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Are you turning your T frame upside down?

Can you explain the valve situation a bit more. What is a flat valve? Are we talking about a valve with a flat bottom. Wouldn't this be the same as a modern valve? Other than a slight increase in compression, what is the advantage?

Do you know what the advantage of the Nash rockers are. I suspect the ratio was higher. The old timers seem to have been finding ways to increase valve lift without changing the cam.

The A model guy I spoke with said that he installed a larger intake valve, but the old timers were less about fabrication and more about manipulation.

No I am keeping my frame the right way up however there are a million ways to lower a T - I am using Laurel brackets.
Flat valves seat on the surface of the head rather than beveled seat so increasing opening space. The trick is to get the valves seating tightly.
I am not sure about the Nash rockers. What ever you use to modify lift ratio on a pre 28 head you still have to move the fulcrum . As I understand it the problem with the 28 rockers is they are quite week and can fail if you increase rpm so Nash rockers are probably stronger.

I would love to see some pictures of your project. I am new to this site, is it OK for me to give you my email address?

I was struggling to understand the rocker and fulcrum so I stopped by my machine shop and had someone explain. I still don't understand how you could change rockers without changing the fulcrum and get more lift?

Are you going to use a T rear? I'm guessing spring perches could be welded to the Chevy rear.

Bopnz
It seems that you are quite knowledgeable on this subject, how have you come across this knowledge?

I am under the understanding that the T and Chevy drive is interchangeable. I have seen short dog tractors with Chevy trans mated to the T trans.

There is a lot of info out there for improving the chev 4. Most of what I know I have learnt from the Jalopyjournal.com do a search for 1928 chev and you will find hours of reading. There are some very knowledgeable guys contributing to that thread and is the place to start esp Herb

You should also get a copy of John Gerbers biography. He was the father of chev 4 hop ups

Bopns,
Are you still there? How goes your project? I am now considering dropping a 27 Chevy motor and trans into a T chassis by cutting the drive shaft and putting it back together. This will give me the strength of the T axels with the power of the Chevy motor. I plan to put a stock 28 head on my 27 motor, adding a better carb. What are you using for wheels? I would like to have a set of wire wheels and am considering making my own.

Aha!
I would use the chev rear end - remember T brakes are in the transmission. Chev torque tube is only 4 inches longer and allows you to lower T chassis forward of the axle. You can make chev axles as strong as Ts. Easy to fit chev brake equalizer to T chassis. You wil need to use radius rods attached to outside of chassis rails and inline with universal joint - not a biggy. Ford A radius rods are best as they are the right length and can be bolted straight onto the chev diff backing plates by removing front rivets

If you cant afford buffaloes use 1930 - 32 Chev 19" wire wheels or Ford Model A wires 19 or 21's - The Ford wires are a dime a dozen but you will need to make adaptor plates. Later chev wires will bolt straight on and probably more plentiful in your part of the world than down here.

Kume

I understand the Chevy axles are weak and prone to breaking. I don't plan on doing a lot of ripping and snorting, I just like to play. However, how do you strengthen the Chevy rear? Also, how are you suspending the Chevy rear? Are you using the T spring and welding a clip to the housing?
A

I'd like to bump this thread.

BOBNZ mentioned that a Chevrolet real axle can be strengthened. Does anyone have any input as to how this can be accomplished?