VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1946-1948 1948 Engine Rebuild

Well - I mentioned months (!) ago that I would be rebuilding the engine in my '48 after I had a connecting rod go bad on the way to the Six Cylinder Tour last September. Now that this year's tour is fast approaching, I guess it's time!! I also figure this will give Charlie something new to watch in the 1946-48 Forum as his interest in jacks seems to be waning. Cousin Dave is going to be helping to make this happen and Wednesday is set for the day to pull the engine. Dave has convinced me that the one piece rear main seal modification developed by Tom Wolcott ('40 Tech Advisor) is the way to go, so we've actually been working on a different block in preparation for the engine rebuild/swap. Below are pictures of the '48 as she currently sits and the new block that's headed into the car.

I know you know this, but be careful with that 3 legged engine stand with a 216 on it. They can tip over real easy.

It looks like the block has been slightly decked and the cylinders have been bored out. What are the details on this block as we begin? How about you post a picture of the rear main area, so we can see what it looks like before the one piece rear main oil seal goes in.


dtm

Where can we find info about this one piece rear main seal ?

If you are using the same oil pan as was used when the rod burnt out I would check the oiling pattern.....A rod just doesn't burn out with out a reason.

I've heard their is a up-coming article to be in the G&D.

Gene - we have the gauge, so we'll check the nozzle pattern again before installing. There was absolutely no babbitt left on #2. It would be nice to figure out why!

Mr. Toolman - you want me to take the block off the engine stand to take a picture??? Okay...

The oiling article in an up-coming G&D may be my 216-early 235 article. If it is aiming the pipes was not included.
I always checked the aim by using low water pressure from a garden hose and see where the water is aimed. Also lets you konw if a line is obstructed.

Hello Chev Gene: I also like to use the original Kent Moore aiming nozzles with low water pressure. It is an easy procedure to verify that ALL of the nozzles are aimed in the correct direction and that they hit the target correctly. I use the original nozzle bending tool which was a part of the original kit. We will definitely be using the aiming tools for the new engine. I also want to use the Kent Moore tools on the old engine pan to see if that is a reason for the destruction of #2 rod.

dtm

Yes, correct thoughts.

Yesterday the engine came out of the car. Took Cousin Dave and I a couple hours to unbolt the remaining items and lift it out.

Best of luck!

Would like more pictures. Would like to see both sides as to exactly where the hoist chain is bolted to the motor/trans..etc....

Make sure to take pic of all the mods for the seal, in case Dave loses his.

Boy does that bring back memories!!!

Looks like fun. I'll be checking in on this one. Good luck with the rebuild process and can't wait to see a leak-free 216

Leak Free....ya,right???

The chains on the engine leveler were bolted to the threaded stud on the flywheel housing which holds the starter AND a bolt thru the hole in the engine block that is next to the generator mounting bracket bolts.


dtm

Ah, yes, it was the best of times, it was the worst of times. Hate to have to need to do that stuff, but also a lot of fun!

I still say that engine died because Cousin Dale ran it a few thousand miles on the interstates at 65 mph trying to keep up with Wildman - I mean Toolman - in his' 66 V-8. I was there many of those miles.

If he is going to run with the V8 he better change the ring and pinion.....that will let it run 65 with no problems.

Everyone is waiting for the "rest of the story"

Well - we're on hold at the moment. We're putting on the 52nd Central Meet next week in Hudson, Ohio so it's been busy. However, the bigger issue is that the rods, which were machined for insert bearings, and the crank are at the machine shop to fit the insert rod bearings to the crankshaft and to balance the pistons and rods. They're thinking a couple weeks, which really isn't a problem given the Central Meet schedule. We have been interested in the discussion on main bearing clearances. Gene is saying .001, while we were following the book and setting them at .002 to .003, which took one shim on each side. Will probably remove a shim.

The 1949-1953 shop manual says .001" to .003" for new bearings.
As soon as the "high spots" wear off you will have.002=.003"

Thanks, Gene. That's now the plan.

Gene: Sent you a PM

Dick

Sort of figured that was why we were not hearing anything. I guess that means I won't be seeing that 48 Conv at the meet !

This year or next year