Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 66
LGK Offline OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
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So the bottom line is do you need that special tool they refer to (J-1441) to insert into the "key" within the master cylinder so the arms can be removed? I removed my master to ultimately get a dual port replacement, and need the arms off obviously.
Surprised to see that.
Thanks

Last edited by LGK; 08/16/14 09:33 PM.


Larry
Joined: Apr 2014
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LGK Offline OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Posts: 66
Originally Posted by LGK
So the bottom line is do you need that special tool they refer to (J-1441) to insert into the "key" within the master cylinder so the arms can be removed? I removed my master to ultimately get a dual port replacement, and need the arms off obviously.
Surprised to see that.
Thanks

Fiddled with it and the answer is you dont need any special tool. Find the right size long screw once you open up the pipe thread cap and trhead the screw into the key then pull and it will release the key. Then you slide the pedal arms out.

Last edited by LGK; 08/16/14 10:22 PM.


Larry
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I have a 41 and use a 3/16 inch regular threaded screw to remove the pin-lock. The pin-lock was used from 40-54 so I assume all are threaded the same. Use a 13/16 socket to get the grease cup assembly off. The pin-lock is right behind it. Once you screw the screw into the pin-lock you can just take a pliers and wiggle the pin-lock out. Do try to seat the screw well into the pin-lock.

The cavity the pin-lock slips out of should be packed with grease and refilled every few years (3-5). Tightening down the screw inside the grease cup spreads the grease. So for a few years just tightening the screw lubricates the bushings holding the arms that support the pedals.

Good luck, Mike

[Linked Image from i1321.photobucket.com]

[Linked Image from i1321.photobucket.com]

[Linked Image from i1321.photobucket.com]


Mike 41 Chevy
Joined: Apr 2014
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LGK Offline OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Great pictures Mike as always. Yup that is what I did and came out fine.
Now on to getting the dual port master cyl, making new lines and hoping for a reasonable increase in overall braking power. This is on lieu of the original thought of converting the fronts to disc brakes. I was close to doing that until I found that no one makes the discs for 6 lugs so you can use the original wheels. (For a car). Sure you could have that wheel company make a replica but now you are talking discs + new wheel costs. Not in the budget.



Larry

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