VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1946-1948 Hood adjustmentd

Would all hood adjustments have to be made with the springs removed? mine has to go rearwards about 1/4". I have found the posts about spring removal, and am prepared with a big bag of washers if need be.

Your manual will advise you on the proper method. In 41 all adjustments of the hood except, at the latch, required the springs be hanging loose. Thanks for using our index for advice. A lot of changes to alignment rely on the placement of the fenders, radiator support, and rubber moldings on the top of the firewall (if your year has them), so don't get too impatient with your results.

All adjustments should take into account how you would release the hood if the hood latch became stuck in the shut position!!! In my case I always remove the grill in my alignment process. I get everything aligned as best as I can, then mark the position of all the parts with masking tape, then reinstall the grill.

Good luck, Mike

How about removing the hood latch mechanism completely while adjusting the hood? Did you remove the grill because of lack of access with the hood closed?
I have a spare "pull wire" installed on my daily driver in case the main cable lets go. It is connected under the latch pull and comes out next to my front tyre, under the fender so you can reach in and yank it to open the hood. Would a set-up like this work on my Chevy if the hood jams closed?

With some effort you can get it un-latched through the grill...I have only locked myself out a couple times in 30 years. Adjust it properly the first time and tighten the wire nut real well!!!

I eliminated the hood release cable on my '46. I drilled out the hole on the latch where the cable attached and put in a short piece of threaded rod, maybe 4 inches long, through the hole secured by a nut on each side. After cutting my finger in the end of the threaded rod I then put a short piece of rubber tubing on the end to prevent that. I can now open my hood by placing my hand through the grill. It can't be seen from the outside. I didn't but if one wanted an original look you can put the cable in place but not connect it.

Now that a cool idea...I never did understand why most cars have interior hood releases

I suspect it was to help foil battery thefts.

Cheers, Dean

An interior hood release serves the same purpose as a lock on the exterior door handle.

The uniqueness of the 41 grill and positions of the sheet metal parts, around the latch, make it impossible to access the latch through the grill. Other years may provide this possibility. The only way to release a jammed latch is by removing the small passenger side inner fender that the horn is mounted to. This is easiest with the tire removed. Left handers would remove the drivers side. Then you reach up with a 16 inch or longer screw driver and pry at the latch until it releases. The longer your arm the easier it is. You need to use your arm with the most coordination and strength, that is why I recommended approaching the problem from one side for right handers and the opposite for left. I also use a set of vise grips to hold the release cable all the way out, as I fiddle with the latch.

I purchased a parts car with the nose of the hood completely cut off so the latch could be accessed. It probably took three guys, a six pack, and a torch, to figure that out!!!

A 41 grill has less than half an inch between its slats and can only be removed with the hood open.

Thanks, Mike

Thanks for all the replys and good ideas. I think I will first make mmy latch "unlockoutable" before I touch the hinge adjustment.
What Rustaholic said about getting your battery swiped made me think- I have a '60 Caddy which is opened from ouside (stock), no cable, but maybe they thought in those days-"If a guy can afford a Caddy, then he probably won't care too much if someone heists his battery!"

Yeah, and anything else under the hood worth stealing...

I had a 48 and the day came when I pulled on the hood release knob and it came out 9 inches. It only happened once. I made sure it wouldn't happen again.

Ouch...9 inches...? And the hood still opened...? Hope you didn't close it without a new cable...Sounds a bit odd...What did you do to make sure it didn't happen again...?

Sounds like the cable moved, but the hood latch didn't.

The inner cable went through a block and a screw threaded down through the block to locate the cable. Of course you should then turn the cable sideways as it exits the block. I hadn't done that. It was a long time ago so I have forgotten what I did but I have not forgotten the "Bloody hell" response.