VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 1937-1939 Front motor mounts change

I am planning to change the front motor mounts on my 1939 Master 85. Do I need to remove the front crossmember, or can I do this easily by removing the mounting bolts and jack the engine?

Remove the bottom bolts first and then jack-up the engine.

Thank you Chevgene!

Bjorn Sundfar

If not done yet make sure you put a piece of plywood under the oilpan before jacking...Why not replace the side mounts too?

This is an old post, but the job is still awaiting. Now it is time to do it, because the old motor mounts are oil soaked and poor.
It seems that it is very narrow access to the upper screws, without removing the radiator. Is it necessary to remove the upper screws? Or can I just turn the motor mount around as a nut, when the bottom bolts are removed? Or other good tips to give, so I can do this work without removing "half of the car".

A second question; the motor mount has a groove on both bottom and upper pin, that seems to be parallel with the motor moount. But on one of the mounts has the upper pin groove turned about 30 degrees. The other 3 pins are perfect. Will it be a problem to fit the one with this turned groove?

Enclosed C of 40s picture of the type I bought (mine is bought from an ebay seller) http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/7353/Chevrolet_MOTOR_MOUNT_FRONT.html

I am also looking at changing out my '39 front motor mounts.

How did your's turn out with this advive?


Thanks

David

IT IS TIGHT , BUT DOABLE . I PUT A 2 BY 6 ON THE OIL PAN . BE CAREFUL . IT WORKED FOR ME . FRANK

If you cannot see the top of your motor mounts, here is what the flanges look like.







Can they be replaced without removing the radiator? Yes. Most likely you will need several mirrors to see which bolt flanges need to be pried back, then you can use a wrench to loosen the top bolts. The driver's side will be harder due to the generator being in the way. Still, life would be much easier if you removed the front nose.

I had my oil pan off at the time, and used a couple pieces of wood to hold the engine about an inch higher than normal. The wood pieces were jacked up against the block.

I would not use the oil pan to jack up the engine, I don't want to risk damaging it, but if I had to leave it on, I would use some 2x6 lumber on either side of the pan.

Also, I strongly recommend that you use a tap & die kit to remove the debris left in the threads on the new mounts. Makes the old bolts go in much easier.