VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Rebuilt 216 first startup

Hello everyone.
I'm very close to performing the first engine start of a rebuilt 1940 216.
I would appreciate some insight on how to minimize problems and some do's and don'ts from you guys that have done this before.

I'm at the point where all I need to do is add fuel, hook up my instrument cluster, battery, and a few other things.

I would like to get it running soon so I can reinstall the front fenders (front cap).

Thanks!

Curt

Assuming everything was prelubed when the engine was assembled - make sure you've got oil in it and that the oil pressure comes up when you start it. Before you start it make sure it is timed to #1 and that the rocker arms are rough set - preferably somewhat loose (you can adjust them after you've checked for leaks or any other items you may have forgotten. I've done first startups on my '40 a lot of times. Give me a call if you want. I'm over in Shreveport at 318-798-0493. Retired, so I'm around the house pretty much.

I spin the engine over (with the spark plugs out) and oil in the pan for about 30 seconds or until the oil gauge shows pressure. With todays oil selection I would use 5W30 oil. Once the engine does run under its own power keep the speed up to abot 1500 RPM or more so as to sling the oil around.
Don't be surprised if it dosen't turn over when hot.

If you have a new camshaft, there is a procedure that must be followed to break it in.

Thanks the great advice Mike.
I'll definitely give you a call soon for any questions I may have.
I'll start double checking connections and get a basic checklist going.
I will make sure the timing is correct. I installed a new distributor so I want to make sure it's not mounted 180 degrees in the wrong direction. I used a good source on how to reinstall a distributor on the 216, but a timing light should confirm the #1 piston at TDC with the rotor in # 1 position. I'll review and study the electrical stuff for sure.

Chevgene's recommendation of turning the engine over for at least 30 seconds is a great and, I think, necessary step.

Thanks guys,
Curt

Safety First

There are a lot of things to watch carefully in a start-up besides all the other good advice above:

One can use an old distributer shaft to spin the oil pump with an electric drill. Its a good way to check your pushrod lubrication.
One can power the ignition directly off the battery and this eliminates any electrical shorts or problems that are dangerously hard to find in the heat of the moment.
Never underestimate the power of a very small volume of gasoline especially when pouring "a little" gas into a carb without an air cleaner. The chances of a backfire are high and I have seen severe facial and hand burns in such a case. Once its running quickly check your fuel lines for leaks which could be leaking under the vehicle.

Good Luck

As old216 said, there is a procedure to follow to break-in a new camshaft & followers. First of all, follow the advice given of removing your distributor and insert a tool to spin your oil pump around until you see pressure on the gauge.

Next, re-insert the distributor and get set the ignition timing correctly. You want to have the engine fire with a minimum of rotation. Once the engine is running, run it at a steady 2000 rpm for 20 minutes. to break in the cam.

During the cam break-in period, watch for leaks, noises and temperature. I normally let the engine cool down after the break-in and drain & re-fill the oil, just to make sure. Check the oil for any metal particles and/or any gas/water leaking into the oil.

If you do have new lifters and camshaft add some ZDDP breaking additive to the oil. Also mamy of the new cams and lifters (are imported) and I would continue to use an additive for ever.
Also Quaker State Defy oil has extra ZDDP.

All the above advice is right on and good.

As for me all I would do is squirt some Marvel Mystery oil on the rocker arms and crank it up. Oil pressure will come up well ahead of you doing any damage.

It is likely the temperature will come up above 180. That's normal. You want to check after the thermostat opens if you need to add some coolant. It will not hold over a half a top tank full at any time except cold.

make sure the distributer pointer is at 4 o'clock and the rotation is 1-5-3-6-2-4.

Good luck with it and I hope it runs like a Singer sowing machine.

Charlie

BTW: Have someone press the starter whilst you move the distributer back and forth in small increments until it cranks. Don't grind away for too long at a time.

Years ago when the mechanics in or shop did an overhaul job ( often a dozen a week) they just oiled the cylinder walls before installing the head, filled the crankcase, oiled the rocker arms ( some did) and started up the engine. In perhaps 20 seconds the oil is getting to all the loaded moving parts.

Agree with you Chevgene. I'd never seen it done any other way other than the way you describe it until I visited an engine remanufacture shop. The only difference was - they used white grease on the rods, mains and pistons instead of oil because they were afraid the engine might set for an excessive period of time befor being used. I overhauled my '40 with oil only 3 times and each time it ran for close to 100K miles before using excessive oil. Didn't do anything other than adjust the mains and rods until slightly over 400K miles.

I SAW guys using gobs of white grease oon the rod and main bearing that have only .001" clearence or less. Did more to stop oil flow than lubricate.

Thank you all for the great advise.

One question comes to mind. How do you know the engine is at 2000rpm for the camshaft break-in period?

Thanks,
Curt

Duly noted! Excellent safety points.

Curt

Just keep it at a fast idle. With 10-30 oil that should do it.

Gene,

Here are some test data on "Defy" oil:

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tor-oil-lab-test-and-wear-test-data.html

Ray W

2000 is just a generic number but if you have one, use a tachometer.
Considering your location and season I'd use SAE 30 HD with a bottle of Lucas type zdp additive or 20W-50 Mobile One Synthetic Motorcycle oil. The latter has so much zdp they can't sell it under the old name.

20W-50 should never be used in a splash lubricated engine.
The "thin" 5w-30 oil is more important than ZDDP. If fact too much ZDDP is harmful.
Those engine ran on oil wth no ZDDP and never had a problem.

I have used assembly lube which is made to provide lubrication for the moving parts of an engine until the oil can reach those parts. It thins with heat so will be washed out fairly quickly once the engine is running and oil flowing.

An example:
Lubriplate No. 105 Motor Assembly Grease
White Motor Assembly Grease

A smooth light-bodied grease that contains a zinc-oxide anti-wear additive made especially for motor assembly and engine rebuilding. This product prevents “dry start.” It provides necessary lubrication during initial startup before the motor oil has circulated, thereby preventing damage from scuffing, scoring, and friction. Protects freshly machined engine parts from rust and corrosion.

In my opinion it is far better than motor oil particularly if the engine is not started soon after assembly. It also contains zinc to protect the new surfaces.

Could someone refresh my mind as to the written word that says the cam is to be broken in at 2000 RPM? What year engine does this apply to?

I believe it originally applied to V-8 engines. On the straight 4 6, and 8 the cam is right along side of the crankshaft and gets plenty of oil thrown on it.
ZDDP only "works" when oil and metal it hot. It dosen't stick to cold metal. Also it only works if the oil film is broken and there is metal to metal contact.
Chevrolet sold the camshaft break-in oil as far back as 1957 and said it should be used when ever a new cam (or engine) is installed. That being said we never replaced cams on 6 Cyl. engines, just V-8's

Go to www.widman.biz for one of the best articles on oil and ZDDP. Long but worth reading.

Kinda tuff readin there Gene ???????

Curt,

This is the way our good-old-boys here in NC determine the revolutions of an old Chevrolet 216 engine. Kind of simple actually. Ok here goes (pay close attention):

We take a a bottle of white shoe polish and us the applicator to paint the tip of each fan blade. Not much just enough to see the tip as it comes around in its circular motion when the engine is running. (whee)

Then we crank the engine. (with me so far?)

Then with all of us somewhat "four sheets to the wind" (as we usually are upon the start-up of a shade-tree overhaul it being a celebration and all as in the birth of a new batch of coon-hounds, we select four of the soberest of the gang to count the tips of the fan blades as the engine is steadily revved up in increments.

At each increment the engine is held steady until the count is collected by the head analytical technician or chief potentate whichever is less glassy-eyed.

The four counts are then divided by four and we get the result. 2400 divided by 4 +600 RPM. (Still with me?)

When the increment reaches the 8000 counts of the fan blade tips and the division produces the desired 2000 RPM. We hoot and holler. And, pass the jug once more.

Now whilst we do have a mandatory school system here in NC of having to be in school until the age of 16 our cyphering is somewhat far superior to the rest of the US of A. So you may have to hire some folks to come down there and do the counting and division. Not a problem since you're right next door to Mississippi.

You're welcome,
Charlie

Charlie,your a hoot,some times you just make my day