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The rough running engine is still running rough after all the suggestions and my doing all that has been recommended.
New carb - new spark plug wires - new coil - new rotor - new cap - new points( 1949 in that we discovered it was a l949 distributor - new condenser. Setting and resetting the carb settings - Setting and resetting the timing - Checking to see if there is proper vacuum. Checking to see if the vacuum advance is working.
The car idles nicely now however when I step on the gas it hesitates - coughs and then backfires. I set the plugs at .40 and the points at 22 in that they were new.
What do you suggest I do next? I am at a complete loss. I have owned serveral 47's and never any problem less this.
Member # 047137 - 1947 Chevrolet 4 door sport sedan
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Did you check the compression? A leaking intake valve can cause the engine to pop back through the carburetor. Spark plug wires in correct openings in cap.
Last edited by Chev Nut; 07/19/14 05:15 PM.
Gene Schneider
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Hi Gene, In an earlier post he said his compression checked out at 95 on all cylinders. I am wondering if the timing gear could be damaged? Could the engine have been worked on and the gear be off a notch?
Could his manifold gaskets be not sealing? What would that affect? It seems like we have had posts recommending you spray WD40 around the manifold mating surfaces when the car is running and the engine RPM rises if there is a leak.
This is his second sets of carbs, points, plugs, condensers. Could it be the coil, or a bad distributor?
Just WONDERING, Mike
Mike 41 Chevy
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Had the same type of headache many years ago..a friend switched out his carb with mine.viola' Even my newly rebuilt didn't work ,sooo 1 more rebuiolt which worked
Old cars have always owned me.
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Yes, it could be a vacuum leak at the manifold to head connection.....but then the idle would be rough. The poping back through the carb. indicates something else and could possibly be in the carb. If the timing gear was "going" it would be gone by now. Some timies things are described differently and with out being there make it dificult to figure out.
Gene Schneider
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Checked the plug wires - all correct Tried the WD-40 on the manifold - no change in engine speed
Starts right up and idles correctly - press the accelerator down 1 inch to 2 inches and you begin to get a rough running engine - a little futher down and a rougher running engine - and further down a backfire or misfire.
I am not sure when the distributor was changed to a 49 distributor - however, if they didn't install it properly would that cause these systoms?
Member # 047137 - 1947 Chevrolet 4 door sport sedan
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I am betting that the carb rebuilder didn't properly locate the nozzle assembly. It is a common problem with rebuilders that are not experienced in rebuilding the Carter W-1 carburetors. Another problem is coordinating the metering rod and throttle plate. It takes a special Carter gauge to set it or alternate gauge supplied in some rebuild kits.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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I purchased the carb from Chevs of the 40's. You would think they could rebuild the carb correctly.
Member # 047137 - 1947 Chevrolet 4 door sport sedan
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I hate to say this but I have heard of others that had problems with their rebuilts
Gene Schneider
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I haven't counted the number of Carter W-1 carburetors that I have received with the nozzles improperly installed. There is even a flat on the nozzle that corresponds with flat on the air horn to help align them. Most rebuilders just force the nozzle into the air horn however it happens to position. I have also found most don't center the throttle plate in the throat either. Both of those are Carter Carb Rebuilding 101.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Where are you located in Wisconsin? have a distributor you could try.
Gene Schneider
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I too bought a rebuilt from cot40. Or I should say, the people I had working on mine at the time. Had problems from the get-go. Took it to Mr. Stokes ( who I recommended). He fixed it. When I ask what he found, he just shook his head and began a list of screw-ups. When Doyle rebuilds one he puts it on a engine and checks it out before returning.
Russell #38868 '48 4 door Fleetline
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Member # 047137 - 1947 Chevrolet 4 door sport sedan
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You may want to check the fuel pump pressure and volume. You could also have a problem with the pickup in the fuel tank.
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The poping through the carb. usually indicates the "explosion" in a cylinder is taking place while an intake valve is open.While the engine is still running I would remove the valve cover and check to see if all the parts are moving in the same direction with the engine at idle speed. Also would try running a new jumper wire between the coil and side of the distributor.
Too bad your on the other end of Wisconsin . You could get my "extra" distributor and see how it runs with it installed.
Gene Schneider
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TROUBLE ID OVER! I had a thought and followed through with it. Changed the 1949 points back to the 1947 points and the car started right up - a little rough but a whole lot better.
Then I timed it and set the idle speed and the the fuel inflow and it evened right out. Still needs a little TLC but is running fine with no hesitation or back firing.
Thanks guys - appreciate all you interest and help.
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Ah... 1947 points will not fit in a 1949 distributor. 1947 points are smaller because the distribtor plate in a 1947 is smaller. My thoughts are both sets of points are for a 1949 (and many other years). The set that did not work were aftermarket that come with a thing that looks like the arm spring but is only f for grounding so another loose spring comes with the set. If it isn't used the points wil float as engine speed increases. The seconed set of points are like the originals and have one proper spring ATTACHED.
I believe I mentioned this way back in the first thread.
Last edited by Chev Nut; 07/20/14 05:42 PM.
Gene Schneider
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You are completely correct - the first set does not have the extra spring - the new set does. Thank you!
Member # 047137 - 1947 Chevrolet 4 door sport sedan
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rangerart71, Congratulations, all your problems may have come from the points. Sometime you should check your old carb and see if it likewise is okay.
What a great way to end your Sunday, Mike
Mike 41 Chevy
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By now he should have the best running 1947 Chevrolet in the club. Bet he will sleep a lot better tonight also. 
Gene Schneider
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Oil Can Mechanic
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DO NOT BUY A CARB FROM CHEVS OF THE 40S.
I MADE THAT MISTAKE....SENT ME 3 AND EVERYONE WAS BAD!!!
Great company besides that.
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Wow Fleet,I thought I was the one with the bad luck with COT 40's..I have used them for years but most recently received 2 different unuseable carbs from them,the first leeked and next was the wrong year
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Oil Can Mechanic
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I had THE WORST experience with them when I ordered a carb The first would not idle at all no matter what. The second leaked like a bad garden hose, as did the third. Meanwhile they kept charging my card for each one they sent and of course kept charging the core charge as well. I was furious with them as I had done business with them for over a decade.
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Fleet I had all the same bill problems you experience..Took me for ever to get credited correctly...If you remember the sales rep "Ida"Those were the good old days...When Ida had her own business,she's the one that found me the NOS Country Club wood Kit..Great lady
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No doubt Ida was the best and only person I would deal with when she worked there..
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