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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 57
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 57 |
Changing to a higher gear in my 39 is a must,being pushed in traffic needs to end. I have changed engines,transmissions and many other things but have never did anything with a rear end and would like an opinion on whether or not if I should run the other way and let the pro's do it.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
Depends on how you are changing the rear end....exchange complete torque tube and carrier. Easy
Change ring gear and pinion only. A little more complicated.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863 |
would like an opinion on whether or not if I should run the other way and let the pro's do it. It might be easier for you if you let the professionals change out your rear end. Sometimes changing out a rear end can be a nightmare, especially if you have never done it before.   
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 57
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 57 |
Thank you guy's those answers are exactly what I was looking for.Like you say if I found every thing complete I could do it.
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,019 Likes: 3
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,019 Likes: 3 |
Hello 39chevbuisness,
I purchased a complete rear from a '37 Master (3:73 gears).
Pulled the axles and the torque tube / gear combo from my '37 MD (4:22).
Because I had already "adjusted" the rear differential saddles, I didn't want to pull the entire rear differential. Pulled the axles and torque tube / gear combo from the purchased rear and installed the torque tube / gear combo into me rear differential. It is a pretty straight forward install. (Follow the manual for rear differential disassembly)
Remove all the old gaskets and be sure the surfaces are clean. Be sure the rear cover bolt holes are clean ( I used brake clean spray) as they are a thru hole to the gear lube. When you install the cover, add a new gasket, add sealant to the threads of the bolts.
Where the torque tube bolts to the rear differential, add a thin layer of sealant, then the new gasket, then a thin layer of sealant to the gasket, then add a small bead of sealant around the studs. This should eliminate any gear lube leaks in this area.
As long as you have the room, follow basic safety procedures (use of jacks and placement of jack stands), it's a job you can perform.
Dave
old cars are meant to be driven !!
VCCA # 047832
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 822
ChatMaster - 750
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ChatMaster - 750
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 822 |
39chevbusiness, Don't let the naysayers discourage you. In this article I describe how I did it in my '36 PU, a vastly more complex project than yours would be: https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/334876/1936_Chevy_3.55_rear_gear_convI am a geologist with no professional experience in auto mechanics, machining or welding and the article describes the steps that got the job done right here at home, with photos. The highway friendly 3.55 gears are a hugely worthwhile improvement in interior noise level and improved fuel economy and a 17% improvement in cruising speed. If you have any questions about the process I'd by glad to try to help. Ray W raywaldbaum@gmail.com
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