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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 173
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 173 |
I have the cone clutch out as it is getting relined with new leather. Should I get the cone plate painted or not? I have heard that Chevrolet both painted some and others not. My 1917 was not painted and right now I am leaning toward not painting. But, I thought for rust purpose's to paint it. The car is an older restoration. Just wondering what your guy's thoughts are on this who have had new leather done on the cone clutch. Thanks for any input.
Cheers, Gary
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 305
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 305 |
I painted mine black. I don't see where having it painted will cause any issues but it's your call. I don't like rust on parts of the car, but it will have a thin coating of oil once you drive it for a while.
Chris
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 234 Likes: 4
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 234 Likes: 4 |
As I relined the cone clutch with new leather eight years ago I saw not a trace of paint on it. Not much rust either. So I didn't paint it. As Chris says, "it will have a thin coating of oil once you drive it for a while". My guess is that most of the oil comes from the crankcase, if the crank shaft on 1917 model has the same hole (channel) in the rear end as it has on later models.
If you want a better protection against rust, and want to preserve the unpainted look I recommend a thin coat of linseed oil.
Per-Åke Larsson
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,418
ChatMaster - 2,000
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ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,418 |
I have seen several clutch cones to 490s but cannot remember anyone painted. I do not see any reason for any painting as the neat foot oil on the leather and some oil/stain coming from the engine/driveline parts will preserve the metal quite perfect. And if you have trouble with uncoupling the gear shift completely be aware you can adjust the clutching pedal by loosing the bolt/nut halfway down from thee top, move the pedal somewhat backwards and fasten the system again. Unfortunately no explanation to this on page 40, fig 33 in "Instructions for operating and care of model Four-Ninety motor cars.
Solan G, # 32797
Take advantage in your hobby by being member of VCCA!
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 173
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 173 |
While I had the rear end removed from the leaf springs while removing the clutch, I noticed square plugs (like pipe plugs) in the rear bottom of the seat springs. The seat springs can move on the rear axle with the suspension going down the road. I removed the plugs, which are the same thread as zerk fittings. It appears to me that this should be greased. I didn't see any mention of this on the lubrication chart. I put in the zerk fittings and greased both seat springs. Not sure if this will aid in a smoother ride, but it will minimize wear on the seats and rear axle. I just got the clutch back and that will hopefully be going back in this weekend. Just thought I would share this with you guys.
Cheers, Gary
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 173
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 173 |
Well, the clutch is in and I have put a few miles on it since putting it back together. The new leather is doing very well now that it is breaking in. Bob Knaak did an outstanding job relining the clutch! I highly recommend him if you are planing to do your our clutch job. The clutch hub tool that you make per the instructions in the manual works incredibly well, but the manual did not state exactly how you line up the pin that you knock out through the hole in the hub. That took a little thinking, but you can turn the slotted pipe that you made while the clutch spring is compressed with channel locks to line up the hole in the hub with the pin that you knock out and it comes right out. Then after reinstalling the pin turn the slotted pipe so the holes and pin are offset again to keep it locked in. A very ingenious setup by the Chevrolet Engineers! I, also recommend that before putting the clutch back in that you clean the flywheel good and then apply neatsfoot oil to the flywheel. I believe this aided seating the new clutch leather and did not notice any slipping once driving. Another interesting detail I found after cleaning up parts while doing the clutch is, on the clutch collar the plate on top has a hole that you put some oil through to keep it oiled. This plate is stamped "Chevrolet Motor Co. Patented Nov. 3, 1914" right next to the oil hole. Obviously, a nice piece of early Chevrolet history! I will try to get a picture posted soon. I couldn't get the iPhone to cut and paste on here. Hope this was of help to someone.
Cheers, Gary
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