Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Stlbud Offline OP
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I drilled out the rivets to detach the rusted steel brackets from my headlight buckets so I could send them out for chrome. What should I use to reattach the brackets? Do they make rivets that match the originals? What color do they get painted? Mine were so rusted and pitted, I have no idea what color they were originally.
I did rebuild the wiring harnesses back to the original - springs and contacts. At some point, previous owners had pulled it all out and ran wires through the bucket holes to the reflector bulbs.

Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


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I used rivets to put them back together. Don't remember the size or where I got them as it was many years ago. Will need to take a few more apart in the next several months so need to get more rivets. The rivet heads are not important as they are inside and can't be seen. The peened shaft is what shows from the outside.

The steel parts are painted gloss black.


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You can probably get the rivets from this place>
Rivet for Car enthusiasts
You can measure the diameter of the holes with a steel rule or pair of verniers to get the correct diameter.

Probably brazier head is the closest.


JACK
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Just checked a set of headlights and found that the rivet heads are large and flat. Brazier head as suggested would be best. If you can't find them then round head with a washer to spread the load should be okay.


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I used rivet head bolts that look just like the original on the outside, that way there is no worry about trying to peen the rivet from the inside. The Filling Station sells a packet of these that is enough to do the job. If you would like a picture send me your email address and I will send them to you.


Sal Orlando
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That's a good suggestion to use a "rivet/bolt". I used these to reassemble my radiator shell after I had it plated. (These "rivet" the radiator shell to the cross brace at the bottom of the radiator shell.) One further suggestion: I found that water had gotten between the headlight bucket and the bracket, caused rust and swelled the bottom of the headlight bucket. I solved the problem by putting a bead of Eastwood's "seam sealer" around the perimeter of the headlight bracket before reassembly. After reassembly, I wiped off the excess seam sealer. Water will never get in there again.


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Stlbud Offline OP
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My email is stlbud@cox.net I'd be interested in finding a good match in rivet bolts from the Filling Station. I'm not sure I'm comfortable with torching a rivet to peen it in my newly chromed bucket. The rivet site mentions an air tool that "works well" but I don't own anything that compresses rivets. Has anyone peened rivets, or does everyone use rivet bolts?

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I have used an air impact muffler tool to peen rivets on a frame crossmember but would not want to try it on a chrome headlight bucket. I think using the rivet/bolts is the best solution.


Steve D
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Sal,
The problem with rivet head bolts is that the head is inside of the headlight bucket and the peened end is outside. If bolts are substituted then the nuts will show.

I have used an air gun with rivet peening tool. I heat the rivet shank and then peen it. Not a problem with heat if you are careful as the steel bottom is between the rivet and chrome body.


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Chipper: The bolts in question are not actually bolts with nuts. The fasteners are a male and female with a head on one end that looks like a rivet . If you are familiar with "Chicago Screws" then you can picture what these fasteners actually look like.


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On my radiator I used stainless carriage bolts with a 10/24 nut lock and flat washer on the back side with red permanent strength locktight. The headlight brackets are closer to 3/16 -1/4 inch. The brackets are painted and the rivet's could be substituted with the same. Your local hardware supply should be able to set you up. If you have a drill press you can profile the head of the bolt to look like a rivet.

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I am only familiar with the rivet head bolts used to attach the hood latches and handles in early 6 cyl Chevys. Guess I need to google Chicago screws (hope I find hardware items).

Later: I googled Chicago screws and found an item that would not look anything like the outside peened end of the rivets holding the headlights together.

Last edited by Chipper; 10/16/14 10:24 PM. Reason: more info

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Ya, I have used "Chicago Screws" on items that required rivets like headlight buckets, radiator shells and the like. They work great and they look like rivets when in place. All ya gotta do is screw them together and you are done!

https://www.chicagoscrews.com/

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I would say that the stainless bolt is installed with the nut on the inside of the headlight.

Rivets were used on the headlight bucket attach brackets due to the vibration experienced and reducing the likelihood of bolts shaking loose. Also speed of production assembly.

If you are using bolts to replace the rivet, I would cut the bolt down to just protruding through the nut on the inside, and then still peen them to give mechanical locking.


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The rivet/bolt that I used has the nut and lock washer on the inside of the headlight bucket. The rivet head is on the outside. I have put 6000 miles on the car since it was restored and haven't had a problem with them.


Sal Orlando
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I debated this restoration dilemma last year. I found a company in California that sells riveting tools, machines and rivets. They do contract riveting- you need to send them your chromed pcs with brackets so they can see if it will fit into there machines. They have a minimum charge.

What I ended up doing was- removing the chrome and keeping the brackets and rivets in place. Using a Dremel tool I sanded out all the pitting, and using a die to resurface the threads on the brackets, removed dents from headlight. They are ready to be painted black to match the fenders etc. the rings were re chromed and the reflectors were resurfaced by a guy up in Oregon or Washington that makes them shine brighter than silvering and they do not tarnish. All the wiring was refurbished and new gaskets as well. This was a time consuming task but well worth it...
As far as restoration goes- my preference was to keep original and that included the original rivets.
Jmm


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I checked some 1931 and 1932 headlight buckets over the weekend , and the original rivet heads on the inside of the headlight bucket are definitely a rivet head very close to the brazier head, with the outside tail (shop head).. formed on assembly of the bracket to the housing.


JACK

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