VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 worn starter switch in '32 ?

I'm trying to track down a weak cranking problem that happens mainly when the engine is hot. It gives a "grunt" but won't spin the engine and simply sounds like a weak battery BUT it's new and just load tested, starter was in the shop twice and tests fine although the switch wasn't inspected. Would anyone here see a problem with these copper switch contacts ? The two surfaces don't line up perfectly but maybe they aren't supposed to. Maybe the voltage isn't transferring adequately ? I'm looking for any weak links in the starting circuit.
I always attempt to start it with spark retarded. It' turns over okay when cold but takes 30 minutes or more of "rest" to crank again. Thank you.

The switch looks OK to me. I would just clean the contact surfaces and then check your cables.

Thanks,
The cables are good, all connections clean and shiny, including the ground to frame strap.
I even doubled up on the ground by clamping a heavy jumper cable from the negative battery post to the frame. Didn't help...

Run the ground to the engine.
Al

Take a close look at the size (diameter) of the cables you're using. Modern car 12Vcables are much smaller than 6V cables since it only takes half as much current to produce the same power. If you put 12V cables in a 6V car, the resistance is too high and it won't crank properly.

You should be looking for 00 gauge cables or heavier to have it work correctly.

There are a number of threads on this topic here on Chevy Chatter. Hope that helps.

All the Best, Chip

When you had the starter at the shop did they take it apart and inspect it or just bench test it? When I had the 30 it would not start hot but was fine cold, when I got the starter apart you could just barely see where the armature was starting to drag on the field coils. New bushings and brushes made it crank like It was 12 volts.
You may want to do voltage drop tests on all connections both positive and negative.

When taking the starter apart make sure all surfaces are rust and paint free that bolt together-- nose cone and end cap to the main barrel. The one I think made the most dif. was removing the paint between starter and flywheel housing. all the above made a big dif.in my 31's . Roger

I had that problem with my '37, took the starter back to the shop a couple of times, torn down and carefully inspected, everything perfect. BUT it wouldn't crank really well when hot. FINALLY found the problem. I had painted the engine and starter. Never gave a thought as to the starter grounding, it had two bolts into the flywheel housing, couldn't possibly be a bad ground. But when I used my angle grinder and cleaned the paint off the mating surfaces of the starter and flywheel housing, it cranks perfectly. So, don't overlook the possibility of poor grounding, especially if you painted the engine and starter.

That is great advice!

Appreciate the advice ! I'll be posting my results after I check the surfaces are paint free and verify my cables are 00. I did hit the starter with Rustoleum last winter and the positive cable doesn't look too robust

Charlie,
Putting the negative cable from the battery to the trans cover bolts is better than the chassis and acceptable now with the posts on the batteries no longer being where they used to be. RI Wiring has just the positive starter feed cable available also if yours is getting tired.

Really ? They have 00 ? I was going to RI Wiring tomorrow anyway to have them look at my directional switch. We suspect the silly polarity sensitive Taiwan flasher.
My negative is on the trans cover bolt. It's the old metal flat strap definitely showing some wear and tear.
Thanks...

RE: OO cable at a welding supply and doing your own ends works well..Maybe a little cheaper too.

I believe Tractor Supply Co. also has 00 cable.

I picked up 0000 cable at my local starter repair shop.

When I installed the R.I. Wiring harness that came with my car it came in various components. The main harness, ignition harness, aux. tailight harness, and the positive battery to starter wire. All were in separate bags and labeled. Not sure if they'll have one made up ready to go but they do make it.

Thanks Ted. I'lll give them a jingle before I go over. They're only 40 minutes away. Like others mentioned, there's always the welding supply or TSC store. Be interesting to see if that's the issue. It'll be nice not to always park on a hill.

For all those on the edge of their seats, after replacing both battery cables with 00 gauge and cleaning up the mating surfaces of the starter/engine, my engine appears to start fine cold or hot.
Pulling out the spark knob definitely helps too I've found. I believe I'm running a little too advanced since I still hear a knocking noise under load on hills, unless I pull out the knob and retard the spark, then she quiets down.
But, I'll save that for another post.