VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 Engine swap vs adding a 1928 head to a 1921 engine

Yes, I used the liquid Bars Leak.

Thanks, Dean

Ken is right, it did cost me a lot of money to save the head. My 27 is a 27 1/2 so the valves are different that the early 27. I looked for a similar head to keep it all original and could only find ones that looked worse then mine. I found a engine shop that specialized in repairing blocks and heads that are difficult to find. The first thing they did was pressure check the head and found 4 cracks 3 inside and 1 at the exhaust. This is what they did, they cut the head open about 2 inches by 4 inches. Than they cast welded what the could and also bronze welded a spot, then to make sure the inside was solid the floated porcelain to add strength. Works great and no more leaks. The 27 heads were know to crack because of the single exhaust, the 28 came with dual exhaust and eliminated the cracking problems. One final thing never use head/block sealant, it can stop some leaks but it will screw up your radiator. I know that because I tried it before spending the money on the head. I did screw up my radiator with that stuff. The guy at the radiator shop told if I had to use the stop leak I should mix it with water a little at a time and that put it in the radiator slowly while the engine was running, also keep the engine running for a while to make sure the stop leak does not settle to the bottom of the radiator.

check this out

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1928-Chevro...ries&hash=item4d2836b4a3&vxp=mtr

Well, I took the gamble and jumped in the game. I just bought a 1928 head and it arrived Thursday. I am going to clean it up a little and then send it out for a flow test.

I suggest pressure test and vacuum test, good luck with your project!

I pulled the engine apart today. It was seized. I put Mystery oil in the four cylinders. Hoping a good soak will turn things around. I think the head is shot. The valves were rusted into the head. I was also unable to remove the distributor. I saturated it in penetrating oil. Thanks to a new friend from the VCCA on Facebook, I was informed the 1921 is actually a mid 1922 or 1923.

Well, I pulled the engine and transmission today. It was initially much easier than I had expected. When I pulled the sleeve back on the torque tube (I think that's what it is called) the universal joint and assembly was rusted. I got it apart with a little difficulty and progressed.

I pulled the engine and transmission as one. That was the last easy part. When I pulled apart the transmission, it was really rusty and it was holding water..... Yes, I said water. I sprayed the water out with penetrating oil and then filled it with some oil. I didn't disassemble it further. I will deal with that debacle next.

I was unable to free the motor. It is still seized. The clutch assembly was rusted into the flywheel. I spent the rest of the evening freeing it.

I guess I am going to stand it on its end and remove the oil pan next weekend and see where I stand.

I think this car may have been submerged so I can only image what other treasures I find along the way.

Honestly, I'm enjoying every moment of it.

Thanks for the updates! Yes, these old cars bring lots of surprises. But they also bring lots of warm-fuzzy moments when you overcome a particular challenge.

Enjoy the journey!!

Cheers, Dean

I have seen before and after photos of Ford Model T engines that the crank case was packed solid with mouse nest(and other mouse stuff they leave behind) with the pistons/valves well rusted in place brought back to life. Where there is a will there is a way!

keep us posted

I've not struck a cracked twin-port head either, they are not at all prone to cracking. Single ports, well that's another thing !!

Al

Independently over the past week I've had a few reputable auto body guys by to inspect the car. Everyone recomended pulling it apart and doing a complete restoration.

I was in deep water before, now I am completely over my head. Tomorrow, I'm going to see if I can get the motor on the stand and then I am going to start disassembling the body. Besides taking lots of pictures, does anyone have any recommendations?

do not throw anything out, take your time, post pics and all of use will encourage you! also offer our comments.

Trying to learn here.

One poster here says nothing interchanges between the '21 and the '28, but others say the '28 head is a direct bolt on for the '21.

Which way is correct here?

One bit of evidence about whether the '28 head will bolt onto a '21 is that the ads for new head gaskets for these engines state that the same gasket will work on 1916-1928 engines (for example, part G-500C from the Filling Station).

So, the head should 'bolt' on. I don't know enough about the different cams to comment on whether you need to modify the rocker arms.

Cheers, Dean

So, the parts do interchange plus the availability of parts is out there.

All good news for the original poster, B.C.490. I learned, as well.

Thanks for the reply, Dean.

The Rocker Arms on a 28 are offset, all previous are equal. This is to open the valves a bit further.

The engine is completely apart. There was water in the oil pan so subsequently flipping it around resulted in there being water all over the rest of it. I disassembled it with ease once I freed the flywheel. Once I started spraying it with penetrating lube, I won the battle.

The bearings are shot. The crank and cam appeared to be okay. Looking for a machine shop in Fort Lauderdale.

Long term storage in a humid environment will result in water in the oil pan. The crankcase takes in humid air as it gets cooler, the water condenses and does not exit when the temperature rises. Same thing happens to gasoline tank, particularly when not full of gasoline. That is why some many oil pans and gas tanks have rust holes.

Looks like the engine is in better condition than I expected from the prior descriptions.

Yeah, I was suprised too. I was hoping for the best but expecting the worst. I would post pictures, but I can't figure out how.

Stripped the 1928 head today. It was a little rougher than I initially thought. It took me a few hours to free all the valves. I cannot for the life of me free the coolant spout on the front of the head. I even used a breaker bar and impact gun after dousing it with oil. I am going to work on that problem on Sunday.

Has anyone ordered from Kanter Auto Products? I see they have valves, springs, pistons, rings, and such. I am pretty sure I am going to need all of the above.

I ordered my pistons from them and they were EGGE pistons which I was trying to avoid. I did use them and they have been fine, but you may want to do some research to see who actually manufactures the parts you order.

Egge! I was just researching the forum and saw that name. I was on their site when you posted. I didn't see what I was looking for, I might have to call.

You might want to try an ad in the parts wanted section as some members have parts that they are sometimes willing to part with. Also if you are a VCCA member there are vendors that advertise in the club magazine but do not do so on this chat site. The pistons most likely will come with pins and if so be sure to check your old ones as they may be oversize.

Over the last few months I wrapped up college. So, I am back in the trenches now that I have some free time.

The head, block, cam, and crank, went to the machine shop this morning. Waiting on the call for that financial beating.

I fiddled with the transmission afterwards.