VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1946-1948 Front end re-assembly

I'm ready to begin re-assembly of the front suspension, having finally garnered all the necessary new parts. Does anyone have a tip on how to compress the coil springs? All I have is a bare frame lying there, no weight to oppose a jack from the underside. (motor at machinest)
Thanks,
WenatcheeWalt

How about borrowing or renting a spring compressor from a Autozone or a rental store? or building one out of a piece of 1/2" allthread some nuts and 1"x3/16" strap iron and compress the springs.

Check out this one from Eastwood,


Spring Compressor Buy one or...I bet with a little time and talent a shop full of blacksmith tools, a torch , etc, etc. you could even make one.

A spring compressor is not necessary.....do a search as Fleetmas47 gave the instructions a month or two back.
Basicly you connect up the lower , outter pivot and jack-up the controll arm and bolt up the inner cross shaft.

Evidently no one here gets the picture, or has done this before as a true frame-off restoration. The instructions in the service manual are quite good, IF you have an assembled car to start with. The manual presumes a car with a motor, fenders etc,in other words...some weight. I have a bare frame, nothing but a frame and a crossmember sitting on the shop floor. The manual depends on the weight of the car to compress the springs that are under a jack stand.When you remove the jack the a-frame will settle on the jack stand and compress the spring. But if you dont have the weight to settle it down guess what? The weight of the bare frame isn't enough to compress the spring.
The spring must be compressed so the pivot pins can both be installed, upper and lower, and then remove whatever it is that is compressing the spring. So I guess I'll devise something on my own as Mr. Mack suggested.
WenatcheeWalt

Yes/for that operation a compressor would be best.Check to see if it can pass theu the opening in the lower controll arm spring seat though.You will need the type that fits inside the coil spring.

Like Gene stated you will need something that fits "inside" the spring to compress them. As there is not a whole lot of room outside of the spring when compressed down there. let us know what you come up with.

picture this! and on sale for $31.95 call EASTWOOD!

That particular tool might not work Mr. Mack, the top piece appears to be stationary,ie, fixed to the threaded rod portion,thusly unable to be removed from inside the spring, however it does provide me with the vision of what I need. Quite simple really, thanks alot.
WenatcheeWalt

I have not used this particular tool but they are designed for what you plan to do. I always came up with a piece of 1/2" all thread a couple of nuts two modified electric edger blades and went after it.

The outter hooks pivot on the center threaded part.I have sold a number of this style over the last 25 years.Just off hand I would guess that it would be too large to go thru the hole in the lower controll arm and perhaps also too large to fit inside the rather small diameter 1948 spring.The compressor with a fixed top and bottom plate with a threaded rod in the center may be better.Thats why I would try to rent one rather then purchase one in event it won't fit the hole/spring.

I am not sure of front frame design but I would think if you used a length of all thread and a couple of plates instead of the shock absorber you would have reasonable success.
It might be advissable to use high tensile thread if available as there will be heavy tension when the outer pin holes line up.
Tony

Well I tried using 1/2" rod and 3/8" steel and guess what? The steel bent!!! The pieces I made were 8" long x 2" wide by 3/8". After I compressed about 1" the steel began to bend and slip. Back to the drawing board. Maybe a different type of metal and not steel.This is going to be very difficult. Turning the nut inside the spring is very hard to do
WenatcheeWalt

Set a jack on top of the frame with a loop of chain or steel cable going down to the control arm to pull it up to the mounting points on the frame. Basically the same thing as putting the jack on the floor when you have the motor providing the resistance. The usual warnings about pieces of metal under tension apply so be very careful and make sure everything is firmly and solidly in position. Good luck!

I meant to put a plate on top of chassis thread rod through shock absorber top mount, spring and lower arm.
If you use project48's idea make sure everything cant move and chain cant roll off the jack, if it lets go you wont have time to get out of the flight path.
You might be able to hire a pull through porta-power which would be easier and safer. The biggest problem will be size of hole you have to feed it through.
Tony

The shock absorber on a 1948 is not inside the coil spring.Its a lever type and built into and forms the upper controll arm.Thats what makes the job difficult.

Project 48's idea sounds promising. I'll give it a try. I have a small metal table that fits neatly over the a-arm and shock, I'll weld a chain to the top of a bottle jack, and slip it down around the a-frame and tack it. No slippage then.
Meanwhile will someone help ID a pair of shocks? P/N 5328665-R & 5328665-A.

Thanks alot,
WenatcheeWalt

The shocks are from a car from about 1936...look for a number like 1420A or B - will be stamped on the metal cover or the large covers.

Use extreem caution with this project-I want to sell you more parts in the future

Go over to your local AutoZone or Advance Auto auto parts store (I forget which one) and see what they have available in the line of tools for loan. They'll let you take a tool with a credit card imprint as collateral and, as long as you don't damage the tool, will tear up the charge slip when it's returned. You get to use the tool (and they have quite an assortment) for NOTHING but the trip to the store.

Get the right tool for the job.
-Bob

Just went thru this on the weekend on my '46.used a floor jack and a 2" ratchet strap.Assembled everything except the lower control arm. I placed the jack plate just on the inner part of the control arm. Just inward of the innermost part of the spring.Plate that supports the spring. I put the ratchet strap around the cross member and down underneath the jack. This keeps the frame from rising on u. As I jacked up the lower control arm I guided the bolt holes in the c. a. shaft to the holes on the cross member using two pieces of round stock 3/8" ground to a point to make it easier to guide it in place as my buddy jacked up the control arm. You're doing it the way the manual says to only you use the stap on the jack to take the place of the weight of the body and engine. Hope this helps you out if you havn't got it already.

I like that better than my idea. There's fewer opportunities for something to come loose and damage something, or worse, someone. Thanks!