VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 Head gasket

I am replacing the head on my 23 roadster with a 28 head after skimming/crack testing. I have obtained a NOS gasket, which is in good condition.
Question- Would you advise using gunk on the gasket, or just a smear of grease and pull down?

If the head and block are flat, you shouldn't need anything on the gasket. Put it on clean and dry and torque the head in even sequence. If reusing head bolts , torque to 5 psi below spec. Old head bolts are known to snap. The filling station sells new replacement head bolts. Good luck with your project.

Try using some old thick silver frost enamel paint(drain as much of the oil base carrier off til you end up with a silver sludge) as a sealant.A thin coat on the block,let it just surface dry,place the head gasket on the block(guide studs are helpful when doing this)then a thin coat on the gasket face that contacts the head,again let it just tack dry.It'll fill in any voids on either the head or block face,even though you've had the head skimmed.
Been using this on both my '28 truck engine and my '29 Olds even when using a new gasket.Never had a leak.

I can second CJP's 29 comments from experience.

Firstly the silver frost sludge works a treat, and converting to studs, the way to go.

Did both on my 28 when I changed the head in 2012, no problems since.

Regards

Ray

Sounds like good advice guys- thanks for the responses.
Steve

I use Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket Hi-Temp Sealant. Coat both sides of the gasket and install/torque. Have been using for years and highly recommend.

I agree on the Permatex for coating a headgasket. Did you know that Chevrolet says you can use a headgasket (4-cylinder) 5 times. To do this I assumed you would use axle grease to coat the headgasket each time.

That's fascinating- I guess the gasket was a complex thing, and they wanted to re- cycle them even if you needed to even things out with some axle grease!
The suggestion of the Permatex copper spray sounds great.
I will press on and replace the head.

My comment on the re-use of the headgaskets made the assumption they were using the copper gasket with the asbestos as the filler material.

During my trade training, years ago, we were told that using grease was not a good idea as it created air pockets. As a result, I've never used it but I have used aluminium (aluminum) paint.

Regards
Al

A cylinder head gasket is made to fill the imperfections between the cyl block and the cylinder head. To quote a 1932 fitzgerald gasket guide, re-using cyl head gaskets is 'PENNY WISE AND POUND FOOLISH '. The are designed to COMPRESS TO FILL THE IMPERFECTIONS. Multiple re-use is not recommended.

Permatex spray or K&W copper coat assists in filling microscopic scratches in the surfaces.

Aluminum paint was used on steel cyl head gaskets when used with either aluminum cyl heads or blocks

Brand new cylinder head bolts or studs should be used to guard against possible fatigue or over stretch in the head bolts, leading to failure to the head gasket.

The torque sequence should be done in a spiral design starting at the center and working outward.

THE GASKET KING
mike lynch

So in other words,Australians or New Zealanders know nothing about Chev 4 cyl's?Don't know why I bother posting imformation based on personal experience on this site.

After reading all the replies, I just thought I would put my 2 cents worth in as no one mentioned the most important thing to do when changing a copper or steel sandwich head gasket. That is to re-torque the cylinder head bolts in the same sequence as they were originally torqued down once the engine is warmed up to operation temperature before the engine cools down. This procedure sets the head gasket. Failure to do this will usually result in compression leakage past the fire ring into the coolant port or hole in the cylinder head and block. It will also cause blown head gasket problems between cylinders. As I sell engine, transmission and differential gaskets for a living and had worked as a heavy truck technician for over 30 plus years, I am in the know about this.

Most problems with head bolt breakage is cause by corrosion at the top of the threaded area or just under the head of the bolt.
Regards Bob@marxparts

Folks just food for thought. Has anyone ever taken a factory assembled engine apart and found Permatex spray, any kind of paint, or grease on the head gasket or engine block. If you have, then by all means apply it upon reassembly. Otherwise; if the factory wouldn't use it then why would anyone else??????

Message for THE GASKET KING

I respect your opinion, but would also expect you to give some credit to the opinions of others.

I tried the silver frost "sludge" on my 28 Chev in 2012, with complete success.

Just because someone else has had success with a process that you are not in agreement with, does not mean you should dismiss it outright.

Just the thoughts of another Chev 4 owner from down under, who shares the same thoughts as CJP'S 29.

Then, we only have a combined experience of over 70 years working on these old bangers?

Regards

Ray

While in general I agree with your logic in keeping cars as original as possible and when it makes sense, duplicate the original process used in manufacturing. However, these engines are now over 90 years old and technology has evolved over time that many feel it is prudent to make changes to the original process. One of the great things about this hobby is one is free to do as they please because each car is ones own personal journey. Personally I think Ray and Mike are both correct in their process. While the product they use is different, it serves the same basic function to seal minute imperfections in the 2 machined surfaces. But as I stated before, we are all free to do what we want and if one wants to install the gasket on clean dry surfaces, then by all means do so as that is a personal choice and is just as right as the others. Just my .02 cents from someone in the Aerospace MRO business for over 35 years...

well said Golden Warrior,

You summed it up perfectly.

Cheers

Nobody was dissing your methods of installing cylinder head gaskets, I was simply stating that in 1932 what gasket manufacturers like Fitzgerald USA were doing and RECOMMENDING as THEIR recommendations for installing head gaskets.

I said they used aluminum paint on certain head gaskets that were to be used with aluminum cylinder heads or heads and blocks.

Do you know why that is ?????????????

They also discussed the use of re-using head gaskets " penny wise pound foolish " as quoted from the 1932 fitzgerald gasket guide. I WILL NOT DISCUSS THAT METHOD and why.

I clearly stated in my post about torqueing the head studs/bolts starting in the center and swirling outward . I neglected to state to re-torque them after being warmed up. Bad MIKEY !

If your happy with your SILVER FROST SLUDGE coating, great. But there are others out there like me who continue to stick to what I know and whats recommended from the gasket manufacturers.

You made your recommendation and Ray and I stated differing opinions.

Ya need to take a CHILL PILL AND CALM DOWN.

mike lynch
THE GASKET KING 1975=== 1990

Wow!
I only asked for a bit of advice about a gasket!
I'm reasonably sure that all the advice given is proven by experience, and thank you all for your good advice.
The approach I intend to take is to divide the gasket into four areas and apply grease, aluminium sludge, modern gasket seal and leave an area dry.
That should nail it.
Steve

You want to back off with the caps lock key too sunshine,you're not talking to a green Chev 4 owner!Have a "chill pill" yourself
mate

Well mate, seeing as how New Zealand all blacks just thumped you Auzzies royally in rugby, I can see why your so upset .

Have a nice day..............mike

I have not one iota of interest in who won the Rugby League game,mate.Learn to spell too,it's Aussie's-mate.

This thread has lost it's purpose.

It is now locked.