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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 68
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 68 |
Does anyone know where one could purchase the S.S. moldings that are used on the bottom of the front door panels? I beleive they are P/N 4131833. Mine are not straight and some of the pins that go through the panel are rusted out. I am workinmg on 48 2dr Fleetline Areo sedan.
Thanks,
tom48
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 92
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 92 |
keep your eye on e-bay,there were some just last night.
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,578
ChatMaster - 3,000
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ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,578 |
Tom I have found the pieces I believe your referring to are very hard to find "with pins in good shape".I have a set which I know the day I install them and bend the pins to secure they will simply snap off.Although mine are straight I would sure like to know if the pins could be easily replaced or an alternate way to attach them???chef- 
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,951
ChatMaster - 4,000
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ChatMaster - 4,000
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,951 |
Hey Bruce,
I'd suggest you ask your "upholstery expert" about this pins problem situation.
My guy down here in the Portland area is great with stuff like that. However, even tho he's been in this country for 25 years his 'english' is hard to understand over the phone.
There must be somebody up there in the PS Region who can recommend a good upholstery guy.....
Bill.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 535
Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 535 |
Had a similar problem with the ss trim on my '50. I soldered in nails to the back side using low temp solder, then polished out the areas darkened from the heat with ss buffing compound. Two of the nails broke out trying to bend them but I had enough that held so the trim looks good. If I were to do it again I would use some softer wire instead of nails.
An alternative would be to try attaching the nails/wire with a bead of epoxy that would fill the channel. You could bend a "leg" so the epoxy would have more area to grip. Epoxy would eliminate the darkening due to the heat.
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 68
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 68 |
Hi chevy50jim very good idea! Did you use a torch or soldering iron? I think I could copper wire it would be plyable and stay bent.
Thanks alot,
tom48
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 92
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 92 |
Try spring washers on the pins, they only go on in one direction, and the pins do not have to be bent. You can achieve a flush mounting this way too.
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 68
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 68 |
Hi Guys, I went & purchased som silver solder & flux then used #14 copper wire for the pins. It came out very nice after polishing with buffer pad.
Thanks for all the thought starters,
tom48
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,578
ChatMaster - 3,000
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ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,578 |
I tried the epoxy method on the middle ss strip on the window molding with very little sucsess,solder sounds like the trick....... Does the 48 fleetline have the ss strip on the lower door panel???chef- 
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 68
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 68 |
Hi Chef it has 2 S.S. stripsone is at the seam where the leather meets the fabric and thwe other is 2 or 3" lower. Also there are holes punched in the door panel where the pins come through.
Hope this helps,
tom48
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