VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Cam Gear Replacement for 216 Motor

Hi. I have to replace the cam gear on my 216. My questions are as follows:

1. Does this gear just pull off?
2. Can I just replace the one gear or do I have to do them both?
3. The hole in the center- is this a threaded hole that I can use to press the new gear on or do I have to use a different tool?
4. is it just a matter of pulling the gear off and pressing the new one on or do I have to find top dead center or what?
5. Where the hell are the timing marks? Incidentally, this motor came from a 51 and I'm putting it in my 38 business coupe.

Thanks for any help. here's a pic:

A follow up on this. I found this online: The old timers would heat the cam gear hub with a torch, and it will pull off the cam. Then they would put the new aluminum cam gear in the oven, on 500 degrees, and preheat the gear, grab it with gloves, and slide it on the cam aligning the timing marks. The repair manual says to remove the cam, and remove the old gear in a press, so you do have some options.

Opinions on doing it this way?

Actually you do not align any timing marks. The cam and gear have a special relationship. Place the key in the keyway on the cam, and then align the cam gear to match the keyway. It will only go one one way.

Read the thread "Restoring myy 1938 Master Deluxe"...All the questions will be answered there..by the looks of your engine I would remove the engine front mounting plate and clean the oil grove on the back of the plate. This grove brings the oil down from the front main bearing to the cam oil nozzle. 99% of them are plugged and the gear getting little or no oil.
There is a mark on the fiber gear tooth and on the steel gear between the teeth (or vise/versa) . These marks must line up when the gears are installed. Get a new ttwo piece retaing plate (goes behing cam gear and bolts to block.
Don't be afraid to ask more questions as you go along.

Thanks much for the responses! Just want to get my car back on the road. My original motor is sitting in a crate until the day I can dump $2500 plus into it. :-)

As suggested after you pull the gears take the mounting plate off and clean the oil feed passage behind it.

The easiest way I have found to get the gears off is to drill a 1/4" hole parrallel to the key (being careful not to go too deep into the keeper plate) and then spreading the gear to slide off.

The timing marks (the dot on each gear) are nearly lined up in the photo above.

Tony

OH, yeah, I see the marks now. Thanks! I will take the plate off and make any necessary corrections. Good idea with the drill hole. I think I'll try that.

Phil

Stop!

Don't replace it. It looks good to me. So why do that?

Also, you can see the timing marks. It appears that they're only about two teeth off from being mated.

Surely this cam (they're tough, can last until you accumulate enough SS checks or sell enough corn (ethanol) to rebuild/overhaul the original engine.

Don't use no stinkin aluminum gear. They make a noise where no more noise is needed. The use of fiber and steel is a long lasting combination. That's why Chevrolet used it so many years. Think! Take a sip of ethanol You must be the type of guy who loves a Fulton.

(NOTE; I'M JUST KIDDING ABOUT TAKING A SIP OF ETHANOL. DON'T DO THAT. AS A MINIMUM IT WILL PROBABLY QUICKLY EAT A HOLE STRAIGHT THROUGH YOU'RE INNARDS!)

It looks like it is getting plenty of oil now. Use 10w-30 FULL SYNTHETIC and enough will seep through to do the job. It doesn't take much.

Good luck,

Charlie :computer

BTW: If you're going to replace it anyway, just take a hammer and bust it. Use a chisel at the hub. Don't worry about scaring nothing. It won't be enough to matter. And, if you insist on the aluminum gear at least take the Fulton off.

I think you want to use a press for the camshaft gear. I believe it gets pressed on until there is just the specified clearance between the spacer and the cam. If you get that too tight, the cam won't turn.

A machinist told me that the easiest way to get the crankshaft gear off is to hit it with a chisel between teeth, right near the keyway. He said that the gear is hard and will crack.

Yes, it is best to press it on. If you used a new two piece retainer you can just preess it on until it bottoms as the inner ring will prevent it from going too tight. The inner ring is a few thousands thicker tan the plate.