Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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doneast Offline OP
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Well the 33 has been a series of challenges. Those who have been following my renovation have been great help and encouragement.The flywheel mixup could have a solution.HOWEVER I went out to work on the car this a.m. and thought I'd turn over the engine once again to keep everything moving. I could not crank the engine over with the crank. So I greatly increased the leverage to see if the engine would turn over. It did but was very hard and uneven. Here is where I am at the moment. A friend has a V6 Chevy small suburban, or what ever you call it". He will give me the complete car for very little. I can change the 33 to a V6 powered Rat Rod for a lot less hassle. Some of you out there will think I've sold out. But I need to move in a positive direction. Unless there is someone out there who wants to buy me out to keep the car original. Thanks for listening. Don

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Major bummer!

I suspect the V6 conversion will add a whole lot of complications beyond just dealing with the engine.

How about dropping in a more modern ('54?) 235 inline 6? Here is an article about this conversion:

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engine_swap_216.htm

Hope this helps. Dean



Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Don... I'll throw out a personal opinion here, but keep in mind it is only my own personal opinion and is not meant to judge the look or work of your car, which I have not even seen yet. I know there are others around that will think you are a "sell out" in your own words... but there are also many of us that are able to appreciate a well built street rod as well.

Here's my opinion... Don't do the V-6 swap. You'll never be happy with the result you get. Even if you enjoy the traditional rod or "rat rod" look, a V-6 will just put you in a position where you'll wish you did it another way later. The couple hundred of bucks you save now will not be noticed a year or two down the road when it comes time to enjoy driving and showing the car. There are so many better and cheap alternatives that would keep your car period correct, or at least more interesting to check out at a local cruise night. How about a later Straight 6 out of a mid '50's/ early '60's Chevy? They are always easy to find on Craigslist or Kijiji. Street Rodder's give them away for next to nothing, and with a few period correct speed parts, make good little motors. How about a late '50's/ early 60's 265/283/327 small block? Do it up with a correct period look and have a conversation piece. I've NEVER been to a cruise night were anyone had a '90's V6 in a 1930's car and it was a conversation piece. That said, "selling out" isn't about doing what makes others happy, it's about what makes you happy. Decide if opening your hood to a V6 is going to do it for you. If you do go the V6 route, don't bring it up on the H.A.M.B. site... They'll flame you over there!


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Now that you already almost have your car fixed is no time to give it up. Don't forget part of the hobby is getting to know your car, finding needed parts, and fixing those that need fixing. you are just frustrated and looking for a retreat. your engine did not fail sitting in your garage not running.


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Your car's frame will not support a V6. It will twist! You will have to place a heaver frame if you go to a V motor. I use to twist them in the 50's in my rod's.

This is a hobby. It takes a lot of patience. I would back off for a while and let yourself cool off. After all you don't need to get in it tomorrow and go to work!

There is nothing like motoring down the road with the original sound of that engine in there! That true feel of 1933 under you.

I hope you succeed in getting that old gal on the road. Best of luck.


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doneast Offline OP
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Terrill, yes I will have to reinforce the frame with the V6 motor. Thanks to all for the support and ideas. Yes I'm very disappointed for now. But I don't know if I want to go through the work of fighting with the old gal as she sits. I have a 1968 Ford F100 4x4 that I put the engine and etc. from a 1993 big Bronco 10 years ago. It has been so reliable with the modern engine and the computer doubled my mileage for the old straight 6 that came in the truck. The success of that exchange is weighing heavily on me at the moment. Don't let the last statement stop any of you from weighing in on this conundrum.

patience, yes I've been working off and on on this project for 15+ years.

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It would help if you gave us a little history of what you know about the engine. Was it running when you bought the car? How long has it been since it last ran? An engine that has sat a long time will be tight. Pull the plugs and put in some Marvel Mystery Oil or a comparable product and give it a couple turns and then let it sit overnight. Turn it over again by hand still with the plugs out to see if it is getting looser. If there are no strange noises when turning then I think once started it will loosen up and be ok. That of course depends on what condition it was in when last running. An engine rebuild is almost always part of restoring an old car. A v-6 will add no value to the car and probably reduce it. A v-8 on the other hand can add quite a bit of value, but the cost of building a first class rod is quite pricy. I would first determine what the actual engine condition is rather than going a different route.


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Every owner gets to control the destiny of their vintage car or truck. An owner of a 1940 Chevy coupe who lived just a few miles from me had an all original untouched great running original 1940 coupe. He decided that he wanted a "modern" engine so that it would be dependable, go anywhere, etc., etc. His choice was a V-6 GM engine. Most everyone who knew him said WHY a V-6? He decided to go ahead with the V-6 transplant. Unfortunately for him, he liked the modification, but everytime he drove to a local car show, his V-6 coupe did not get noticed by the street rod gang and the original engine guys weren't interested in a V-6 engine either.
Your car is your property and it is your decision. I vote for an original engine or if you must, pick another year in-line Chevy 6.

dtm


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If you can't figure out how to fix your "simple six" how are you going to figure out how to install a different engine and it will require a completely different driveline, brakes and steering.?


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Don
As mentioned earlier the engine being stiff doesnt necessarily mean it is dead. Take the plugs out drop some mmo or atf+acetone (don't need a lot) in each cylinder and give it a turn each time you walk past it.
Before you attempt to start it though be best to lift the rocker cover so you can verify all valves are operating and not sticking.
Tony


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doneast Offline OP
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Thanks, I see if I can get her loosened up.
Don

I know how to do the necessary things to put the other engine and etc. I can even box the frame etc. to make the car stronger.

Thanks again for everyone's help and support.

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doneast Offline OP
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The Toolman, good points. Thanks.
Don

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Don, It is possible the original engine turned hard and uneven because some of the valves are stuck. If that is the case and you cranked it you may have some bent push rods. This is not a real hard thing to fix.
Good luck in whatever you decide.


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Maybe your original engine turns over with difficulty and unevenness because it has good compression on all six cylinders, like all engines are supposed to have.


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doneast Offline OP
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Beatles, "WITH A LITTLE HELP FROM MY FRIENDS" The 33 engine is free. With all the suggestion I decided to make a list and go over everything again.
Sticky lifters, stuck valve, lube everything again cylinders, valve lifters, make sure valves do not stic. etc. Check the started again. On close examination it looked like the clearance between the end of the Bendix collar and the ring gear were too close. Take the starter out and try the crank. It turned. After much jumping up and down and making explanations I realized what had happened. The "wrong" ring gear must have a greater diameter that the correct flywheel. I'll check this when I get the replacement flywheel. I have found a person in Colorado who has one. Jump up and down again.
Bottom Line thanks to all
Don

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Major congrats!!!!! yay

Quote
On close examination it looked like the clearance between the end of the Bendix collar and the ring gear were too close.


AND, great sleuthing.

To quote another song, "Oh happy day!"

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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doneast Offline OP
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Thanks Dean, This means she stays original.

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Glad to hear that you found the problem!


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doneast Offline OP
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Thanks Ed.
Don

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Here is the number of the flywheel that is in my car. Anyone know what car this should fit?
837243
Don

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0.666 FLYWHEEL
29-30 836362 836363
31-32 836617 836363
32-33 ex CC 837043 354663
34-35 ex DC EA 837243 837242
34-35 ex DC EA 837243 837484
35-36 837243 836014


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doneast Offline OP
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Thanks Joe.
Don


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