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Shade Tree Mechanic
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I am working on taking the body off the frame of my 36 Standard. I have the body bolts out but can't figure how the filler tube portion of the gas tank connects to the gas tank part of the tank. There's a hub on the filler neck, in the trunk, that goes over the tube leading to the gas tank. Need advice please. I have gently tapped it with a hammer and dug at it with a screw driver but before I mess something up I thought I'd ask. Also there was a thick crude wrapping of what looked like asphalt around the connection. Factory or DIY?? THX ![[Linked Image from i1319.photobucket.com]](http://i1319.photobucket.com/albums/t663/RonH4609/IMG_2233_zps0fdf4ec2.jpg)
1936 Chevy Standard Town Car (Late model) Basketcase
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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The 1935 Master, 1936 Master and Standard have the same "connections". The 1935 Engineering Manual shows a cross section of that connection. From the diagram t appears that the "big round thing" is threaded to a ring on the lower fill neck. I can send you the picture or you can go to the GM Archives site, find 1935 resatoration pages ans see the picture as it is taken from the engineering manual.
Gene Schneider
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I see you had your email address listed so I sent the picture
Gene Schneider
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
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The 36 Engineering Manual basically says the same thing, "The two parts of the neck are held together by a threaded coupling, in which a cork seal is provided to prevent fuel leakage."
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Gene Schneider
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thanks all for your help, especially Gene.
Upon closer examine today I think I was asking the wrong question. I think I needed to ask how the filler tube connects to the gas tank?
I found an answer in the engineering manual that says the tube is sweated to the tank. Soooo, I guess I'll see if I can unscrew the coupling (doubtful as nothing else with treads has come unscrewed :-)....) or cut the tube and figure it out once I separate the body from the frame.
I can weld the tube back together later.
1936 Chevy Standard Town Car (Late model) Basketcase
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Joined: Sep 2004
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
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Definitely try to salvage both pieces of the filler tube. I don't think good replacements are easy to find. You may need to replace your tank and the new tanks do not have a threaded filler neck, so you may need to use your old one. I wound up having to use a gas approved rubber hose from the new gas tank neck to a non correct filler tube.
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thx,
However, sometimes it pays to stop and eat lunch on a problem.
Instead of removing the car from the gas tank----
How about removing the gas tank from the car! DUHH........
Think I'm on the way to being done with this issue. Gas tank almost out I think. Letting the bolts soak with a little penetrating oil so I can finish removing them I hope.
1936 Chevy Standard Town Car (Late model) Basketcase
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Joined: Jun 2013
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Success! ![[Linked Image from i1319.photobucket.com]](http://i1319.photobucket.com/albums/t663/RonH4609/DBB49E8F-3C44-4BFB-BB1D-63CDDDFF9C6E_zpsftt6dspr.jpg) Plus a bonus when I rinsed out the tank!! His last thoughts "Hey, It's dark and smelly in he..." ![[Linked Image from i1319.photobucket.com]](http://i1319.photobucket.com/albums/t663/RonH4609/8A891DC4-0F01-4B1A-B187-2F5415245749_zps4so4lz29.jpg)
1936 Chevy Standard Town Car (Late model) Basketcase
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Joined: Jan 2002
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Gene Schneider
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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How about "Ethyl" ?
Seems appropriate.
1936 Chevy Standard Town Car (Late model) Basketcase
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Joined: Jan 2002
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Sounds good to me 
Gene Schneider
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I have had mine apart last December. I had to use a pipe wrench and a cheater bar on that. I also used a back up pipe wrench to prevent it from twisting out of the tank. There is a paper type gasket which will have to be replaced. I made one from sheet material I bought at the local auto parts. I also used glue to help. This is a fine thread connection. I had soaked it in PB Blaster for three days before getting it loose. You will have to have it apart for it to go back into the car. Looking under the car where the tank came from is also straps on top of the gas tank. These prevent the fuel gauge sending unit from grounding out on the bottom of the car body. It is a close fit. You will most likely have to make new straps under there. Mine were rusted through. The lower straps are obvious. You will also find the sending unit will have to be replaced. It is important to make sure that a good ground through the straps that hold the tank in place to the body is there. The sending unit will not work with out a good ground. The gas gauge in the dash will not register properly with out a good ground from sending unit bolt to tank to strap to body. Hope this helps and good luck.
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To make sure the guage tank unit has a good ground is to put an earth strap from a sender mounting screw to the car frame. Easy to do with the tank out of the car. Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thanks, I'll keep grounding in mind when I reinstall it.
1936 Chevy Standard Town Car (Late model) Basketcase
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