided on what exhaust manifold to use but likely a Fenton. This should have decent power so next step will be to change the rear gearing to use it.

What surprised me was how much more it cost to rebuild this engine than a V8 Chevy. chevy

#35189 03/01/04 01:03 AM
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How much can you mill out of a 7:1 261 head?


Mahar
51 Fleetline, 261, 3,55:1
94 Opel Omega 3,0
#35190 03/01/04 09:59 AM
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If you mill a 216-235-261 head .100" it will increase the C.R. about one point-from 7.00 to 8.00.This also requires sinking the intake valves deeper and shimming the springs.using spacers under the rocker arm stands also.


Gene Schneider

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