VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Is 1940 216 engine with cracked block salvageable?

Haven't posted in a very long time, but have otherwise been enjoying my 1940 Master Deluxe for the past 2 years or so. During that time, I have put approximately 3,000 miles on the car. Unfortunatley, the fiber timing gear gave out recently and during the tear down process, I can see a two cracks at the base of the block just behind the rockers. The telltale sign is coolant seepage at the cracks, along with a whiteish/oily foam residue on the inside of the pushrod cover. One crack appears to be 3-4 inches in length, and the other 2-3 inches long.
Is the the block is salvageable without major expense? If so, how and how costly? I am considering replacing with 235 engine, but will need to track one down if I go that route....
If anyone has a good 235 please let me know..
Thanks Bob Haessly (608) 444-6342

Hi Bob,

I haven't tried this, but there is a method of repairing cracks in blocks called metal stitching. You can do this work yourself and doesn't seem to be too expensive.
Here's more info: http://www.locknstitch.com/metal_stitching.htm

Cheers, Dean

I have a spare 1940 216 block that I would sell. But I live in Ohio so you might want to look for a block closer to home. But in any case, have the block magnafluxed so that you know that it is a good one. Why have one repaired when there should be a block available somewhere in the world. In my area, I love to talk with street rodders. Many of them want to throw away the original 1940 drivetrain or they sell it to me for a reasonable amount. That is why I am sitting on 2 spare complete engines. I have already sold 2 complete engines in folks looking to keep their 1940 Chevys original.

If you are going to Hershey, stop by and pick it up in Ohio on your way home.

dtm

dtm

I do the same as the toolman. I have two extra 216 blocks (1949,1947) and three extra heads that I have salvaged from hot rodders. I just purchased an engine with a repaired block. I am anxious to see if the repair is still okay. I will post pictures of the repaired area when the engine is delivered.

Good luck, Mike

About 20 years ago I overheated my 28 and cracked the block. I tapped the ends of the crack, screwed in a couple of brass threads and put Chemiweld into the water. That solved the problem for about 10 years. I then had to take the head off for a repair and when it was put back on the head bolts were overtightened and the crack opened up and spread. Time for a replacement block which I had obtained as insurance.
That was about right for me. I didn't consider metal stitching as there were a lot of good blocks around.

Thanks for all responses...nice to know that 216 blocks are still available. My neighbor has used JB Weld on his cracked 29 Nash block so I may consider trying that option first....

In 1963 GM came out with the 230 CID engines. They were a completely new engine featuring very thin cast iron in the blocks. A great cost savings move on GM's part.
At the time I worked for a very large company that bought a large fleet of '63 Chevy C10 pickups, all with the 230 CID engine. In a little over a year many of the blocks cracked in the left side water jacket, under the exhaust manifold. I put K&W block sealer in several of these engines, following the directions, then put coolant back into the engine in a couple of days.. Most of the engines stayed together until they were worn out.. My own personal company truck went over 100K before it was replaced..

Thanks for all responses...I continue to move ahead with 216 engine disassembly work. Yesterday, I pulled the camshaft and the fibergear is ruined due to lack of lubrication due to plugged oil passage so I need to pull the front(motor mount) plate to clean oil passage behind. Can i pull the front plate with engine still in the car?? I hate to pull the engine if I can avoid it..How do I block the front of the motor? Thsnks

You can "unfasten" the front mounting plate with the engine in the car. Just that the front of the engine must be supported. Note there are various lengths and types of screws/bolts holding the plate to the block. Also must used the correct gasket behind the plate. The 37-48 gasket is different from the 1949 and up due to changes in the oil passage.

Survivor,

To street rod builders those engines are worthless scrap iron. When I was looking for 3.55 gears to fit a '37-'54 rear end and a '37 rear end to put them in I met street rod builders who tried to give me 216 engines. Some of those guys had to actually pay to have them hauled away.

Unless you're in a rush you'll find a local free one.