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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5 |
The manifold heat riser valve on my '50 Chevy, 216 engine is stuck. Fortunatly in a reasonably good position. How can I free this up. I have tried all manner of "Miracle" oils. The brass pin seems to be locked solid to the iron manifold. Too much force doesn't seem wise.
Anyone out there got an answer ???
Clive
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 11,162
ChatMaster - 10,000
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ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 11,162 |
oil it up real good with PB blaster or WD-40 and tap it easy on both ends of the shaft, side to side then on the counter wt. If it has one. and with patients you can get it working, just go slow and careful, get it working side to side then a little bit of rotation till it is freed up
Life's a long winding trail, love Jesus and ride a good horse!
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 63
ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 63 |
You may have better luck with the thermal wrench. First try a propane torch. Heat and cool in water for several cycles. Tap on the shaft as MM says. You need to get the water out of the rust. That will reduce volume of rust that locks the parts together. Propane may not have enough heat to penetrate to the inside rust. So carefully head with oxy/acetylene. Use broad tip and heat carefully. Also cool carefully as if you heat and cool to quickly or unevenly you can destroy the casting.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8 |
Clivem, these guys have given you the only ways I know of to loosen those valves. Once loose I would suggest lubricating the pin with some dry graphite. It will help stop it from siezing up again and allow smooth movement of the valve. Also, If you do have to use the tourch just wrap the manifiold in some firerglass insalation( After the cherry red heat has gone) it will slow the cooling down enouph that the casting will retain it's original strength.
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