VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 1929 Head Check - Valves

Now that I am having my Rocker Arms resurfaced & rebuilt, I am going to double check the rest of the TOP HALF of the engine as well.

Is there ANY WAY to Check the Valves (Intake & Exhaust), Valve Springs, Valve Spring Caps, Valve Keys?? Want to make sure they are in condition to run & operate. Any way to I cad tell if they are GOOD or NEED to be replaced WITH OUT Removing the HEAD ??

Yeah I am NOT going to drive my car a million miles in a year, but i do WANT it to RUN Properly and not have to be worried about something breaking or coming apart. yeah I KNOW it is an Antique and poo happens. just trying to be preventative and proactive. Since I am in there Want to check out the other parts as well !!

Figure look it all over check it out, assess it, and replace it if needed...

A compression test would be about the only way to check the valves. With out removing the valves and springs there probably is no positive way.

The 1929-1933 were known for the keeper either breaking or pulling through the valve spring cap. I suppose you could inspect those parts and keep some spares handy.

Thanks, Sounds like a good test...

could also do a Leak down Test, see IF the Cylinders will hold Compression. I know that each cylinder has about 75 PSI when last checked. NEED to see if it will hold compression and how long it can or how long till it drops x amount of PSI.

Will also do a GOOD LOOKY SEE and see if there are ANY VISIBLE Sings of Wear n Tear. Double checking the CAPs n Keys.

Ok Went out Last night and looked at the Valves, Springs, Retainer Caps, And Retainers (keys)

Looking at them the end of the Valves look great, BUT I do not see the Keys that look like the picture on TFS of C&P ?!?

Are these the right valve Caps & Retainers on my 1929 ??
Valve Assembly Pict 01
Valve Assembly Pict 02
Valve Assembly Pict 03
Valve Assembly Pict 04
Valve Assembly Pict 05
Valve Assembly Pict 06

From the looks, they look like they have either been REBUILT or REPLACED, in the parts box I got with the car, there was a used valve or two in there and 7 Valve Springs. No Retainer Caps or Keys.

Thanks...

Doesn't look like it. Again.....check your 1929-32 Chevrolet parts book. There are illustrations of the correct valve cap and key in the parts book.

The valve cap and key are the same from 1929 thru 1932.

Yeah that is my thought...
compared it to the manual and what TFS & C&P sells as well, does not match up, Any CLUE to what style, vintage they are ?? Also are they acceptable to keep and use or ??

Does seem the Head is 1929, Casting Number 835503 Date Code E 2 9, May 2 1929.

Can someone provide me with some Measurements ?? Looking for stock springs on a 1929 Engine...

I need to know what the distance is from the top machined surface of the head (where the spring sits) to the TOP of the Valve Stem. WHEN THE VALVE IS CLOSED !! I want to see what the STOCK is vs what I have.


Then the Length of the SPRING from Same machined Surface up to the top of the Spring, NOT INCLUDING THE CAP.


GREATLY APPRECIATE IT...

I had my head pressure and vacuum tested for leaks before reassembly

The picture of the valves and valve spring show that the valves have been replaced with modern valves with collets. The original 1929 valves had a flat metal key. The spring height may be different due to a variety of changes which may have occurred in the change over. The springs may be more compressed or less compressed , and may not coincide with what an unmodified head measurement is.
I think what would be of most importance here would be the length of valves , as too long a valve or too short a valve will change the rocker arm contact geometry.

Jack...

I agree hence why I am looking for STOCK numbers for the two components per the pictures. so I figure out if I need a valve job :/ New Valves, Springs, Caps (Retainers), Keys... Head Machining

When I first saw your picture of the rockers and springs, I thought that they had a very steep angle to them. They seem to be going up hill a long way. Looking at the rockers , they too seem to have been built up on the valve contact end a long way
by welding.

The amount of angulation between the push rods and the adjusting stud in the rockers looks far from correct.

The did not see the valve pictures until today. The keepers and spring retainers look like 1948 and up. The 1935 was the first to have thsoe 2 piece split keepers. The springs look much "stronger" THAN THOSE FROM A 1929. iF IT WERE MINE AND THE ENGINE WAS RUNNING ok i WOULD NOT TOUCH THE VALVES, KEEPERS, ETC.
The head is a '29 and the rocker arms should have the 8355449 casting number on them.
If the area of the rocker arm that contacts the top of the valve stem does not have a wear spot I would not do any thing with the rocker arms unless they fit very loose on the rocker shafts....Then I would just replace the brass bushings in the rocker arms and shafts if they show wear.

835549 is what I read on the rocker arms.

Thanks guys... hopefully will get someone to post me some numbers and then I can compare mine and see where we stand.

I do NOT want to do a valve job, however if it is needed to make the car operate more efficiently and effectively I guess it will get done ;/

I know per my MPL that the 1929 Valves are the same for Intake & Exhaust, 1.406" Dia head. and in later years Intake & Exhaust were different Diameters.

Question is are the Valves 1929-1932 the same overall length, from valve face to end of valve stem ?? if not are ANY of these years the same length ?? will help with my measurements i need above.

Without removing your valves there is no way of knowing what they are from or how they have been modified to work in a 1929 head. To have the split keepers they are much later than 1929. The stem length could have been shortened and diameter changed.
As I mentioned before, if the compression inOK and it runs OK forget about the valves.

I agree with Chevgene, if ain't broke don't fix it (or, conversely, as they used to say on the Red Green show - if it ain't broke, you're not tryin' hard enough). Anyway, for some additional info on the 1929, try taking a look at the Vehicle Information kit available from the GM Heritage Center:

https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits.html

Unfortunately, the one for 1929 is hard to read, but on page 56 of the PDF file, it lists the valve length (intake and exhaust) for the 1929 motor as 4 23/32". It also gives some comparisons to the 1930 motor (an addendum added later I would guess), but valve length is not one of the comparisons.

Good luck with your project and

Happy Motoring,

Dan

I agree. If everything is well and good.....leave it alone.

Dan Funny you mention that...
I have the PDF in my files, and here is what I have deciphered from that page:

Intake & Exhaust Valve
Make: Own
Material: Extruded Steel
Head Diameter Nominal: 1 11/32
Stem Length: 4 23/32
Stem Dia: 5/16
Style of Stem Mod: Key
Tappet Clearance: .006 Hot Int & .008 Hot Exh
Spring Pressure: 45 lb Valve Closed
Valve Lift: .277

Are Stem Guides Removable: Yes
Are Oversize Valve Stems Made: No
Overhead Valve Lubrication: Yes

(Consider they are the same valves) Page breaks it into TWO columns, one for Intake one for Exhaust.

Yes I agree to leave it alone..

My concern is IF the valves are too long, that puts the rocker arms at higher angle impacting HOW they contact the Valve stems. This would cause the rocker arm to PUSH the stem OUTWARDS more then downwards, ending in premature wear and tear on the rockers and how the valves seat, maybe stressing the valve stems more then necessary.

If the valves are too long the adjusting screws will not be in the center of their travel.
From the pictures they appear to be within the normal range.

I think it would be a good idea to check the push rod length as they also could have been changed to center the adjusting screw. I don't have a 29 engine to look at, but the arm to valve angle sure looks strange to me.

that would be good check as well, per the info I have the overall length should be 12" from end to end, including the Cap.

Still would like the numbers to double check...

also looking for photos of other 1929 engines NO Cover !!

I agree with you Steve.
The rocker face which contacts the valve stem looks to be a brazed up repair looking at the golden colour, might have been done with hard facing bronze.

I have read many, many comments on how you are putting this 29 back to perfect and original, I would put the right valves and springs and keepers in. Been there and done that. It is hard to sale to the next person and say its "almost". Roger