VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1946-1948 Update on Aero

I thought I would take a minute to update everyone on my restoration project of my 1948 Aero.
The body is now off the car, and is sitting up on blocks waiting for attention. It has been shrink wrapped until next summer.
The frame and engine/drive train is in the garage now. Everything has been removed with exception of the motor which will be out by the weekend.
I have welded some needed repairs on the back of the frame where it had started to separate. I have sanded the frame quite abit with alot more to go.
This car was driven on the beach I suppose, as there was alot of sand..well everywhere. This also accounts for some very bad rusting in areas where it just shouldn't be so bad.
I am currently awaiting an order from Chevs of the 40's for brake parts. The only thing I did not purchase new was the drums. Hoses and cylinders are to be replaced as well as the lines. I don't want to worry about stopping. I was a little shocked at the price of the wheel cylinders.
The motor will go next week to be magna fluxed and then back here for rebuild by me. The motor will be stock with the exception of porting and polishing. The head and block will be blueprinted as well. A hidden improvement. I will probably grind the crank myself. I want it to be a balanced engine.
I was amazed at the number of bolts/nuts missing from the front end of the car. It was very dangerous to drive the way it was. I wish I knew how to post pictures here as I would if I could.
Thats it for now
Walt

Hey WenatcheeWalt,

Sounds like you have everything under control. Interesting about polishing the ports and so on. I suppose that makes the motor run smoother and a bit more powerful.

Click here for directions on how to post pictures.

In the mean time email me a few of your pictures and I will post them here for you. I'm sure the members would like to see your project.
bigbob@rdgsons.com

Walt! Sounds very interesting. Exactly what I am doing to my newly accquired 33 Master. I have all the doors, window glass, fenders, grill shell, radiator removed. I`m retired and am having a ball with my new toy, I`ve totally restored 2 other old chevy`s. This 33 came from Oregon and it must have been buried in the mud, because the entire running gear has 1 to 2 inches of dried mud on it. This car is going to be more challenging than the others since it is going to also be a woodworking project. I have discovered that people like us who have this illness as my wife likes to call it, are not totally satisfied when the work is done, because for me the enjoyment is doing the work although I do like to drive them on club tours. Did you use shrink wrap like they use to ship boats? Do you have the body outside? Keep us posted on any progress!!!

Walt, I was intrigued by your casual statement that you whould probably grind the crank yourself. Sounds as if you are a man with talent and equipment that some of us can only dream of. Tell us more.
As for porting and polishing, a regrind of your camshaft might accomplish more. A good friend of mine had his done by Isky. I believe they used the specs for a 292 Chevy truck cam. Les loves it.
Mike

It is more economical to use your old wheel cylinders and master cylinder. Have them lined with either brass or stainless steel and install new kits.

New wheel cylinders will corrode and rust very soon in an old car that doesn't get much use and you will be right back where you are now.

It was nice to recieve input from everyone who posted. I'll post some pics here pretty quick.
To answer some questions:
I am keeping the body stored outside, it is wrapped in the white wrap that they indeed use on boats. I have a friend who works for a marine shop here in Wenatchee.

Yes I am fortunate enough to have a mill and a lathe, Bridgeport mill and a Grizzley lathe. And a couple of other goodies.

I honestly never even thought of having the old wheel cylinders re-lined, a dumb over-sight on my part. Who does such work?

I'll post some pics soon.
Thanks all,
Walt

Sounds like your movin right along walt!!

Cant wait to see some of your pics!!!!

I am on tour. Could someone please answer his question of a source for lining wheel cylinders?

As soon as I return home I will post this information in the Tech Talk.

Wheel cylinders sleved-brass-

Sierra Specialty Auotmotive,Quincy,Ca..www.brakecylinder.com

White Post Restorations,White Post,VA....www.whitepost.com

New wheel cylinders will last for 5 to 10 years if your lucky.Brass sleved cylinders will last forever as far as the casting/rust is concerned.Usually the problem is the aluminum piston reacts to the cast iron cylinder surface and forms rust.This is eleminated with a brass sleve.Works for master cylinders also.I believe the common price is about $35. per cylinder.

I've used Sierra Specialty several times, I've very happy with their work.

Thanks chevgene for the posting. The Sierra Specialty Auotmotive is hands down the best.

The price, however has gone up.

thanks for that info about the cylinders, thats pretty much a no brainer at that price.
I appreciate it greatly.
Walt