VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1946-1948 Accepting suggestions for my 1947 engine swap.

Well - the engine went in today.

Well - almost all the way. Just two inches short. The thing that worried me has got me stuck.

The transmission is two inches from reaching the holes for the mounting bolts.

What do I need to do? I tried moving the rear wheel to no avail.

Want to finish the install tomorrow. Someone give me some miracle advice. As always, thanks. Another question - does the transmission need to be in gear or out of gear to make the correct link up?

It sounds as though you may not have the engine and tranny at the proper angle to line up. Is the car supported at the rear with stands under the axle or under the frame?

No - I have the car setting - all four tires - on concrete blocks.

The car is as level on the blocks as it would be if it were setting
on the concrete garage floor.

Thank you.

Perhaps one of our resident experts will chime in with some advice. I would prefer to see at least the rear supported by jackstands under the frame. First I think its safer and second it allows movement of the torque tube for alignment and the ability to rotate a wheel. Doesn't need to be much, just a shake back and forth while a second person applies a push/wiggle from the front.

It is very dangerous to use cement blocks to support the weight of the car. They can crack or crumble.....I would never get under a car supported with cement blocks.

Setting the record straight - The car is setting on four solid concrete blocks to keep it level. Under the axle in the rear I have a pair of

jack stands and in the front I have a pair of jack stands.

The engine went in today - had to take off the rear transmission housing to get the floppy universal to aline itself with the drive shaft. Got the rear mounts installed and the front mounts installed.

Not much more to do before it is rolled outside and fired up.

That is good news all the way around.

Hopefully, this update will be all you expected.

Treated correctly, the 235 will outlast all of us.

Got the antifreeze and oil into the car today.

Still a little work to be done.

Question: On the battery side of the engine I have two wires wrapped together with connectors. The one has the connector the size that goes to the coil. No Problem

The other has a connector about 7/16 - I am not able to remember where it came from on my 216 - but it appears to need to go somewhere.

Any ideas where that somewhere might be?

Thanks again.

id your 1947 still have a polarity reversing switch connected ....... the switch sat on top of the strateer and activated by the starter linkage.

Thanks - that came to mind but I was not sure.

Appreciate your help.

Well, today was to be the day I started the "beast." I call it the beast because that is what it has become.

Today I had just two things to do before I could start it.

Number 1 - Hook up the accelerator.
Of course, that did not work out in that the accelerator linkage that I have on hand is too short.

Number 2 - I decided to try to start it anyhow.
Of course, that did not work out in that I cannot get any gasoline past the fuel pump. It is a new pump with the gas line connected to the carb and the vacuum advance connected to the carb. The other two connectors from the fuel pump go to the windshield wipers and I can't recall where the other goes.

So another job for tomorrow.

Should you have any ideas on either subject please share your thoughts. This needs to be done.

Thanks!

Look at this link, it may assist you with your fuel pump/vacuum hose routing.
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/308050/

If I recall correctly, when converting from a 216 to a 235, the pivot point for the accelerator bellcrank is moved.

Read this step #4 from Patricks Antique Autos and Trucks in AZ.In this article, he lists the steps for converting from a 216 to a 235.

"4.Throttle linkage may need modifying if your block's bellcrank mount hole is further back (toward firewall). Easy ... some of the curve will need to be taken out of the accelerator rod. Squeeze it in a vise 'till it makes it's travel without rubbing the floor pan (as installed in the bellcrank, without return spring). When that's done, measure how much it needs shortening by bringing the whole linkage assemble to "full throttle". Simply cut that amount out of the slender part of the rod and re-weld. Done!"

Thank you - I have the fuel pump connected as per the previous message. Still no gas flow. Will check for possible plugged lines, etc.

The throttle situation is still a problem for me even with the explanation.

Will work on it in the morning.

Thanks again for imput.

Okay - I give up! Is there a secret I do not know about installing the fuel pump on a 235?

Had the fuel pump with the vacuum installed - all the right hook - ups but gas only to the pump with nothing going to the carb.

So, I changed to the old fuel pump that just pumps fuel. Same result.

Some information about having to hold up a rod when installing the pump. Others say that is for V8's only.

What am I missing?

When installing the pump you should feel pressure on the pump arm when lining up the mounting holes. If it goes into place without being compressed then it is not in correctly. Try compressing the arm on the pump that is off and you will determine which way it needs to be compressed to pump. The arm will need to be installed so that it rides on the cam and the pump pushed towards the engine under pressure to get it in position for bolting.

Assuming you have the distributor in place, crank the engine "A BIT" to rotate the camshaft, then try again, to install the pump.

You should feel the resistance on the fuel pump arm, as explained by Steve D.

Spent most of today trying to get gas past the fuel pump to the carb.

No luck:

Took the pump off and installed it as instructed by the last VCCA friend. Felt the pressure and felt sure it would be good.

Nothing!

Took the air hose and blew back through the line to the tank and found that the line to the tank was fine.

Checked all the lines running into the pump and from the pump were hooked up correctly.

What else?

Tomorrow I am going to run a line from the fuel pump to a coffee can to see if it is trying to pump gas.

Is it necessary to prime the pump or is the gas coming from the tank enough to get the pump working?

Thanks - this has become a real challenge.

If the lines and pump are dry sometimes it helps to pour about a shot glass of fuel directly into the carburetor throat....may have to do it two or three times.
Do this with the pump mounted and lines hooked up.

Thank you Gene.

Tried that to no avail. The engine will cough but not start because no gas is getting to the carburator from the fuel pump.

Going to give it the bucket test in the morning - to see if the pump will pull gasoline from the bucket.

I had the same problem on my 1938 Chevy. I blew air thru the line and it wasnt pluged. But that also blew all the fuel out of the line. After everything was reconnected, I blew some air (with the compressor) into the gas tank filler, like I was putting gas in it. That forced the gas thru the line all the way to the fuel pump. Problem solved for me, and it's been working ever since.

Thank you - will try that as well.

Problem I am having is getting the gasoline from the pump to the carburator. It doesn't seem to want to pump. One is a new pump and other pump is from my old 216 engine. One pumps gas only the other pumps gas and vacuum.

So one of the pumps should work. But both do the same thing. Sit there and ignore the gas that needs to be pumped.

I know I am missing something but what exactly I am missing I do not know.
Thanks again for your help.

It will not hurt to try the can full of fuel, as the fuel tank.

I once had a fuel line that was "cracked / open" on the top side of the fuel line, facing the floor of the vehicle.

When cranking, the pump was sucking air in, from the crack, instead of the fuel from the tank.

Give the coffee can idea a try. You have nothing to lose and you always face challenges very well.

The gas flows freely from the tank.

Tried the pump from the coffee can and no suction at all.

It appears that I am not getting the pump placed correctly. I can feel the roller and I can feel the slight pressure when I push the lever into the hole.

Will do it again tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help.