VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1949-1954 Pinon gear removal

Ok I give up, what next to tear this down further?

From my parts car, extra parts???

Do you have the shop manual? If not that would be my next step.

If you have a thin curved prybar get behind the gear and pry out.
Once it breaks loose will come out easier.
Also giving the gear a smack , driving it in, make help. Don't strike near the teeth.

Tap on the prop shaft using a brass hammer or a hardwood block on the shaft. My preference is a block of wood and a three pound hammer.

Thanks guys I have tried all these methods but not very aggressively

I'll give it another wack, but good to know I'm on the right track.

When I did mine years back that is the thing that gave me the most trouble and took the most time.....and I was laying under the car doing it.

When you have driven it out it will give you a good idea of the force needed to install it.

The fun part of the installation is keeping the fromt bearing and spacer in place.....packing the area with grease is the common way.

Are you doing the removal and re-installation of the gears ?

Just tearing down my parts car. My work in progress is at the mechanic's. He left me a voice mail that I could pick it up tomorrow after a complete re build of the rear end and drive shaft. Let's see that will make the entire drive train completely rebuilt from just behind the radiator fan blade to the rear end cover.

Well, that is good news. Sounds like you have all bases covered ..... and rebuilt, as well!

Large hammer and a 4 by 4 block of wood and maybe 5 good wacks and the drive shaft and piñon gear popped out.

On another note got my car back today and drove it about 3 miles down my gravel road. No doors, hood, or windshield and the heat from the engine kept me warm on this chilly day.
It seems to idle high but are the power glides always so jerky when shifting into gears?

If idle is fast it will bang when shifting into reverse or low. will be less harsh when going into drive.

Are all vacuum connections to the engine accounted for, including the modulator line ?

It doesn't really bang but it lunges forward as I pass D and L going into R
I feel like I'm on an antcy race horse in the starting blocks!

All vacumn lines hooked up

All are? Which one is this?

Although I do not understand your question here, the vacuum modulator is connected to engine vacuum, at the intake manifold, with a hard line tube. Info on modulator below.

You do have a steel line, going from the modulator, to the intake, correct ?

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/07trans/7_035.HTM

Fix your idle speed. If it is too high, adjust down. That will most likely fix your problem.

It is also a good idea to insure the vacuum line from manifold to modulator is there. Originally, as Bob stated, there was a hard steel line. I'm just using a long piece of vacuum hose, but upgrading to a steel line is on the "to do" list.

If you are in Park or neutral and shifting to reverse as you pass through Drive it should not even engauge unless you are going in slow motion. Drive also engages smoother (if the vacuum modulator is working) because when drive is engauged only the clutch pack is energized where as going to low a reverse a band in energized.

Yes steel line in place (it wasn't way back when after the mechanic got it running, so I ordered one thinking I didn't have all the new parts. I just cleaned out the trunk from this month or two ordeal of getting it running and guess what I found? The first vacumn line I bought that the mechanic missed in the foiled covered trunk!). So I have a spare?
So it sounds like the idle may be the issue. Now unfortunately I won't be able to check for a while as the generator was screeching like a owl off and on and after my 3 mike gravel road test run when I got home she was smoking. So I just pulled it and plan on dropping it off in town to be rebuilt. So it may be a week or so before its running again.

PS: I noticed the gas gauge isn't registering, sending unit in the tank? Or maybe a loose wire or ground?

Since this thread is about the pinion gear perhaps a new thread is in order for the gauge problem and that will help with future thread searches.

Ok pin in drive shaft is out and large nut is backed out what's the trick to remove pinon gear?

The pinion shaft is splined into the propeller shaft. I had to provide extreme assistance to get the pinion shaft out of the propeller shaft (brute strength and awkwardness with a pry bar). I do not remember exactly where I pried. If you've got the nut completely loose,while you've got it in the vise like you have, I'd use a short 2 x 4 and a mallet and apply a few sharp raps to the pinion gear and see if it won't release. I didn't have a vise so had to use a pry bar.