Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#348673 08/04/15 10:23 PM
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badsix Offline OP
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Gentlemen, i'm trying to remove the front springs on my 31 pickup, but I can't get the front hanger pin out. will it hurt the spring if I heat the end of it? i'm going to try an air hammer on the end first to see if I can shake it lose. also were would I look for new shackle plates.
thanks Jay D.

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badsix #348679 08/04/15 10:54 PM
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The pin shank is splined as it the front mount. It is a tight fit. Try a larger hammer, air hammer with the nut loosened flat to the end of the pin.


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Chipper #348681 08/04/15 11:12 PM
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badsix Offline OP
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THANKS it came out easy when I did it right I was trying to unscrew it I bet the other side will be easier
Jay D.

badsix #348711 08/05/15 01:28 PM
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For reference, no matter WHICH side you start with, THE OTHER SIDE will always be easier!!!
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I could never figure out why GM used Hex Head pins for front and rear spring bushing. I tried everything to loosen my rear pin a few years back, to no avail, finally went on VCCA and was told to just tap it out! Duh, took about 3 seconds! Ah the things you learn here.

Gunsmoke #348762 08/06/15 02:24 AM
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Ya, I think that most dudes try to unscrew the spring bushing pins instead of tapping them out. Since the shanks of the pins have serrations, Kent-Moore made a special tool to press out the pins.

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Gunsmoke #348770 08/06/15 09:02 AM
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I think the use of hex-head pins may have to do with installing them. The supports (hangers) and spring eyes don't always line up so spinning the pins clockwise until they get started in the far side of the support helps. Once the serrations get to the near side of the spring support (hanger) then you need to stop rotating or rotate only to align the serrations with the grooves in the support. Sometimes pushing the pins takes quite a little force if the serrations don't all line up with the grooves in the hanger.


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