Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#338945 04/02/15 08:43 PM
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Grease Monkey
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Does anyone have suggestions on how to correctly replace the top on a 31 Coach? I have ordered a kit from Hampton Coach then noticed that the Filling Station sells the 'correct' aluminum roof molding in 8 foot sections. I got these too but now it is a bit intimidating trying to install these for the first time with no experience.
Alternatively, is there a contact near Seattle who would be willing to help?
THANKS!

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The straight portions of the top moulding are not a problem. It is the back corners that are a challenge. Make a bending template matching the arc of the top sheet metal and a little over 90 deg. Use a piece of plywood. Attach a flat piece of plywood above and below the template to keep the moulding level while bending. Install a block to hold one end of the moulding in place. Bend with the open side facing out. Take it slow and easy. The flap will be drawn down at the center of the bend during the bending. It is not a major problem but makes adding a nail or screw at the center of the bend bit difficult. Gently pushing with a piece of wood can keep it open enough to be able to add fasteners. It all can be done by a single person but two are far better. I recommend practicing using the cut off piece that remains from sizing the front moulding. Because it is short it is far more difficult to make the bend than a longer piece.

It would be great if someone would make a video of the process. That would help a bunch of folks make the bends more comfortably. It has been maybe 20 years since I did it last time. No video capability on the dial phones of that era.


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Hello 31ChevyCoach,
To learn more about replacing a top on closed bodied cars, you might want to read about it online at: 'www.abarnyard.com'. Go to 'The Workshop', then select 'Installing a Closed Car Roof'. It does not address metal roof moldings though. I seem to recall discussions and maybe even photos of the wooden forming jig within the Chevy Chat site in the past sometime somewhere, but I might just be dreaming. I have a 31 Coach that needs a new top also, and I don't know if I can salvage the original moldings or not. I'll have to study some more on that. My Coach came from the Oakland Ca. plant. Can you say where your Coach was made?

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I doubt the 31 metal roof molding can be salvaged as it's a fold over design. Once the molding is installed and screwed to the roof the "flap" is then folded over to cover the seam. I think it would be almost impossible to unfold it as it's aluminum.


Steve D
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The original top moulding was nailed not screwed and then folded over. You are correct that it can not be successfully pried open to be reused. It can be reused by drilling small holes in the moulding, nail or screw it down and then fill the holes prior to painting black.


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Here is a question to think about: Was the original metal roof crown moulding painted black or was it painted roof color?

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Thank you all for your helpful input.
Chipper's input is consistent with what Steve at the Filling Station suggested but much more detailed - thanks! Apparently a plywood template is recommended. Only one question here: Chipper suggested to use a 'practice' piece left over from the front molding. Steve on the other hand said only two 8 foot pieces would be required since the front uses a hidem, not the metal molding. In that case there would be no left over.
I also looked at Harry's Coach web site, which is helpful too. Regarding his question; my Chevy was assembled in Norwood, OH around the middle of November 1930. Unfortunately an older amateur restoration with a ripped replacement top had hidem nailed (and screwed) all around the top and the original molding is gone.
Again, thanks for all your help!

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Here is a question to think about: Was the original metal roof crown moulding painted black or was it painted roof color?

That is a good question.

"Was the body painted before or after the top material and moulding was installed?" is another.

Because it is far easier to mask off the molding (tape sticks better to paint than fabric) I lean strongly to painting the moulding to match the black fabric instead of the upper body color. Hence, my feeling it was black.


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Steve on the other hand said only two 8 foot pieces would be required since the front uses a hidem, not the metal molding.

I will disagree with Steve on that one. All original 1931s I have owned or seen have the front moulding the fold over metal. I think I still have one of those pieces around here someplace. So it takes three 8-foot pieces for the complete job. One for each side and around the back, meeting in the middle and one over the front of the top. BTW that one has the ends filed so it butts snugly to the side mouldings.


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Thanks Chipper,
Regarding the question "Was the body painted before or after the top material and moulding was installed?", the instructions from Hampton Coach state "After nailing trim in place all around the opening fill nail holes in trim with aluminum putty or epoxy. Sand over filled nail holes and you are ready for paint on trim strips." However they also state "Some models use a strip of hidem binding across the front of the windshield". Perhaps the top assembly was model dependent.

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The models with a soft top did have a hidem type welting on the front of the top. 1931 models with metal top and center fabric used a metal moulding across the top. As I stated previously there was a beaded welting similar to (but smaller diameter bead) the one used between fenders, splash aprons between the sunvisor and upper front filler panel on 1931.


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Thanks again Chipper,
Just ordered another 8 foot piece of aluminum roof molding (precut to 5 and 3 feet for cheaper shipping).

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I will disagree with Steve on that one. All original 1931s I have owned or seen have the front moulding the fold over metal.

I agree with the above. A metal front roof crown moulding was used...and the same was true for 1930 as well.

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I had a 1931 coach and had to remove the metal strip across the top to replace a piece of wood in the header some years ago.
Check wood in areas for good nailing before you cover it up.

Bob's Automobilia (Buick dealer) also carries the same strips as the Filling Station. They are in Calif. Can deliver to Fall Carlise and Fall Hershey but must order ahead of time. I picked up afew pieces last fall at Hershey from them. A friend of mine in Upstate NYS just ordered from them recently. Filling Station shipping had skyrocked to $125 for shipping while he paid $44 shipping from Bob's for the 8' lengths including shipping tube.
http://bobsautomobilia.com/shop/


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I think that the Filling Station gets their roof crown mouldings from Bob's Automobilia.

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After reading all the above I have a few questions. I have a new HC roof kit in box. It uses wire-on for the sides and hidem for across the front. That is the material supplied. Are you guys saying it really shouldn't be hidem but more wire-on should be used if the original strips are not available? Or should the roofing strips be ordered from Bobs for the roof to be done correctly and don't use what HC supplies?

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Chipper,
Does the welting between the sunvisor and the front filler panel
extend to the bottom of the visor or does it end at the filler panel?
Thanks
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Hi Chistech,
I think I can help you with this question. The wire-on and hidem work as replacement material but the original did have the aluminum roof molding. Thus if you want to replace the top you may want to consider getting these as well. In addition, the front molding had welting trim tips at the end (also available from the Filling Station). As example of a perfectly mounted top I found the following images: www.gatewayclassiccars.com/saint-louis/1932/chevrolet/coach-S5662.html

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The top material looks like the cloth I got from Hampton coach kit for my 35 standard 3w coupe. I think the material is called STAY-FAST and they had a couple of shades of black to choose from.

Material has a nice cloth feel to it.

The kit came with the nails and hide-um material for the top along with other roof materials to do the job right.

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If you want photos of what the top molding should look like installed I could send you some photos. My car is a 32 but since that was not available the 31 molding was installed. I did not do it myself so I can't help with installation instructions but I can tell you that it needs to be sealed well.


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Are you guys saying it really shouldn't be hidem but more wire-on should be used if the original strips are not available?

The original roof crown mouldings are available.


Quote
Or should the roofing strips be ordered from Bobs for the roof to be done correctly and don't use what HC supplies?


Yes.

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One more thing regarding the roof molding. Bob's Automobilia charges $31 per strip, the Filling Station charges $29.50. Also, shipping charges from the Filling Station for me were $22 plus $8 for a shipping tube.

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I paid $25 per strip and picked up at Fall Hershey from Bob's.
The friend of mine ordered a few weeks ago from Bob"s and said the catalog price was $31 but only charged him $25 per strip for 4 strips.
Since you are in Washington the Filling Station may be cheaper since it is closer than Bob's.


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Thanks for the info guys. Just when i think I've got everything I need to do the job right, I find I what I have isn't quite right! WTH

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31ChevCoach I send you a PM


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