VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 1940 - 216 Engine Disassembly

This weekend the head disassembly and inspection, measering of the block was on program.
Unfortunately, it is not as positive as I had imagined. The visual inspection was already nothing good guess. There was at 1.Cylinder pitting in the bore.

The other holes are without major damage, but the former cross-cut by honing is no longer visible.


With an indoor meter, I then measured all cylinders and registered the results in a Chart.
The basic dimension of the bore is 3 1/2 ", metric 88.900 mm. The manual says, if the hole is tapered or out of round must be honed. Should the deviation exceed 0.1mm, should be drilled and oversize pistons are installed.
Cylinder 1 suggests everything because it is wider than 0,165mm above the bottom. Measurement at 45 ° rotated, vary the deviations of 0.047 on 0.075 to 0.180 mm. That is not only conical, but also oval. The other cylinder would be here possibly still within the tolerance range, but by this pitting only Honing is no Option.
What to do, do not know yet. There must be researched first time what all the fun costs. Either everything from one source, or only drilling and honing and assemble themselves - of course without guarantee. At least the head and engine block have "Matching Numbers". So, 75 years of age and untouched!

As a next step, I then split the head completely. The exhaust valves look optically good, further digestion must here give measurement. What bothers me on the intake valves , is the non-visible contact with the valve seat. There must be also bright spots , like the outlet also - or I'm wrong ?



I also wonder about the caps on the intake valves. I can´t find them in the parts catalog, is that original?
Pictures and chart you can also see here, sorry only in german ;-)
https://1940specialdeluxe.wordpress.com/

Your website page looks great. When I went to it, my computer asked me if I wanted to translate your German text into English. I said yes and read the whole article in English. Life is good.

Great 1940. Keep us posted on your progress.

dtm

Yes, Google is our best Friend ;-) But sometimes the Translation is a little bit funny.

I also wonder about the caps on the intake valves. I can´t find them in the parts catalog, is that original?





Crankshaft and Bearings should not be in better Condition I mean, but that will show the next days.
Can you tell me something about Quality of the CHEVROLET Master Engine Kit from chevs? Which Parts are in this Kit? Where did you get your Engine Parts?
Crankshaft and Bearings should not be in better Condition I think, but that will show the next days.
Can someone tell me about Quality of the CHEVROLET Master Engine Kit from chevs? Which Parts are included? Where did you get your Engine Parts?

I think that your intake valves were just a bit too tight and were not touching the seats. The caps are aftermarket and keep oil from running down the valve shafts into the cylinders.

I love your '40! Hoping to have mine looking so nice some day!

The caps on the intake valves are not original. They are what we call aftermarket and were thought to prevent oil from running down the valve stem causing oil burning and smoking.

The rusted intake valves is caused by long periods of not being run and damp conditions.
I wouldn't worry about rust pits on the cylinder walls but would have the head tested for cracks.

good morning André,
I use english instead of our german mother tongue....
Let me say...in general your engine looks not bad at all. In my life I did see some engines much more bad and even they did run. So dont worry too much...my 1940 is garaged too at the moment. Not because of technical problems. Just because I have no time for. To work in two jobs at same time is hard. Mostly I *enjoy* a 7 days work week. And usually I dont need a car for my daily life and I dont like just to cruise around to waste gasoline for nothing. Maybe around june 19th I am travelling for work. If my way is maybe close to your town I will let you know before.

Best regards
Stefan

Andre
The pitting in the cylinder wall WILL do more damage, most likely caused by moisture entering the cylinder and settling on top of the piston.
The only way I know of to fix is to have the cylinder (preferably all cylinders) bored out and fit new pistons. I the boring goes too far oversize for available pistons the machine shop can fit sleeves to bring the cylinder diameter back to factory size.

The valve appears to have not been closing properly.

Tony

@RichardJ … checked the Valve Clearance last year (warm engine!). Was correct and I wonder about that all 6 intake valves should be too tight? Don’t know whether this is coming from this aftermarket covers?? They make no sense for me, because there are plastic Caps on the Valve shaft.

@Stefan … looks not bad? O.k. he isn´t cracked anywhere but from good condition miles away.

@Tony … that’s the way I would go. Next week will have a meeting in the engine shop. I will report on the progress

Andre,

I got all the parts for rebuilding my engine from Kanter Click.

You have three choices of part packages according to what your rebuild plan may be.

My machine shop was satisfied with the parts except for the springs on the valves (too weak) and the pushrods (two long). I could have returned the parts but I had them over a year before the shop tried to use them (shop not on a good rebuild schedule). My shop choose to use my originals.

Please search our old posts for my rebuild experiences especially information on my rear seal replacement. I recommend using only the original replacement seal. You can buy them occasionally on ebay or from a Canadian parts company, I also have a few on hand and might sell you a set.

To find my rebuild experiences search our posts using the Keyword Search Terms +engine +rebuild and the Display Name Mike Buller.

German's are great at managing details, and this is very important for a successful rebuild.

Best wishes, Mike

P.S. Just got back from a great 3 weeks in Germany. We survived two rail strikes, one forced us to ride a bus from Kassel to Leipzig. The driver talked most of the time to passengers in the front seats. On the autobahn he drove like a little old lady. In urban areas he drove like he was on the autobahn!! Saw only two American cars. A new Chevy Camero and a 1958 Buick. I did get to drive a BMW electric car. The owner had rented it for 6 weeks for about 500 Euro. Great acceleration, half hour recharge at a charging station, or 8 hours at home. Lots of automotive innovation (carbon fiber body, small turning radius, can park itself without assistance). It should be the next generation of automobile once the price is reasonable. This one cost about $50,000.
Saw an interesting quote on a bag a man was carrying, "less oil more courage."

"I wouldn't worry about rust pits on the cylinder walls but would have the head tested for cracks."

Alligator,

I'm no "Expert" but if I found a block in that condition I would rebore it to clean up the bores. Why assemble an engine with such obvious damage?

Since the head is off there is performance to be gained by blending the bowls (port area directly below the valves) to smooth the sharp angles. Airflow hates sharp angles. Many articles in automotive publications show that the best bang for the buck in porting street engines is in smoothing out obstructions to air flow in the port bowls. High quality aftermarket heads for current engines have very nicely blended bowls. Smooth airflow through the ports is not just a race concept, but benefits street performance also. Those old engines need all the performance they can get.

Ray W

Does anyone know the exact piston diameter and piston height (compression height)? How big is the piston pin diameter? Wants to look for alternative piston in Germany. Apparently fits the piston from Volvo B 20 engine with small adjustments. The engine I dismantle now completely and then I'll check the tolerances.

Alligator
I would only use pistons made to fit the engine you are repairing. It doesnt take much of a difference to cause major catastrophy, been there.

As Brino said if you can see the pitting in the cylinder wall get the lot bored and NEW pistons. If the pitting is deep the machine shop can fit dry sleeves and bore them to match the others.

Tony

Would like to use pistons who made fit to this engine,too. But must buy from Germany, don´t know the Quality. Shipping, Customs and Tax are very Expensive and sent back if faulty, isn´t an option.
So i look for Alternatives. Here is a very good machine shop who can make pistons fit. But Diameter and Compression Height must fit.
Now i found on EGGE Homepage Bore 3,5" and CH 2,25", so the Volvo Pistons doesn´t fit because they are to high for machining

If your are not boring the cylinders new pistons would not be necessary.

Hello!
The Opel Blitz & Admiral 3,6L engine is a germanized Chevy 216.
There are some seller in Germany that offers pistons. Maybe this will fit:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Opel-Blitz-K...DefaultDomain_77&hash=item1a00aa721f

Regards Tino

Hi Tino,
thanks for your Help. Know the Opel Pistons but the Diameter is with 91mm too big. Biggest oversize Boring from Chev is 90,932mm (3,58")and the CH doesn´t fit.
Pistons with the right Height and Diameter are allmost diesel and have to big pins :-(
Seems i have to buy in USA!

The piston pictured had a domed top, 1937-1940 Chevrolets had a dome top piston. The 1941-1953 216 requires a flat top piston. Also most European Chevrolet engines had the small bore "Cheata" engine so be careful.

Now its done, Motor is completely stripped. No way back



Most I wonder about the crankshaft. The first diameter is only 2,307", according to the 1940 Manual it has to be 2,684"



Whats wrong here, the manual?

None of the measurements match what I show in my manuals. Do you have any casting or stamped numbers from the crankshaft? Per the post above by Chevnut perhaps your engine is not of US manufacture or specs.

I would have some one remeasure the front main. Something is way off there.
The specified size for the front main stayed the same from 1937-1963.

Do the pistons have a flat top or domed top? Can't tell from the picture.

I think it would be best to first identify the engine by casting and/or stamped numbers on block and head.

The pistons are domed. Block has the right number 839132 and the block has the right number 838773

I just look at the picture to the crankshaft and think, these are not enough bearing points! There are only nine, where is the tenth?
In another picture the main bearing is then seen under the timing gear cover



I have instead the connecting rod bearing measured. I just wondered about the similar diameter. Will again remeasure.
Nevertheless, the diameter out of tolerance

Please tell me how to remove the oil filler, is this only pluged?

Use a block of wood and tap gently on the oil filler and it will come out. It is held in by friction and the clamp near the bottom. Looks like the clamp is already loose.

Bearing Points???
There four main bearing journals and six connecting rod bearing journals on a 216 engine.
Your engine has the correct - as per the pictures.