VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 1933 207 valve adjustment

Is it common to hear a little tap in the valve train even after the valves are adjusted?I adjusted mine and still hear a little valve noise.

Is this after they all have oil on them?

yes

As the engine warms up they will make more noise. When first started and after 1/2 hour of driving they will make the least amount of noise.
If the rocker arm surface that contacts the top of the valve stem is worn it will "pinch" the feeler and make it impossible to adjust accurately.

Thanks Gene,I'll check that.

I was reading the repair manual for my 1934 master today, and saw to my surprise that the valves (intake and exhaust) should be adjusted with the engine running.
Is this correct? I thought you were supposed to stop the engine while you are adjusting the valves... (?).

That's correct. For one thing they need to be adjusted when warm. Another thing you can get a lot better adjustment when running. You can set them cold and close but the Engine needs to be warm and running to do it and get the correct adjustment.

What I always do is warm the engine up to proper temp, and then SHUT IT OFF to do the adjustments. (Makes you crazy trying to do it with the engine running, or at least it does me.) Obviously, some of the valves will be open at any given point when you shut it off - but it's easy enough to tell which ones are under load, or even to see the rocker up. Then turn the engine half a turn or so and do the remaining ones. I actually take a piece of paper and check off which ones I have done, because it is surprising hard to remember which ones you already did! The engine and various parts easily stay hot long enough to do this accurately, and I believe you can get a better result. Yes, it is important to make sure the bottoms of the rocker arms haven't worn a depression where they make contact to get a good measurement.

For precise adjusment it is done with the engine running. Afder disassembly I will do a rough adjustment with the engine shut-off.
It may take a little practice to do it with the engine running but with the right selection of tools it works out best.
Note that the valve clearence between a 1933 and 1934 is different.

Thanks!

A trick I have used when the rocker is worn at the valve is to have engine running and each in turn loosen off until rattle tighten until no noise + 1/8 turn.
Tony

With #1 at T.D.C. set #1ex. #1in.-#2in.-#3ex.-#4in.-#5ex. Then with #6 at T.D.C. set #6ex.-#6in.-#5in.-#4ex.-#3in.-#2ex. All set. I also set mine with engine hot and not running.

Not to beat this death but on mine I found that if I adjust them cold and check them hot it is the same. "But" I have Stainless valves and hollow push rods and the coefficient of expansion may be different than stock valves with solid push rods. It may be worth a try to set them cold get it hot and recheck them to see how far that are off if any. It's much nicer working on a cold engine.

That does work as suggested. The only problem is if you do it with the engine running some heat has built-up as you work along and the settings will change until fully wamed-up.
The main thing is to have all parts the same temperature, hot or cold.

If you set the lifters while running, how do you keep from getting oil all over the place? On my small blocks, i have some old valve covers I cut up for allowing sockets in to tighten the rocker nuts and feeler gauges in from the side, which kept most of the oil where it belonged.

They also have cold vs hot lash clearances so you can set either with the motor at rest. Usually add .002" for cold with iron heads and block.

Doug

If the car is on a level surface oil will be no probem as there is not that much oil going upstairs compared to a small block.