VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1965-1970 69 Corvette 427 390 Hp Distributor does not turn

I think I have a serious problem. The engine was idealing rough, thought it was the carburetor, than all the sudden it stopped running. Tried to restart it and it just flooded out the carb. Checked the distributor and when turning the engine over the distributor does not turn. Pulled the distributor and its okay. Any idea's I think something happen to the timing chain. The engine turns over, no noise coming from the engine.

May have stripped the teeth on the cam gear, pull a valve cover and check for valves opening when cranking.

I am thinking that I need to pull the cover off the front and check the gears there, if the valves would open the distributor would still turn. Its weird that flooding the cylinders with fuel would cause the cam chain or teeth to strip. It all happen when I tried to restart the car, it was just idealing ruff when I shut it down and tried to start it again. I had to have the carb rebuilt because it was flooding out the engine. I pulled the distributor and its in good condition.

Just order a new timing chain and both sprockets and a cover gasket and seal. You will be needing the parts.
If the sprockets have the nylon teeth you will find a bunch of nylon shreds in the oil pan so get a pan gasket while you are at it.
Also hope that you didn't bend any of the valves.

Did the 427 390HP have nylon teeth, I would be thrilled if that's what it is.

I am fairly sure they did. Can't remember exactly when the nylon coated teeth were discontinued.

This reminds me of a trip I had made many years ago to Florida from Georgia with my Father. We stopped in Jasper, Florida to get gas. Once we got rady to start the trip again our 1969 Pontiac Grand Prix 400 cu inch would not start even though it turned over with no drag at all. Later we found out that the timing chain gear had nylon teeth that had stripped which the mechanic said was common for that year. This was over 45 yers ago and I remember it well. My bet is that you have the same problem. I wish you luck in your repair you have a nice car.

That was super common on GM cars with nylon coated gear teeth. If you made it to 100,000 miles you were lucky.

What we have found so far. The small gear has 8 teeth missing, the large gear teeth are coated with nylon and is almost smooth all the way around, maybe only 10 teeth left. The Mechanic thinks the small gear missing teeth have been that way for some time, no shiny teeth. The large gear had some old spots but 90% shiny wear. What funny about the whole thing is that the car even ran. We think when the cylinders flooded out (hydraulic the cylinders) it cause the large gear to finally give way. It was done with just using the starter and turning the engine over, not a whole lot of tork, but enough for the old nylon teeth to fail. Were going to check for bent valves and push rods next.

Very important to drop the oil pan and remove the debris from the gears. If not done the oil pump screen will be blocked and starve the engine from oil.

Okay we got the new parts and will start putting it back together. Every one is saying to drop the pan and clean it out. From what I understand its just not that easy. I read that there are two things that need to be done. 1. Turn the crank so the pan can clear the counter weight in the front of the engine. 2. Drop the control arm. Is this correct or is there an easier way?

Sorry posted this follow up in the wrong string.
This is the condition of the crank and cam gears. My Mechanic said he has never seen both go out at the same time. The damage must of started a long time ago, look a the missing teeth on the crank gear, the teeth are not shinny. We feel that that had been damaged some time ago, and the cam was ready to go, all it took to finish it off was just trying to start it.

Finished doing the gear replacements, pressure tested the cylinders and averaged 177 lbs.I lucked out and did not bend anything when the gears went out.

As already stated, clean the debris out of the pan. If the debris clogs the oil pump, you'll be doing bigger repairs next time.

You did say this is a 427, right? I just can't imagine what caused the gears to strip. Ha!!

This has been a great story for the past month and a half... just like reading a novel... I can't wait to get to the last chapter.

Good luck. Be sure to give us all of the gory details... even if you set the distributor off by 180 degrees. Ha!

Okay Bill so we put the distributor in 180 degrees wrong, you had to say it didn't you. So after putting it in right it fired right up. We set the timing, and adjusted the carb I had rebuilt. Purrs like a kitten. But now the tack does not work, so I need a little help there. We did not mess with anything and it worked before.

To date, new, water pump, (found the old one only 2 years old leaking) new clutch fan (leaking second one in 2 years) new timing chain, cam and crank gears. Had to replace the coil wire (went dead) new plugs, new water hose from water pump, new belts,professional rebuild on original carb. 5 quarts of Quaker with zinc oil and filter.

The good news it runs great.

Ha ha... sorry... but it is kind of funny...
We've ALL done that.

Wish I could help with the tach, but mine is manual, not electrical. But let us know what you find out. I don't think that it's good to hook up the electrical leads 180 degrees out of whack either. !?!?!?

Well its not over. turns out the tach is manual (loose cable)today we added a new coil, and all new plug wires (2 burnt plug wires) (coil was also original factory installed). Hopefully this is all that needs to be replace. We will be doing the fine tuning of the timing and carb tomorrow. My mechanic told me he never wants to see this car again. No engine room to work on everything is packed tight in the engine compartment. Lots of busted knuckles,and cuts on the hands and arms.

Finally it's done, runs great, sounds like a big block should. Total cost $1875.00

Ha ha... sorry, but I've got to laugh. Mechanics have been saying that since 1969!!!

Glad that you're up and running. You going to be at Tahoe in Aug 2016?

--Bill

Don't stop laughing Bill, After screwing around trying to get it fine tuned, I found a broken rocker arm on #1 cylinder, total cost $4.00. Now it runs like a new car, I did find out from several mechanics that broken rocker arms happen all the time on these 427 engines. I do plan on replacing all of them with roller rocker arms. Any suggestions on the best brand?