VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 new clutch 1927

Gentleman, long time reader first time poster.
I have a 1927 Chevy 4 door Landau that I inherited about 13 years ago. I have not done much to it other than minor stuff like added electric fuel pump (the vacuum one was a nightmare) plugs, repaired oil pan leak etc. But it is time for a clutch as it has been slipping for a while and it is about gone…..
I did a search on this forum and it sounds like it is best to leave the engine in? The process in the history is vague other than raise body so the suspension hangs lower. I guess I would like a bit more detail. Does the axle and torque tube get removed from the vehicle? Looking under the car I am not sure where to start. I have had no luck finding photos or any other info. Just looking for a game plan before dig in
I will also need advice on where to get my new parts once I see what I need.

Didier,
If you donot have a 1927 Repair Manual you really need to obtain one. The Filling Station is a good source- they can also help you with clutch parts. Unless you have a lift so you can easily reach the underside I would elect to remove the engine/clutch housing/transmission. That may sound like a hassle but if you need to remove the flywheel for resurfacing, and in most cases that ensures smooth clutch engagement, its much easier when its all out. Also, the pressure plate should get resurfaced and a careful examination of the flywheel ring gear might show extreme wear leading to poor starter engagement . New ring gears can be obtained from Al Suehring in Amherst Junction, Wi or Gary Wallace in St louis, mo. A machine shop that does the resurfacing can install the ring gear.
I know, this sounds like an expensive affair. You can just replace the clutch disc and without pulling the motor. Many folks do it that way. The repair manual tells you how- its your call.
Incidentally, IF you remove the flywheel, mark its position and re-install that way. Same is true of the pressure plate. It can impact drivetrain balance. Dan

Thanks, I see e-bay seems to have lots of manuals for this car so I will get one. I do have an auto hoist and a shop as I live on a farm. (the only problem is finding time) So if I have a hoist I should just do as the manual says? I agree it would be easiest to inspect and stuff with everything out.

Howdy. I'm on the side of the fence that says if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I've pulled the tranny out of my '28 Chevy a couple of times without pulling the engine or taking out the rear axle.

I used a floor jack (lifting one axle at a time) to lift my truck high enough to put jack stands under the chassis so that the rear axle can 'hang down' so the U-joint housing separates somewhat.

This allows enough room to slide the U-joint ball housing back and disconnect the U-joint. The torque tube and rear axle do not need to be taken off.

Now for my Rube Goldberg solution for dropping the tranny. I slid a steel channel 'through' cab (with doors open) and supported this channel from the ends that are outside the vehicle. Now, you can use a come-along inside the cab to support the tranny while you unbolt it, slide it out, and safely let in down onto the floor so you can get to the pressure plate and ultimately the clutch. After you are done with the clutch work, you can use the come-along to safely lift the tranny and slide it back onto the back of the engine.

I definitely suggest you replace the carbon throw out bearing with a newer type of bearing. A number of vendors carry these bearings. Also, check the bronze bearing/bushing that is in the end of the crank to support the front of the tranny input shaft. Now would be the time to change this bearing if needed.

Cheers, Dean

The manual gives pretty good directions but in certain aspects the writers of 1927 assume you are familier with technology of the era.
Part of the job requires removal mat and floorboard to disconnect the e-brake, remove the shift lever, and disconnect the U-joint. That allows the torque tube to drop down( plan on gear lube leaking out). Then you can lift the car and work below. Clearances are really tight as you remove the trans. Strong shoulders are a must- that trans is small but sliding it back and lowering is a bear. I have rotator cuff problems now so my days of removing a trans this way are over!
If you decide to remove the flywheel it weighs about 50 lb so be prepared. Dan

if you want to do it w/o removing the engine

remove the floor boards, remove the bolts holding the ball over the u joint, slide the ball assy down the torque tube, remove the 4 bolts that hold the ball joint in, remove the transmission shifter rod cover (or you'll poke out an eye) there is a front and back to the shifter /trans cover so mark it. i think the serial numbers are towards the engine, verify

you will have to disconnect the brake rod for the parking brake, foot brake and clutch pedal as well as the speedometer cable at the trans before dropping the the trans/ bell housing.

wire brush the grease, dirt and mouse turds off of the front end of the torque tube before pushing the ball/tube down, you should replace the ujoint seals anyway. filling station has kit with the gaskets

to separate the ujoint from the torque tube, I jacked up the rear end which separates and telescopes the torque tube further allowing the ujoint to have adequate room to separate.

Use a good set of jack stands and leave the floor jack as a backup under the rear end pumpkin, be aware of any prying that could tip the car off of the stands, i always remove 2 of the tires and place them under the rear brake plates as a safety step, that makes the paramedics job easier if required ( joke)

there are about 8 bolts that hold the bell housing to the block, remove those and with another person, slide out the bell housing with the transmission.

the back of the engine is supported so no need to worry about the engine rear dropping.

now you have the tranny on the ground, you can separate it from the bell housing, there are a few bolts on the inside of the housing, not just the outside ones, think one is hidden under the clutch fork bracket.

now you have access to the pressure plate and the flywheel if any work needs to be done to it. should take about 2 hrs with the appropriate coffee breaks

I have 2 27's, one is a Landau that i have hundreds of pictures of for ever part before, after removal, disassembled, reassembled and reinstalled. if you want the ones on the clutch, pressure plate and trans removal, send me your email and i will send them to you or any other adventure you choose to do in the future

rjmc1967@yahoo.com

can you view MS 2007 Publisher photo's??

ron

ron

So I purchased this 28 Touring. It leaked every fluid just sitting there, but it just pored when driving. After becoming exasperated I decided to pull the transmission and engine apart. As I did so I found fluid spill/leak the further I disassembled things. Viola! Taking the transmission apart from the bell housing I discovered the bolt behind the clutch fork pivot was missing and was the source of the Biggest leak.

I left that one out once myself. Didn't take long to take engine back out and find the problem.

Hi Didier
The service manual for your 1927 Chevy is available at www.gregsonline.com They also have the owner's manuals. You can also access the 1927 Chevy shop manual online at Old Online Chevy Manuals http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1927/27crmindex.html plus others.

When you get to needing parts, we have the clutch disc, throw out bearing carbon, pilot bushing and the transmission gaskets in stock. Just visit www.marxparts.com or e-mail us at bob@marxparts.com
Regards
Bob@marxparts

on my previous reply I forgot one detail

to remove the U joint ball w/o removing the engine..

when you jack up the rear end from below the differential "pumpkin", support the car with jack stands under the frame then slowly lower the jack stand and rear end...this will extend the torque tube telescope enough to separate the ujoint from the trans

if you do it the way I suggested before and lifted and supported the car below the rear end, the lelescoping torque tube will not extend at all, same as leaving it on the ground

DVD went out in the mail today with pics

ron

got the tranny out yet?

ron

this job is delayed, the winter here in Port Washington Wisconsin has been brutal. Propane shortages have doubled the cost to heat the house and shop and when it is -10 (without windchill) you would be shocked how much stuff breaks. So I just about got all the other tractors and stuff fixed and it is warming up so the 1927 job is on the horizon. I will let everyone know how it goes.
Thanks to Ron1967 for the photos of his all apart that will help.

Trans is out, it went just like Ron said. Everything looks like it can be saved just will need some good cleaning. The clutch arm pins are pretty rusted tight so they might need a torch to get out and free. I will be ordering up a new clutch and T-out bearing. The transmission gear fluid I assume is 90 years old I think it is 200W. It is dark brown in color does anyone know what color it should be? I guess it does not matter as I suppose I will clean it out and replace it.

Congrats! Sounds like good progress. ;-)

The correct oil for the tranny, u-joint, differential, and steering box is Mobil 600W. Search this forum for 600W and you'll find a lot of discussions about it.

Quite thick and dark amber. The number (600W) is not the oil weight. I've heard it compared to 140W.

Cheers, Dean

The car is back on the road thanks all.

Clutch job