Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Oct 2014
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Gustave Offline OP
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Hello; I am going to start the replacement of the water pump on my 1941 Master Deluxe, all original 216. Are there any tips or optional things I should do when replacing the pump. I did a topic search on this subject first, but didn't turn up anything. I have done water pumps in the past, but never on anything this old.
Thanks.....
Regards, Gus.
1941 Chevrolet Master Deluxe. 216 six, 43,400 all original miles.

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From what I have learned on my '38:

Life is much easier when the radiator is out before starting any work on the pump. Even easier when the entire nose is removed.

Be sure the new pump's pulley groove width matches the groove on your crankshaft pulley before installing.

Be sure the new pump's pulley is aligned with the generator and crankshaft after installing.

Don't mount the thermostat upside down. Will happen if you haven't had your coffee two hours earlier.

Get extra gaskets to replace the new ones after you realize your mistakes. They are cheap and easy to get.

When using screw-type hose clamps, be sure the slotted screws are positioned so you can easily reach them from the side about an hour after you see a slight leak.

Don't reuse any old hoses that have gunk inside them.


~Jim

'38 Master Deluxe 2-Dr

*Disclaimer*...All technical advice given is for entertainment value only, and is not to be taken seriously...
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ChatMaster - 6,000
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Gus, in addition to what Jim has suggested, you may want to consider the following{

a. A new gasket may have come with your new pump. If not, just get some gasket material and with a small ball-peen hammer it is easy to tap out a new one. Just cut the material the same as the old one and then use the ball-peen to cut out the holes for water flow and the bolts and the edges. Piece of cake.

b. If your hoses are in good shape, just clean the inside surfaces and before putting them back on, coat them with a thin bit of Indian Head shellac.

c. Tighten the fan belt to where it is stiff but with a little bend when you press your hand against it. (with it not running)

d. Save the old pump for a core or maybe a new repair kit. I have never done the kit thing but I don't see where one can go wrong with it. Some have, though.

e. You don't have to take the outlet off to put the pump on. Nor do you have to take the radiator out. Taking the fan off will make the exchange a little more easier, though. Just four small bolts (7/16 I think) and you can take it off.

f. 41s are easy to work on. Thank goodness you have one.

I assume your old pump is leaking. That is almost the only reason to ever change one out. Of course, if you are doing a engine rebuild or overhaul, etc, I would install a new one.

Good luck with it. That is a mechanical job that is a lot of fun to do under good conditions. Get under some shade and a radio tuned to your favorite station, cold water handy, and get to it. Take your time. It ain't rocket science.
Charliecomputer

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Grease Monkey
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I just replaced the water pump on my 41 Special Deluxe. It was a pretty straight forward simple change out. No need to remove the radiator or anything else on the front end. I just removed the fan blade, lower radiator hose, heater hose, generator belt and removed the 4 bolts holding the pump on the front of the block. Plenty of room to maneuver things around and get the job done.

Going back in was just reverse order of removal. The gasket I put on the water pump with Aviation Form-a-gasket which you could get at the local auto parts store as well. I like it because I never had anything leak when I use it and it does a great job of holding the gasket in place until you get the bolts started.

Not sure if you have the new water pump yet or not, but I found a brand new water pump at O'Reillys Auto Parts with a lifetime warranty for $56.00 and they were able to have it in their store within an hour of me calling them.

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Hi Gus, I always put a piece of cardboard up against the face of the radiator cooling surface so I don't bump it. If you bump it with your hand you may cut yourself. If you bump it with a tool, or the fan, or the pump you may dent a couple of fins on the cooling surface and cosmetically ruin the pattern of the fins. You should also follow a good torque sequence using about 35 pounds of torque. I do not remember if some of the bolts go into the head water jacket? The bolts that might enter the water jack should have a little sealant on their threads.

Good luck, Mike


Mike 41 Chevy
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Ok, guys, I get it...the '41's water pump is easier to work on than the '38....still not enough to convince me to get a '41... noevil


~Jim

'38 Master Deluxe 2-Dr

*Disclaimer*...All technical advice given is for entertainment value only, and is not to be taken seriously...
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ChatMaster - 6,000
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jim,

That right there is a mighty sad statement. Is too. Such defiance and willingness to ignore your better knowledge and best interests reminds me of some politicians.

Why some of you 38/38ers are willing to fall on your sword in defense of your cars makes me think of another misguided group - 47/48 Fleetliners. Pity. Agrin

Just funning you, bike Don't take any offense.

Charlie computer

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Posts: 92
Gustave Offline OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Posts: 92
Thanks to everyone who replied to my posting. My good friend Mike and I completed the project today and all,of your hints and suggestions made this a sure success. The VCCA is a great organization and I am pleased to be associated with it. My special thanks to Chevy Gene and his vast knowledge of the Chevrolet cars.
Regards,
Gus. 1941 Chevrolet Master Deluxe.


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