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I recently had my trans rebuilt and as I work through some issues getting it back together and working well, I have a question.
Is it likely that the shifting or gear locations will change slightly?
For example will 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and Reverse be in slightly different locations than I'm use to in order to get it to shift smoothly without grinding?
As I try to shift into the locations of where I'm use to them being- it now grinds. As I had someone else give it a short test drive, and although the clutch still needs to be adjusted better, my buddy had less problems shifting into the gears.
Any thoughts
47 Aerosedan 41 Cabriolet
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Please explain what you mean by 1st, 2nd, 3rd are in different locations?
dtm
the toolman 60th Anniversary Meet Chairperson Dave VCCA # L 28873 VCCA #83 Tool Technical Advisor for 1914-1966 VCCA #83 1940 Chevrolet Technical Advisor
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Joined: Mar 2007
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Backyard Mechanic
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Please explain what you mean by 1st, 2nd, 3rd are in different locations?
dtm Meaning I'm use to usually moving the shifter into a very specific location to get into 1st gear. Is it possible this location would be different after a rebuild such as an inch higher or maybe an inch closer to the driver in respect to where I position the shift lever to get into first gear.
Last edited by Fleetboy; 09/24/14 09:32 PM.
47 Aerosedan 41 Cabriolet
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If it is a column shift you may have the linkage rods adjusted slightly different would make a slight difference in position. Also in the rebuild you probably removed some unwanted clearances could make some more difference. Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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Hi Fleetboy, Transmission shifting problems are covered regularly on our VCCA chat site. Our best advice to you is to do an Advanced Search of this topic. That process I have discussed in a link below with the advice of others who have dealt with this issue. Transmission won't shift Please keep us informed of your progress and thoroughly describe your final solution so others might continue to benefit from your repair. Pictures are especially beneficial. It is also very possible that your problem is caused by non linkage related problems like proper torque tube installation, the condition of your engine mounts, and other areas that are worn. The above link should begin to point you in other areas of concern when addressing shifting issues. Good luck, Mike I just did an Advance Search on all the past posts you have done relating to your transmission issues since June of 2012. So I now know the extent of your trying to deal with transmission issues. We all tend to assume others have been following our posts through the years and should know the background of our problem. We need to find a better way of posting questions and answers so we more clearly know what things a poster has already tried, and the person's background in doing mechanical repairs. In most cases the more info a poster includes in his post questions the better we will be able to help them.
Last edited by Mike Buller; 09/25/14 08:44 AM.
Mike 41 Chevy
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Is the vacuum assist still in place and in good condition? If so there shouldn't be any detectable difference assuming the rod linkage has not been messed with. Sounds to me like something is screwed up. Charlie 
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Backyard Mechanic
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I'm trying to figure this problem out...
Can I get some help on where the "throwout arm to ball stud clip" goes.
As of right now it's not installed, I can't figure out where it goes.
It's part # 838987 on chevs of the 40's
47 Aerosedan 41 Cabriolet
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My car is not here right now or I'd go out and look...But, like Charlie  had mentioned...Is the vacuum shift still installed...? Have to clear that up first...
Last edited by kevin47; 10/01/14 11:54 PM.
1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
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Hi Fleetboy, Just make sure the bow in the clip is facing you so it will slip easily over the throw out arm ball (see third picture). Put a covering of multipurpose grease on the ball, and in the throw out arm socket, when you fit it in place. I use a needle point pliers to collapse the clip, a little, to help get it in place. Aligning the arm with the ball takes a little finagling as does pressing on the arm to the ball with the spring in place. It kind of just pops on and needs to be pried off to be removed. Your manual is a good place to verify what you should be doing and aware of, and a little patience is helpful. Your manual will also go over the correct greasing of the throwout bearing. Excessive grease/oil any where near the clutch/pressure plate/flywheel is not good. It is recommended that the face of the flywheel be machined when replacing the clutch/pressure plate, and installed with out any contaminants on it. I whip mine down with lacquer thinner and install it with clean latex gloves. Good luck, Mike P.S. If you have not done a lot of taking off and putting on of your transmission from the engine/drivetrain you want to take your time, and be well aware of how to deal with the weight of the various parts. There are accidents waiting to happen so please keep posting your questions. All of this work is more easily done with the engine out of the car. We have also cover most of it in past posts, which are available through your doing an ADVANCED SEARCH of our old posts. ![[Linked Image from i1321.photobucket.com]](http://i1321.photobucket.com/albums/u560/41chevymike/IMG_1716_zps2f8824b0.jpg) ![[Linked Image from i1321.photobucket.com]](http://i1321.photobucket.com/albums/u560/41chevymike/IMG_1713_zpsa4c94d2d.jpg) ![[Linked Image from i1321.photobucket.com]](http://i1321.photobucket.com/albums/u560/41chevymike/IMG_1717_zps9c18c3cc.jpg)
Mike 41 Chevy
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1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
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