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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 428
Backyard Mechanic
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OP
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 428 |
Hi guys - got a real easy set of questions. I installed a original radio in my '50 Deluxe, and ready to finish up. The car had no radio when it came out of the factory, so the power connection and antenna will be new add-ons.
a) where under the dash do I best tie in the power source?
b) where exactly on the fender is the antenna mounted, that is, would it be X inches from point A and x inches from point B, or similar?
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
The power sorce is on the under the left side of the dash where the heater is connected to.
The antenna location is tee same for 1949-1952 if that helps....if you don't get a reply soon I will have to go out in the cold and measure my '50.
Last edited by Chev Nut; 11/06/14 10:27 PM.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1
Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
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Normally the radio is connected to the ON position of the ignition switch. That is a good/bad place to connect. By connecting to the ON position of the ignition switch you can't go off and leave the radio on but the volume so low you can't hear it. This will run the battery down quickly if left on. So the next place you could connect is the draw side of the amp-meter. The good part of this position is that you don't have the extra draw of the radio through the ignition switch which really doesn't need any more work to do. And, the best solution is the installation of a power block which has terminals for the items you want to operate at any time and the other side of the panel is connected to the ignition switch for the only ON with the ignition switch. I have these power blocks if needed. As to the antenna, I suggest you purchase either a NOS antenna just for your car or purchase a NORS just for your car. If you purchase either of those antennas they will come with a template locating the necessary holes to drill. Hope we have answered most of your questions.  
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
The 1949 and 1950 has kind of a built in junction block on the left lower side of the instrument panel not to be confused with the accessory junction block.
More can be seen by removing the access door on the firewall. Then you can see behind the dash. The fuse holder that came with the radio threaded into the block. If the car has a heater one terminal will already be used.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,294
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
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The template is the only way to go. If the hole is not located right the antenna will not set straight.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 428
Backyard Mechanic
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OP
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 428 |
Hi guys - Great feedback so far. Here's where I'm at so far:
1) I've pulled off the firewall plate and can see inside. That's handy to know by itself!
2) There are two junction blocks I'm seeing, so to be 100% clear on the advice:
a) are you guys referring to the strip junction box that's directly below the instrument cluster slightly to the *right* (as viewing from the firewall - what the Service Manual schematic calls the "Inst. Panel Junct. Block"), or you mean...
b) the junction box that's mounted directly behind the heater knobs selection cluster (further below and to the right of the instrument cluster, again as looking through the firewall)?
c) the radio has two wires:
i) one has a fuse with a small set screw at the end - so,
that's the power line that, Chev Nut, you said gets
directly screwed *into* the junction box..?
ii) the other is unclear - would that be the power for the
radio's light, and so gets wired on to the dash light
switch?
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
I emailed the junction block installation instructions from the 1950 accy. installation manual
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 428
Backyard Mechanic
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OP
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 428 |
Hi guys - Got the junction box from Ray, and installed it last night. Looks good to go. One last odd thing: the heat, defrost, and fan controls on the far left driver side, under the dashboard, have cables that run around the back of the dash to the heater fan and ductwork. These touch hard against the box. I jury-rigged some duct tape and shoe lace to tie up the cables and keep them from touching the block, but, there of course has to be a cleaner solution. What do you normally do to keep those cable runs from touching the box and causing a short?
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 428
Backyard Mechanic
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OP
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 428 |
Okay, here's my latest update: as mentioned in the previous post, I put the radio and speaker in, and it all looks good except for those heater cables running across the junction box.
I got the antenna kit yesterday, so it looks good for installing everything. Whatever you guys recommend for the heater cables will be the last closing item that I need!
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