VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 1937 Master Deluxe Newbie

I just inherited a '37 Master Deluxe 4 dr sedan, been in the family since new has not run in forty plus years, great shape always inside dry storage, getting ready to start up going to put Marvel oil in the spark plug holes before I move anything.
what oil should I be using? detergent or non detergent? where do I find the right oil or does it matter. This is not my first old car but this one is is special

I would drain the oil and put in 3 Qts. of 10-30 detergent oil....Then change oil again soon (after some running or short trip driving) drain out the 3 Qts. and refill with the required 5 Qts.
The reason for the 3 Qts is because it is all that is necessary and to not be wasteful.
Also before starting the engine remove the valve cover and squirt Marvel Mystery oil on the valve guides ---turn engine over slowly and see if all the valves are moving.
I am sure the fuel system is dirty so clean out the tank before starting.

Welcome to Chat! Any quality 10W-30 oil should work OK. Using my experiences starting my long resting '38, you'll likely have to replace the fuel pump, especially if fuel was left in the system when it was parked. If fuel was left in it you'll need to clean or replace the fuel lines and clean the inside of the fuel tank to remove all traces of the old fuel. My '38 had about 1/4 tank of fuel in it when it was parked. Over the ensuing decades in the barn the fuel turned to a thick sludge that plugged the pump, lines and bottom of the tank. I made the mistake of not cleaning the tank once I got the pump replaced and lines cleared. I just poured fresh gas in and started the car. It started and ran OK but the fresh gas dissolved & mixed with some of the old gas in the tank. The result was stuck intake valves after I shut it off and the new/old fuel congealed on the valve stems. The next time I tried to start the engine I ended up with several bent pushrods and a major headache.

Welcome!

I am also a newbie with an inherited '38 Master Deluxe. My Dad did what Tiny did above...paid a fortune to have the engine rebuilt, but did not drain the tank, let it sit, and bent a few pushrods. The tank had to be boiled. This was about 18 years ago.

When I got the car last year, the "new" fuel had been in the tank for 12 years, but since it had a lot of stabilizer, the fuel was still mostly liquid and left a sticky film. It was easy to drain, there is a drain plug on the bottom of the tank.

I disconnected the fuel lines and used a vacuum hand pump to pull fresh gasoline through, let it sit, then repeated the process to dissolve as much of the film. Same goes for the carb.

Before cranking the engine, I manually opened each valve after putting MMO on all parts. To make things easier, I removed all spark plugs and fabricated my own hand crank, and cranked the engine by hand.

You made your first smart move by asking the questions!!

If you can take off the oil pan easily, I suggest doing so. Then, you can really clean out the sludge in the pan, inspect the bottom of the engine, clean any sludge that is clinging to other parts, and spray some penetrating oil around to provide an initial layer of lubrication for the first few revolutions when starting.

It is good to be cautious, patient, and thoughtful about the ramifications of all actions (and inactions).

Good luck and keep us posted!

Cheers, Dean

Agree on pulling pan.
A suggestion for engines you don’t have a history on and starting for the first time.
Change the oil and maybe drop and clean out the pan. I dropped the pan and it had ¾ of an inch of crud in it. Also the pickup screen was about ¼ plugged. This was on a 47 I had not my 48.

All the above recommendations are very good and important. I would also be looking at replacing anything with rubber in it (plug wires, radiator hoses, vacuum hose, heater hoses, fan belt). Lubricate the generator, starter, and distributor. Get a new battery and clean up the battery cables. Put in a new set of points and a condenser. Get a set of engine gaskets (atleast ones for the valve cover, pushrod cover, fuel pump, carburetor to intake manifold, and thermostat).

Pre-lubricating any moving part that has sat for 40 years is a must as is taking off and cleaning out the oil pan. I would be taking the valve cover off and flooding every hole in the head, and the rocker assembly, with Marvel Mystery Oil in hopes that the lifters would loosen right up and the rocker arms would all move. For a couple of days I would soak the cylinder walls, and crankshaft bearings, before even trying to turn the flywheel. I would try to turn it by hand with a glove on. Turn it by pulling it towards you. If this doesn't work I would turn the crank by prying the teeth on the flywheel against the flywheel housing, using a very large screwdriver as a pry bar.

We have had a lot of discussion lately related to overheating problems from excessive corrosion in the cooling system. I would do a thorough flushing of the cooling system and make sure the engine block and head have water in it before you start up the engine.

We just have had discussion on this topic in the 46-48 Forum. here is a link to it:

Engine startup

To get the engine running could cost you several hundred dollars in new parts, but the down side is not doing the right thing now could cost you several thousand dollars for an engine rebuild. There is nothing mentioned in any of these posts that is not worth very thoughtful consideration, so take your time rejuvenating the engine before trying to start it.

I would start a list of every suggestion mentioned in these posts, and then cross off the suggestion as you finished doing it. Remember what you said to us in your first post, "This is not my first old car but this one is special."

Good luck, Mike

P.S. I am assuming you will not try to drive this car without a thorough inspection and updating (new rubber parts) of the brake system.

I am also assuming you have a 37 car manual, and know about ordering parts from www.chevsofthe40s.com or www.fillingstation.com on line. Both these companies also have printed catalogs that they provide free and are a must to have.

thanks guys, great info, yes I am planning on doing all the other stuff, plugs, points, wires, water pump, radiador flush, brakes, hoses, grease wheel bearings, etc.
I just wanted to be sure I didn't bugger up the engine, I have not had the car on jack stands yet will the oil pan come out without much trouble?

One end of the tie rod has to be "removed" to drop the pan. Thats all.

I, too, think you have been given excellent advice. The only thing I would suggest is to forget about the through clean up of dropping the pan. Not yet, anyway. I know you want to see it the engine has any life, so do this:

a. Get it ouside and building.
b. Get a source of gasoline that you can pour into the carb (you won't get anything from the gas tank.
c. Open the distributor and with the battery hooked up see if you get and fire across the points.
d. Remove the spark plugs and spray in WD-40 (hold the MM oil for later.
e. Remove the valve cover. Using whatever you have slowly turn the engine to free it up. If the clutch is stuck, remove the cover and using a screw driver split the faces of the flywheel or clutch pressure plate from the disc. While under there use Mike's suggestion of a large screw driver on the teeth of the starter gear to loosen it up.
f. fill it up with water
g. Make sure the pushrods and valves are moving. Douse them with the MM oil.
h. Using a 12 volt battery (make sure nothing is on but the ignition), pout a little gas into the throat of the carburetor and try to crank it.
i. Only run it a little bit at a time until you are satisfied.
j. Gene's suggestion on the motor oil is a good one.

The above is suggestions keep in mind that the car hasn't been run for 40 years.

As you're probably going to have to replace the gas tank, and a bunch of other things, and rebuild the engine, anyway you're not going to hurt anything that matters now by just cranking it up. Especially if there is water and oil circulating. Clean or use new spark plugs. Just hearing it run after all this time will do wonders to your enthusiasm and incentive for restoring the car.

Best of luck,
Charlie

BTW: Make sure the oil pressure comes up right away. If not, shut 'er down.

This is another interesting post that puts a start up in a different light.

Rough '46 Aerosedan

Good luck, Mike