VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Electrical - 6 volt Starter--local fix or buy rebuilt?

I am(was) under the assumption that using a local, established starter/generator repair shop is a better idea than buying a replacement rebuilt generator. None of my local parts store can order one for my 50 chevy fleetline. I know the definition of rebuilt differs from vendor to vendor. My local guy (who has a reputation of doing only quality work) chose to "put a block of wood against the casing to stop the field coils from shorting out". You can quess the outcome of that piece of ---- work. The hassel of core shipment and all eats me alive. Is there a prefered vendor. Or should I go a couple of counties away where the guy tells me that there is usually not much wrong with these old starters and he fixes only what is wrong because the cost of new parts is high and not needed. He said he will wrap the field coils with paper the way they are supposed to be. Any thoughts, reccomendations or suggestions?

I was having starting problems on our 74 Nova. Took the starter to a repair shop that has been in town many years for repair. Still had the problem. Took the car to a local garage to see if they could find the problem. They said the starter had a dead spot in it.

Replaced the starter with a rebuilt one from NAPA. Problem solved. No problem the last two years.

Do what you think best.

Yes, Sir. I already called NAPA. They claimed not to have one available. I know their parts, and they have a 1 year quarantee on their starter.

Perhaps it was just "not available" at their store. Did you ask if they could order one in? Local vendors are only as good as their reputation and how you ask them to rebuild your unit. You can have them replace ALL wearing parts or just the ones that are not serviceable. If your armature or fields are junk then you are probably better off with a Napa or other vendor that does exchanges. The price most likely will be fixed and not vary depending on the condition of yours, other than it will need to be a rebuildable unit not damaged by fire or rust.

Back Roads and Steve: I ask my local Napa guy if he could check further. No! It's not in the book, he said. I am a guy who doesn't take no for an answer very well. I went to napa online, typed 50 chevy starter in parts description and presto:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...Remfd-Standard/_/R-RSE2449657_0258219006
It looks like my starter, with the selenoid. The other local Napa store ordered it for 85.02 with a $.61 cor charge. LOL!
chevys of the 40,s are asking 120 for starter w/ I think $100 core charge. Just for starter. selenoid was almot another $100
The only concern I have is when I go to availibility page from above link is only showing truck compatability. Are truck and car 216 starters the same. What year did trucks go away from the step down starters.

There is a VCCA member that lists rebuilding starters in the "Services" column of the G&D.

Yes, thanks Steve. I may contact him about rebuilding my original, using it for a spare, just in case the Napa starter goes bad. But they offer a 3 year warranty.

Truck starter would not have a solenoid since it is a direct linkage to a mechanical switch on the starter. Fields and armatures are not that hard to find. I MIGHT have an armature. I think I also have a new solenoid.

Mike

Thanks Mike! I am using the Napa starter. It works good, but still drag starts if tried to start immediatly after shutting down when car is at operating temp. This was a feature I acquired with the car, 10K miles ago. Maybe someone can help with that problem.

The wires need to be "0" or "00" to carry the amps.

Try a 4/0 battery cable. I installed one on my car and it made a difference.

OK Thanks guys. I am willing to bet my ground cable is the original. The battery cable, I'm not sure. I'll check it out.

I assume you are talking about the battery cable. My cable is 1 guage. The manual calls for a 1 guage for a 49 passenger car. A 50 chevy calls for a 2 guage. Are you refering to 0 or 00 guage?

What do those numbers reference? My 50 chevy has a 1 guage battery cable.

4/0 equals a 0000 gauge battery cable. A 1 gauge or a 2 gauge is too small.

I'm hoping NAPA can make me one. Were starting problems common with these early Chevys, since the manual called for 1 guage, which I have on my 50 chevy now?

I had my 0000 battery cable made at a local truck electric shop and they had the cable in stock by the roll. They made a new 0000 cable by using the stock battery cable as a pattern for the correct length.

4/0 cable is in my opinion overkill. Most heavy duty trucks that used four six volt batterys used 2/0 cable. It is much easier to find 2/0 cable.

On my car the 4/0 cable cured my starting when hot problem, therefore, it was definitely not an overkill.

While it may have cured your problem I still think 2/0 cable is more than sufficient and easier to find.

In most applications a 2/0 cable will work just fine, but for my vehicle the 2/0 cable did not work as well as the 4/0 cable. The 4/0 cable can be usually found in a local welding supply store or a truck electrical shop. I had absolutely no problem finding the 4/0 cable in my local truck electrical repair shop and I live in a small town.

It wont hurt to replace the "earth" cable with the same cable, what goes in must come out.
Tony

I had NAPA make me a 1/0 cable, the heaviest they have. It is a vast improvement, but will still drag start a little, when warm and tried to start immediatley after shutdown, if I intentionally do something that deviates from normal starting procedure. Because of cost and it's high effeciency, I'll stick with my 1/0 for now, but will consider your ground cable replacement idea, Tony.