Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#334016 02/11/15 05:40 PM
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I finally removed the steering box and column from my '29 Sedan. I opened it up and found a hard, pasty substance instead of grease or 600wt oil. Still taking it apart but I havent't found any bearings yet except metal to metal. More on that later.

There's a column and box on ebay for a '31 or '33 truck, item 121553296186. It looks just like the column I finally got out of my 29 sedan and the last 3 numbers '539 are the same as my box. The first three numbers on mine are illegible.

I couldn't find similar columns in my parts books, buy I know sometimes they used earlier parts on trucks. Opinions?


Jim


Jim Barnhart
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The one listed on eBay looks like a '29-'30. It is definitely not a '31 and later model.


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I have a 33 complete with wheel

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Thanks Chipper and Milkshake.


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The 1933 steering column and wheel are completely different than the steering column and wheel used in 1929 and 1930.

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The Mangy Old Mutt

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Turns out the column and box on ebay are the same as mine. I scraped away another 40 years of gunk to match the remaining number.

Anybody agree that $250 is too much to spend on a box that I really can't know if it is any better than mine?

So I took mine apart. One set of bearings is loose and came out as I took it apart. The metal they ride in appears to be damaged...VAPInc is out of stock. I'll be trying to repair mine. or anyone have a set?

But, now that I've disassembled it, the adjustment instructions in the Repair Manual make perfect sense.

Life is good!
Jim



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Buying used parts is a crap shoot. Most sellers don't know the mechanical condition particularly of assemblies as they don't take them apart. Most don't even know how to check and see if parts are worn or damaged. I would suggest a short search for the needed parts, checking with the local retired machinist working in his backyard shop and then deciding of $ 250 is excessive or not. That is not a lot to pay for the enjoyment in driving the old '30 Chevy.


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Anybody agree that $250 is too much to spend on a box that I really can't know if it is any better than mine?


Yes, $250 is excessive for a steering box. The average price seems to be around $150.

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Skip,
Over the years I don't remember seeing anything in G&D addressing the thrust bearing issue but I could have missed it.

In a previous thread on the 1929-30 thrust bearings You said:

Some fellows have found modern bearings of the correct size that will work and then they have machined their steering boxes so that that replacement bearings can be installed.

Do you or someone else know anyone that we can contact to find out what they used. thanks


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Sorry, I don't. I have talked to fellows in the past at swap meets and etc. that did this procedure however. As I remember, they measured their old bearing, crossed it over to a modern bearing that was close in dimensions and then machined their steering boxes to fit.

Many years ago United Bearing used to have a supply of the original bearings in their obsolete bearing stock but, by now, no doubt that their supply is used up. That is where I found the bearings for my steering box about 30 plus years ago.

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Skip,

Thanks. Always appreciate your help.

Maybe someone else reading this thread has used replacement thrust bearings that would work or with modification can let us know.


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Hey Jim,

Check out the 1929 Chevrolet 'mystery' in the G&D classified this month on page 46. For only $300 (obo) you can get a used steering column, spare engine, and whole bunch of other stuff you can part out.

The best part is that it lives only 57 miles from you!!

Good luck!

Dean


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I've seen that ad. And yes, I've thought about it. Lots of extra cr** to get rid of. I'll look again.

Jim


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One way to get rid of car stuff is to donate it to your local high school auto shop. Make a good steering column for yourself, and donate the rest to the school along with a few G&D magazines.

They can make a school mascot vehicle out of it and have an antique for educational purposes. Besides, your donation should be tax deductible.

Whether you donate or not, I'm sure the class would LOVE to see your project. The kids (and teacher!) at San Leandro High went nuts over my '28 truck.

Go for it!

Cheers, Dean


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I checked yesterday, that car is sold!


Jim Barnhart
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Originally Posted by Doug Zeno
Skip,

Thanks. Always appreciate your help.

Maybe someone else reading this thread has used replacement thrust bearings that would work or with modification can let us know.

United Bearing in Texas still has a supply of these bearings. Stock # N-36 made by the nice company years ago.

"If you want call Ben here at United Bearing and he will help you. (800-527-9475)"

They do not sell direct, but Ben will get you the number of their nearest distributor to you.

Be prepared to part with an arm and a leg for them, but they are exact replacements. I just got 2 and I'm out to the garage to rebuild that box!


Jim


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Glad to hear that the bearings are still available through United. Cool!

So, what is the current cost of the bearings?

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The Mangy Old Mutt

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About $45 each. But it depends on which local distributor you get. Another member told me in an email that his distributor wanted $77 each.

Jim


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$45 isn't a bad price for those scarce bearings. Actually, it is reasonable. The price of $77 is getting on the high side a little, but....you know the old saying....."if you need 'em, get 'em."

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SKF 51104 bearings should work in the 1929-30 steering box, two are required for each unit. Each 51104 bearing has three parts, two races with the cage and balls in the center. You may need only one race and one cage/ball assembly for each side of the worm gear if the original race is still ok and still part of the shaft. If the unit is badly worn, the end of the shaft may have to be built up and the bushing replaced inside the threaded adjustment part.


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Update. The column and steering box went back together easily. Hardly any steering wheel play now. I'm going to recheck my front wheel bearings now, as well as the tie rod ends, before I take it on the road again. carbana beer2


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I have found that the majority of the steering wheel play is the pitman shaft bushings, then the pitman shaft wear, steering box bearings and finally pitman gear. As long as the worm gear is not corroded or run dry for an extended period it typically is okay.


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