Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#321444 10/15/14 03:14 PM
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Awhile back we talked about setting valves. You can set all the valves with just a couple of turns on the crank. Can you run that by me again on witch cylinders to check at the same time? Thanks

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rjp #321445 10/15/14 03:29 PM
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I looked up valve settings on the search and did not see that. What should have looked up? And thanks a lot for your quick answer Roger

rjp #321510 10/16/14 02:08 AM
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"Setting Valves" in the 1929-32 forum.

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Question about Setting Valves...

In my 1929 Chevrolet Repair Manual it states .008" gap for BOTH Intake and Exhaust Valves.

In my 1929 Inst for Oper and Care it states .006" gap on Intake, .008" gap for Exhaust.

With this difference, what SHOULD be Used. I set mine via the 1929 Inst for Oper and Care with .006" gap on Intake, .008" gap for Exhaust.

I did STOP engine and do warm adjustments at that time, I tried to do it while idling, but guess it takes some practice and skill not to damage your feeler gauges and adjust.


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I've always done '29's the same as 31's or 32's. .006" intake and .008 exhaust.

The trick is to slow the engine idle down and you can adjusts the valves really easy. With it at a really high idle it's hard.


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It is definitely .006" for the intake and .008" for the exhaust.

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I have always set our '31 valves at .008 and .010 after I burnt a valve about 40 years ago. Haven't had any problems and don't know if it hurts ao helps anything.


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Do you set them hot or cold? The only thing I think it would do is perhaps be to have a little more clatter.


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So ......Who amongst you sets their valves using a vacuum gauge?
Why or why not?
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I set the valves hot.

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I set mine hot and 0.008 across intake and exhaust. Small amount of clatter but not much...About like a treadle sewing machine.

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When setting using vacuum, I assume, the valve is tightened until the reading fluctuates, then backed off just until the needle stops fluctuating, then locked down?

If engine is up to operating temp, and the vacuum is not fluctuating at idle, and there is no clatter, is it safe to assume that valves are good to go?
Dale

Originally Posted by Junkyard Dog
I set the valves hot.

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Hello akdale,
I would be afraid to set solid lifter valves so close to the fine line between perfect and damaging. I would use the clatter, ( ticking noise) as an indication of being on the safe side when setting the valve lash.

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I have tried to keep my '31 Phaeton valves at .006 and .008 on and off for about 30 years now, but they are quite noisy. Had new valves, springs, guides installed and guides reamed as stated in the manual still valves appear too noisy in my opinion. Also has a new rocker arm shaft, new rocker bushings, new adjusters, and rocker arm ends reground. Engine has almost 5,000 miles on it after the rebuild and runs well. The pushrods 'appear' to be straight as well. Placing a feeler gauge between valves and rocker arms will quiet each valve, but again with correct gap they seem too noisy. Oil is flowing as it should. Engine seems 'stiff' could the guides be too tight causing the valves to 'stick' maybe? (once on a trip going downhill, the #6 exthaust valve stuck open, but a light tap with a hammer and oil from the dipstick took care of that and it has never happened again.) My '31 Spcl sedan does not have this 'problem', it has a good used head with original valves and guides that I found at a swap meet years ago and installed as I found it. VCCA 18184

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I do mine hot and while engine is running, and using a vacuum gauge.

When using the gauge, you still use a filler gauge to set the valves. I also used the next size filler to check my adjustment. So if a .007 goes in on when I set it to .006, I'm not right. Also you will see this on the vacuum gauge when this valve opens.

Last edited by 32confederate; 10/23/14 03:04 PM.

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I am interested in How you do this with a Vacuum gauge, mainly WHERE do you Connect the Vacuum Gauge ??

I have used the vacuum gauge to adjust the idle/ throttle, connecting the vacuum gauge to the intake manifold connection where the wiper connects.


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I hook up to where the wiper gets its vacuum from on the intake.

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Thanks for the response.
Been thinking about this procedure tho.

If a person is accurate with the feelers, then the vacuum gauge is just used to check the job.

Does anyone here use only the vacuum gauge for setting lash?
Thanks,
Dale
Originally Posted by 32confederate
I do mine hot and while engine is running, and using a vacuum gauge.

When using the gauge, you still use a filler gauge to set the valves. I also used the next size filler to check my adjustment. So if a .007 goes in on when I set it to .006, I'm not right. Also you will see this on the vacuum gauge when this valve opens.

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Anyone?

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Feeler gauge for me. When the valves stuck on my new rebuilt head I had them check all the guides and found that they were at .002 not .003 or more, redid and much better Roger


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