Peter,
Can you post the details of how the machinist did that job so those of us with home machine shops can do the same?
Decades ago one of my neighbors put a modern shaft/seal/bearing in a Model A Ford water pump with the same good results you got. I have a '36 Chevy water pump core I'd like to do that on.
Did you ever contact the guy in your part of the world who makes the 25w/25w halogen headlight bulbs? They really light up the road and my original '36 generator with a Peterson regulator handles them no sweat.
Ray W raywaldbaum@gmail.com
Hi there Ray,
old Bill used 2 vipon seals, which are the best that money can buy, one each side of the bush.
He removed the metal spring in the seals and replaced it with an " O " ring, to help keep constant pressure on the seal flange and shaft, His own little secret mod".
He had to machine out the old bushes and use a larger dia shaft to suit the modern seals.
He made 2 new bushes from a special oil impregnated bronze material, I cant remember the name. In normal manufacturing they use the same type of material , but it is steel and not bronze.
He said by using this bronze material, I would only have to grease it once every 100 years, so that was good enough for me! He also boiled the new bushes in light oil to give them a good impregnation before installing?
The bracket holding the pulley wheel was a press interference fit on the new shaft as was the impeller.
BTW, when the old graphite impregnated water seals were removed, he found 2 on the outside of the pump, that is, behind the brass adjusting nut. I had always thought that there was a seal on each side of the bearing bush...now I know for sure how it was set up originally? Also worth a mention behind the old seals was what looked like a lead ring or bush of some type, by the time it had been prised out it was a mangled mess and hard to see what its shape or purpose was?
regarding the 25w/25w halogen headlight bulbs, no such beast over here, cant find any information about them!
Peter
