VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Over Heating

Have you had an over heating problem with your 1940 Chev? If so how did you solve it?

I put in an NOS 1941 Chevrolet Radiator. It fits perfectly and the problem was solved.

dtm

Thank you Mr. Toolman

when replacing the water pump,with radiator out of car, I removed the drain on the lower block and used my pressure cleaner to blow out as much crud from both ends as possible.As many have said on this site , there will still be a lot of crusty rush deep inside the block that will probably remain. Then I took my radiator to a repair shop and had it gone through. Have had no problems except when I was in the Apple Parade last summer in 88* heat and very slow going for a couple miles. Got close to 212* and trying to work the clutch gas brake and keep the RPMs up enough to circulate the water , was a little un-nerving , but getting the R`s up brought the temp down enough to make it through the parade. The last HOT day parade for this old chevy. You can only do so much to clean the system, without a engine teardown. Don`t forget reaming with the coat hanger any place you can while draining and flushing.....good luck........ps....other than the parade ...my 40` run cool 160*- 185*

I will be willing to bet you will have overheating problems with your '40.
First at best 1940s tend to run hot. Add in a block full of rust finding its way to the core and it is a no win problem.
The first thing I would do is flush out the block as best you can. The ideal was would be to remove the side freeze plugs and get rid of the rust before it finds its way to the core.

Thanks Guys. I'm taking these suggestions in.

Concur with Chevgene. '40s run hot. I've had mine since 1963 and have driven it over 360,000 miles and it has slways ran on the warm side. I have crossed Death Valley 4 times in the summertime (daytime) and the temp gauge hung on the low side of the red at 65 mph but never overheated. Today, I think we tend to forget that back in the day we checked the water and oil everytime we gassed up 'cause these cars used both oil and water. Water especially pre-pressure cap. If you had a car that didn't use oil between changes it was worth bragging on.

The '41 blocks and up had improved water circulation and did not run as hot as the '40s.

If a 6 or 7 blade steel fan was available to bolt on, would solve a lot of problems just by its ability to draw air and pass thru radiator , cooling the coolant. You would run easily all day in the heat at less or right around the preset thermostat temperature.

mike

Hi Back Roads,

We continue to rediscuss this topic thoroughly about every 4 months. Please checkout the posts made by Mike Buller. Here is a link to some of them. Overheating engines

Good luck, Mike

My 1940 was as well always very hot. I did drain radiator and motor and did fill in some chemical cleaners and did flush the system three or four times to wash out rust and dirt collected during decades. After that it is much better. Now the gauge goes just to the first red dot at the scale. Did never again reach the second red dot since cleaning. Seems I got the problem at the root which is dirt...

Stefangermany

never tried but ?

http://www.evanscoolants.com/

They sell inline filters that can be placed in one of the rad hoses. One model has a window so you can see when it is getting full. I think they might be useful.

AFTER thoroughly flushing out the block on my '36 truck, I installed a Gano filter on the upper radiator hose. Periodically I clean a bit of junk out of it, and I think it is a great thing to have on the cooling system.

Gano Filter