VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1946-1948 torque tube bushing removal

I've read alot on okie bushing and seal troubles on the torgue tubes...I have a '54 truck that I am currently taking the okie bushing and seal out of..it looks fairly easy to make a long tool that I can use to drive both out from the pinion end...anybody have any experience in doing this, or is there a better way...also, any tips on what to avoid when reinstalling the new parts? Thanks for your help..

The chevy vendors sell or rent a tool that pulls the bushing out from the front.
I have seen some mechanics that just drive the old bushing back further down into the torque tube with the new bushing (Oakie Bushing) without even removeing the third member or the drive shaft.

i used the bushing seal kit and puller available from the "Filling Station" A real easy fix.

Concerning the torque tube bushing puller from "The Filling Station". Do I take it that you remove the drive shaft from inside the torque tube in order to use this bushing remover tool?

When an Oakie bushing is installed only the front bushing is removed.The old rear bushing and seal are left in place.The front bushing is relatively easy to remove (after dowel is removed).An 8" rod with a hook ground unto the end and slightly flatened can be clamped unto a vise grip and passed between the inner part of the front bushing and drive shaft and front bushing yanked out.I have a "home made" one that the mechanics used to use.To properly remove the rear bushing the drive shaft would need to be removed.

Thanks to everyone...I needed to remove both torque tube bushings and the seal, so I simply bought a 4' threaded rod, double-nutted one end, simpled some large washers on and pulled it through the back half; then I used a washer and nut setup on the front end and simply tightened the rod and it drew the seal and front and rear bushings right out..all in about 10 minutes! Total cost of reusable "tool" was $4.50..

Now, anything I should be worried about in driving the new parts in?

Thanks again to all...

Just besure they are positioned correctly.Drill and re-dowel-as per shop manual.

Thanks, Chevgene...by the way, I know many people have stated that there is a dowel that is supposed to be there..but mine did not have one...what do you think?

I assumed that you had a 1946-48 seeing the post was in this year spread.Looking back to your original post I see that you have a 1954..!950 was the last year to have the bushings retained by dowels.You 1954 uses a press fit bushing.A tool like you devised was used to remove the bushings..When a new rear bushing is installed its driven back until it hits its "seat" so it will be correctly positioned.

Thanks again, Chevgene....looks like I have to go to work on it now..no more excuses!

Gene, I understood that an Oakie bushing was different than the original GM front bushing, I haven't seen them side by side to make a comparison,Would you care to straighten me out on this?
Also, does anyone remember a article in the G&D that addresses this operation? (year and month)

With the Oakie bushing you leave the old rear bushing in place.They give you a new bushing and seal that you drive in in front of the old rear bushing.This allows the new bushing to ride on a new unworn part of the drive shaft.Plus its not necessary to pull the rear end etc.to install a new rear bushing.The rear bushing must come out from the front as its against a seat to position it correctly.The front bushing gets replaced with a standard one.It is also a good idea to install anew U joint at that time.Often the rear yoke is worn where it rides in the front bushing.Also the trunions and yoke will show wear.

I have never used an Oakie bushing but the people I have talked to that have were very satisified with them.They were a fix from years ago.

Very few old torque tube Chevies have a quiet drive line after 50,000 miles.The vibration on the highway caused by the worn bushings can drive you nuts.It was especially bad on the '37-'39 years.

I have a PeeCee clamp on the exterior of the U joint ball on my '39.Years ago I replaced the front bushing and U joint as it had a mild vibration (was low milage back then).It helped some but did more experimenting.Put the clamp on and it has stayed dead smooth on the hi-way.The clamp has an upper and lower plate.It fits over the rear of the U joint ball and the front of the torque tube.The upper half and lower half are bolted together -there are coil springs that keep tension on the clamp-not bolted solid.The rear packing nut is in the center of it and the clamp is formed to fit around it.You see them for-sale at swap meets etc.They were made for 1929 and up I believe.There are several sizes to fit the various years and models.

Thanks for the good info Gene.

Another question to you guys out there...If I have already taken out the rear seal and bushing, along with the front bushing, am I going to run into any problems by just using an okie bushing up front. Do I need to put anything back in the rear to replace the old bearing and seal?

According to what I read the Oakie bushing takes care of all of that.It does have a seal on the back of it-yes?The only thing the old bushing would do is form a stop so you know how far to drive the Oakie in.

I talked to Patricks in Casa Grande, and he told me that you tap the okie bushing in until it is flush with the tube, no farther...I guess I'll see what happens...

Hey Bob ,, when you fit the okie bushing ,, take the time to try and remove as much of the slight burr that gets worn on the driveshaft splines ,, this will help to stop the new seal getting cut as it is installed .
Also use a tool of some sort (drift) when you drive the bushing in , so you do not bruise the end of the bush.
I have done some of these and they work well .
One I had to machine .008" from the OD so it would fit .
If the old rear bush/seal is installed , then the okie will protrude out about 1/8" when seated against the old bush.
When you fit it up , redrill a spot for the retaining peg if it had one ,, otherwise just run some 620/680 locktite around the OD to retain it .

Thanks again to all...I'll let you know...

Hey Bob ,, how did it go ??

Hey Dusty, believe it or not, have not gotten any further on the replacment...the okie bushing was back ordered from Patricks, but never sent...got a message it was coming, but that was over 6 weeks ago...thanks for the inquiry; I'll let you know when I get it done....Happy New Year!