VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Disk brake conversion

Hey guys. Is there a company that sells a front disk brake conversion kit with 6 lug rotors. I tried a search but came up empty with what I'm looking for. I'm trying to keep the original look but the original brakes were horrible. Maybe it's from using power brakes so long and being older. Thanks Cliff

I don't know of any but I have confidence some company that will have what you need.

Without power the disc brakes may not be a great improvement. The original will do just fine if you do the following:

a. Back off a good distance.

b. Keep the original stuff in good shape.

c. Don't tailgate.

d. Drive defensively.

e. And avoid heavy traffic.

I hope you don't interpret my advice as telling you how to drive. I'm merely saying what works for me and the 41 coupe. Good luck with whatever you want to do.

Charlie

BTW: The part I like best about disc brakes is the relative ease in replacing the pad as opposed to shoes. With the same amount of pressure applied I doubt the disc brakes will lock up the wheels any quicker than drum brakes. I admit that is not always a good thing. Just saying...

Thanks Charlie. I know I'm getting older and have been driving a lot of years but nothing compares to occasional good advise. Did you ever consider putting power brakes on your 41? Thanks Cliff

He would rather have a Fulton sun visor

Master,

Anything can be done, often with common, inexpensive parts. Here's an example. My street rod is a fiberglass replica '32 Ford roadster. The front brakes are Ford spindles on a Bell dropped beam axle, Mopar Aspen/Volare 11" rotors and hubs, GM "Metric" calipers,good old fashioned ASBESTOS pads and an unboosted 22mm bore 1985 Ford Thunderbird aluminum master cylinder.

Before making your disc brake conversion I'd suggest finding some asbestos friction and trying it. On my street rod, replacing the "organic" friction with asbestos was like adding a booster. Asbestos friction is like R12 refrigerant, illegal to manufacture but not to own and very abundant on ebay for the 1936-50 Huck brakes.

Some restorers look down their noses at street rod builders but it's the street rod guys who apply enginuity to solving problems.

Charlie would run over the Fulton, using the mangled Fulton as the brakes.

If anyone has an old unwanted Fulton that they can donate to a poor soul, I can use it. Fenders skirts would be appreciated also.
Mike A

Gene, That right there hurt something awful. Did too! They had to use the paddles on me to get me going again.

Brino, you said "Some restorers look down their noses at street rod builders but it's the street rod guys who apply enginuity to solving problems."

Well, most of us are awed by and appreciate the street rod builder's ingenuity and ability expressed in their creations. We don't really look down our noses, though, We merely scratch our heads and accept it for what it is. For many of us it is not our "bag of tea", but still marvel at the product and admire the builder. (You started this.)

Charlie





Brino,

Did you consider using ahydro-booster in combination with your drum drakes??

Jianis

I know that modern vehicles have electric power steering. Other stuff like clutch linkage was once direct mechanical and then hydraulic. Brake boosters were vacuum aided. Is there an electric brake booster? If so I am sure it would be 12 volts.

try master power brakes in mooresville n.c. 1-800-472 4181 they have been making conversion kits for disc brakes for older cars for years. I googled them and their website still comes up.

With a good, quality, brake lining, along with good hardware and cylinders, I believe brakes from the past are good.

Horrible comes to mind when all of the above are neglected.

I think disc brakes take more force or pressure to do their job. They are better with power assist. Personally I have no problems with the way the Chev Huck brakes perform.

I have to problem locking up the OEM brakes on my '38. Having said that if you're set on changing your brakes you may find this thread of interest. It's a long read but may prove fruitful.

Thanks for all the info guys. I am not a negative hot rod guy. Most of them in my eyes are amazing. Once in a while I think someone should restore them back to original. Just like the animals, once there gone there gone. Just my humble opinion. Thanks again. Cliff

Old216 is right disc brakes require more hydraulic pressure to operate as they do and this is achieved generally with vacuum assistance. Vacuum assistance can be be assisting you oush the pedal or by adding pressure to the hydraulics after the pedal has been pushed.
I have seen disc brakes work quite effectively without vacuum assistance but the pedal leverage was very cumbersome.
Tony

Thanks for the info Tony. Just trying to figure out which way to go. Cliff

Nope...Another reason I gave up the thought...Can't kept your old wheels...

A great idea even if you do have disc brakes...!

"I am not a negative hot rod guy".

What is a negative hot rod guy ? ? ?

"Negative hot rod guy is a guy that has positive ground instead of negative ground.

I'm glad I asked this question. It's getting comical now. Thanks for making me chuckle. Cliff

Does negative ground levitate and positive ground suck? Or does a negative hot rod guy just mean mouth hot rods instead of appreciating them?

Cliff,

Another option you have if you convert to front discs is a "remote booster". It mounts out of sight, like in the trunk. It senses brake application because it is plumbed into the brake lines. It sends boosted pressure to wherever your route its output line to and uses engine vacuum for power.

My wife's Mercedes 190SL has one of those and they were on British cars also. They are relatively common on ebay.

Back to street rodding for a moment, some of them actually hide disc brakes inside dummy drums.