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Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
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I was wondering what's the best products to clean and prep an engine for painting. I've read many forums on the subject and none of them seem convincing. Any suggestions or successes on the subject? I don't have a lot of build up I just want to make sure it's clean for paint.
Thanks again guys!
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I would like to know what everyone thinks as well.... I bought some KBS Klean To try out when i do mine here in a few weeks.
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
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The best I have used is a pressure washer with detergent solution. An alternate is scraping off the large buildups then aerosol engine cleaner (has detergent and kerosene or similar solvent. Follow it up with acetone or lacquer thinner to make sure I get off the grease and dirt. It is far better to use a primer then paint with desired color. Lasts much longer than if no primer.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Chipper...
should one be concerned about getting the cleaner in any openings or such ?? where it would end up in oil paths or water ways ?!?
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
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You need to plug all openings and be careful not to put too much pressure on the rags or what ever you are using for plugs. I try to find rubber stoppers that I tap into the openings. A little water will not present a problem for most cases. I also drain the oil so that any water that gets into the crankcase can be drained easily.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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If you don't have a steam cleaner or pressure washer but do have a way to transport it a self service car wash makes a good place to wash off the heavy grime.
Steve D
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If you don't have a steam cleaner or pressure washer but do have a way to transport it a self service car wash makes a good place to wash off the heavy grime. I was going to suggest this myself. Zep makes a liquid soap called "Purple". This will clean off the grease and grime along with the pressure washing, with either hot or cold and will leave a neutral surface. You should still wipe everything down with a lacquer thinner before you paint. I use only an etching primer. I know the paint from Eastwood says it will work without a primer but I still primed my motor. A die grinder with a wire wheel is a great tool to remove any loose paint from virtually anyplace on the motor.
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Joined: Mar 2002
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2002
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Do a search here for "oven cleaner". Works really well if most of the hard old thick stuff is scraped off first. Wear rubber gloves,and glasses, and be sure to neutralize afterwards. Let it set for even a few hours, then rinse with water. If it gets down to the metal or cast iron, it will be so clean it will rust in a few hours, sort of like after sandblasting. May take a few applications to get everywhere. Easy Off seems more powerful than cheaper stuff. I'm not sure there is anything easy; it all takes some work.
Doug
SEE THE USA.......
Old Iron (cars, trucks, tractors, fire truck) Too much, never enough........
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
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Steam Jenny-equipment rental. Need to protect floor or ground below from oil and grease run off.
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Joined: Jul 2011
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thanks again for all the responses. Looks like I have a good way forward. I figure some day all the heavy cleaning and prepping will end.
80 plus years is along time to get dirty.
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Once you get the heavy grime out of the way, aerosol brake cleaner or carb cleaner is a good grease cutter. Worst thing you can do to ruin paint job on an engine is use silicone on gaskets. It gets everywhere and freaks paint adhesion out. I visited a shop which restores high-end engines recently and they were painting the engines with Dupont Imron.
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
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I'm in that 80 plus category and I find that a shower every few months keeps the grime level down. Don't think the wife will allow a steam jenny in the house.
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OK, I am getting closer to reassembling my 1929 Engine, but want to know when I go to clean the engine for painting should i get it to bare metal oR clean it up really good as suggested above, then prime n paint ?!? I am going to make sure i get all grease, grime, build up off !! right now i have it in my handy dandy custom stand Engine in Stand 1Engine in Stand 2
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
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The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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That what I figured...
any tips or tricks of the trade to doing so with the engine assembled, and keeping out debris and water in the passages and such where oil goes ?!?
I do have a pressure washer, just concerned about water IN the engine.
could do it slowly and painfully by hand . . . with a degreaser and stripper, then acetone to clean and prep the surface for prime n paint.
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
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could do it slowly and painfully by hand . . . with a degreaser and stripper, then acetone to clean and prep the surface for prime n paint. It would almost be easier to pull the engine and then work on it on an engine stand. 
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2010
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Hello BearsFan315, Are you going to disassemble your engine, or leave it assembled as shown in your 'engine in stand photos'? I would not want to introduce water into an assembled engine. You need to plug every opening well if you intend to strip and/or degrease the assembled engine. With the transmission attached to the engine, it may become more difficult to work on all surfaces unless you hang the engine vertically from the rafters with chain. How safe is that? After degreasing everything, inspect the existing paint for adhesion. If the paint is lifting from the metal, the paint should be stripped. If the paint is holding well to the metal, try scuffing the paint, then apply a high heat engine primer before repainting engine and transmission.
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Once the Engine is good and Clean you should have to "Prime" it. I painted all Four of my cars with bare metal and never had a problem. The Enamel Paint will stick to anything clean. I doubt if they were Primered at the Factory.
Jon T.
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Once the Engine is good and Clean you should have to "Prime" it. I painted all Four of my cars with bare metal and never had a problem. The Enamel Paint will stick to anything clean. I doubt if they were Primered at the Factory. Did you by chance mean "you should not have to 'Prime' it"? 
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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That's correct. You shouldn't have to "Prime" it. Should have read me Post before I posted it.
Jon T.
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Well I am going to remove transmission, so I can check clutch, and other internals. also going to remove the Push Rod Cover. Other than that I am going to TRY to do it as it is. Pug holes, clean it up good (use acetone or such to remove any and all residue fora good clean paint surface)
Plan to Prime it up, then paint it up.
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Just be careful with the Acetone....Absorbs into skin andean cause some very dangerous side effects....Highly carcinogenic....
Mac
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The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Safety First for me...
Got my Rubber Gloves I use, approved for most Nasty Chemicals. then my nitrile for the milder stuff
I am using TFS Grey Paint, as I used on the other Engine Components. This should be good to go on the Engine ? or will the Heat Destroy/ Remove it ?
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
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