VCCA Home Forums GENERAL DISCUSSION New User Forum 3.55 gear to fit my 1949 Styleline

I recently purchased a 1949 Styleline Deluxe to take on Southwest region tours with my father in law. Due to the many miles of freeway and open road around here I am installing a 235 (which I already have) and a set of 3.55 rear gears (which I do not have).

I have been told it is an easy swap but no one has provided any definitive information of what 3.55 gear set will work. My question is does anyone know the part numbers of a 3.55 gear set that will work in my 1949 rear case. Furthermore does anyone have a decent set they would like to sell. Filling station has a set that they say will work but is unable or unwilling to provide Chevrolet part numbers of the replacements.

I also have a couple of question about the 235 swap. Will the front motor mount plate from the 216 fit the 1958 235 motor that I purchased. Does anyone know of any mods I will have to make to accommodate the 235, Mounts, exhaust, linkage ECT.

I appreciate any input and I am in Tempe Arizona so if there is anyone in the vicinity with a 3.55 set that would be great.

My 235 in a 54 chev. had side motor mounts,no front plate...the 3.55 s are not hard to come by. Although PATRICKS CHeV. in Casa Grande specializes in chevy truck ,he may be a good source Also National Chevy in Minneapolis

gears
Click on gears. Our very on member has these.

The gear set will need to come from a 50-54 with powerglide as that used the55 ratio. Also the diff case is different so you will either need to get that with the gear set or use the complete differential assy. I just finished doing that change on my 51. The diff case on the 411 is about .200 thousandths thicker and the ring gear bolts a different length. Replacing the complete differential as a unit is the easiest way to make the change. I'm not sure about the 58 235, but I believe you will need to use the f/w hsg., clutch, mounts, etc from your 216. I am installing a 54 235 but not sure of/if any differences with the 58 as far as mounting. I am not sure if the new reproduction gear sets also require the above changes so you will need to check with those vendors. If Chevnut replies to this post he is very well versed on the swap and may be able to supply some additional information.

The www.fillingstation.com sells them , plus ALL other parts to install them and come with any BS . I recommend the filling station as I have always had excellent service from them, and they put back into our hobby as SPONSORS of Chevy Chatter here.
Basically great people and great service.

Changing the ring gear and pinion requires a considerable amount of mechanical knowledge and equipment. Most guys get the torque tube and differential housing from a 1950-1954 Power Glide and make the exchange. This requires disconnecting the U joint, removing the center section from the banjo housing, etc. Does require pulling out the axle shafts which requires removing some differential parts such as the side and pinion gears.


To install the 1958 235 engine will require drilling holes for the front motor mounts in the front mounting plate of the engine. Re mounts attach to you present fly wheel housing. If you are keeping the 6 volt system you must used the 1949 flywheel and clutch.

I am not well verist in what's up with the finding the proper parts for the change in gear ratio...I'm just happy my previous owner just swapped the whole rear end, thus saving time with finding parts ( but for the rear end ) and the problem was solved...Well, except for the brakes and such...Good Luck...!

If you have concerns about installing new gears, have a gear and differential specialist do the work for you. That will give you a lot of piece of mind whilst driving down the freeway.

Cool
I will search out that rear end.

What changes in the flywheel and clutch need to be made for the 12 volt conversion. I can only guess the teeth? That being the case what clutch and fly should I search for?

No changes to the flywheel are necessary unless you need to make changes for another reason. If you are going to change the starter you should be able to find one that the has the same number of teeth on the Bendix.

If a 12 volt starter is used the 1958 fly wheel is necessary.
If the 6 volt system is retained the 6 volt 1949 flywheel must be used. This is due to different diameters and tooth counts.

Is it possible to convert the current 6 volt starter to 12 volt and nice versa by changing the field coils? I am keeping the 6 volt system on the 235 I am installing in my 51, but the previous owner did a 12 conversion and the starter is rebuilt so I would like to use it seeing as it has been rebuilt.

A 6 volt starter can be converted to 12 volts, but you can run a 6 volt starter on a 12 volt system with no problem as long as the starter is not engaged for an extended period of time.

Thanks to everyone for there input. I think I have it figured out. I do also need a radiator for the 49. It was the only piece missing from the rust free Arizona beauty. Arizona being the key word (Translates to hot) Any suggestions on a replacement radiator?

Your starter even at6 volts will work well. I've been on a 12volt system with a 6 volt starter for 14 years..You will love spin rate of a 6 on12.

My six volt starter is the original from the 51 216. The 54 engine I have came with a 12 volt rebuilt starter. From previous post ( if memory serves me correct-and sometimes does not) the 54 starter has better torque capacity. I would like to convert that 12 volt starter back to 6 volts. Can I do that simply by changing the field windings?

Skipper,
What he really wants to know is what does he have to do to the rebuilt 12 volt starter on the engine he is using so he can use it with 6 volt system? Will an armature change do it? Change the fields? or get a new starter?

He is one of those guys using a 12 volt engine in a 6 volt car and wanting to stay a 6 volt car! I know he is bucking the trend but should be encouraged since he is following the advise of all us "experts" (at least on the voltage thing).

Chipper you are almost correct-I just want to change it BACK to what it was as the 54 engine was 6 volt originally. I know I could use my 51 6 volt starter, but if the 54 starter was better I would rather not go backwards. The reason the above post says it came with a 12 volt starter is the hot rodder I got the engine from changed it over.

Seeing as your in Arizona where there are several scrap yards I would try to find a used radiator with good upper and lower tanks and then have it recored.

If you want to keep the original "tanks..."

If not there are several vendors that can supply a radiator that will fit for less than $200.00. Just do a Google search.

If you live in Arizona and using a larger, more powerful 235 engine, your going to need all the cooling you can get.

Yes Chev Nut I'm with you on that. I've looked at those cheap radiators on line but have little faith they will hold up. I'm going to do a mock up and put the 235 in. I want to see if I can modify a larger capacity radiator to fit. So to recap I believe I know where to get the modified 3.55 rear gear set to fit my housing. I can do the mods on the 216 motor mount to fit the 235. I'm going to find a good solution to the radiator issue. I have a grasp on the partial 12 volt conversion. I haven't gotten any responses on the carb linkage. Oh and how the hell do you get those hood springs back on. They were removed when I got the car. I have heard its a pain.

Hood Springs by Bob Hayden. Old car manual project by Keith Hardy
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/miscellaneous/hoodspring.htm
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/miscellaneous/images/InstallSpringsTool.mpg
Bob Hayden