VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Why won't it start?

After 30 years of storage, I have my 1930 2 door to the point where it should start. I have new plugs, wires, and I get a spark when I turn it over. The carb is clean, and has new fuel in the bowl. When I try to start it, I don't even get a "pop". I took the air filter off, and had a friend mist gas right into the carb while turning over. Nothing. I would think that if the plugs are firing, and fuel is going into the carb, at least SOMETHING would happen! I'm hoping that there's something I'm missing, but I can't imaging what it is. Any ideas out there?

I would suspect the ignition system.
Eletrolock shorted, condenser not grounded or?, coil, or...........
I assume when you turn it over you have checked to see if there is spark at the plugs.

but at the plugs?

If I pull a plug, and ground it, i get a spark at the plug.

You can talk the distributor cap off and with the ignition switch on rotate (crank) and see if the points fire..Also check the point gap, and rub a piece of fine sand paper or emery cloth across the points. They may be glazed from years of non use. Check wires to the distributor. Finally are the coil and condenser old or new? I just went through all with with a different antique car. Let us know.

You can take the distributor cap off and with the ignition switch on rotate (crank) and see if the points fire..Also check the point gap, and rub a piece of fine sand paper or emery cloth across the points. They may be glazed from years of non use. Check wires to the distributor. Finally are the coil and condenser old or new? I just went through all with with a different antique car. Let us know.

I'll check the point gap, and see if they fire.

Coil=old
Condenser=old
Cap=old
Rotor=new
Wires=new

I guess I'll check the Filling Station, see if I can get some more parts.

I'd check the compression on the engine by pulling the plugs and holding your thumb over each plug opening while cranking the engine. If the engine has really been idle for 30 years, it's quite likely that several of the valves are stuck open. If that's the case, the engine can't "inhale" the fuel mixture.

All the Best, Chip

I'd check the compression on the engine by pulling the plugs and holding your thumb over each plug opening while cranking the engine. If the engine has really been idle for 30 years, it's quite likely that several of the valves are stuck open. If that's the case, the engine can't "inhale" the fuel mixture.

Thanks, Chip. I think I will. Although, believe it or not, my dad took all 6 plugs out and squirted oil inside. After replacing the plugs, he'd turn it over for a while. Every month, for 30 years! I'm hoping that kept the moving parts lubed up.

That oil never got up to the valves or guides. I would oil the guides/valve stems through the valve spring coils with ATF or MMO. Give it a chance to work.

Check the exhaust and intake. If the car has been sitting in a garage for 30 years those pesky mice might have taken up residence in your muffler ,Also remove the valve cover and make sure the valves are all free.

On the distributor the electro lock cable wires have an insulator washer- the purpose is to insulate from the distributor body. If cracked or not reinstalled properly could be grounding out. A detailed drawing somewhere out there shows a breakdown of the required components. Also the needle seat valve is probably stuck. Remove carb and soak- probably should be rebuilt after 30 years anyway. Good luck!

Actually, the electrolock has more than just an insulating washer that insulates it from the distributor body. There are a total of 11 different parts that are used to connect the end of the electrolock to the distributor body and the points.

Is it possible the distributor was removed and replaced 180 degrees out of time?

ArtM

then it would/should pop back through the carb.

Seems that if there is spark to the plugs and gas through the carb, then something should go bang sometime....even as said, if 180 degrees out of time, it would backfire through the carb at least. Odd....Seems to me that the plugs are not firing or the mixture is not rich enough or both.

Mac

I'm really believing that theory of stuck valves. As the oil drained out of the top end, valves would stick open. Every time the engine was turned over during the last 30 years, the rockers would push down valves, and then they would eventual ALL be open. All exhaust valves open means no suction, and no compression. I'm going to take the valve cover off as soon as I can get a few minutes to do so.

Do you have a compression gauge ?? would be a quick check to see if you have pressure and if so how much...

I bought this INNOVA 3612 Compression Tester a while back and LOVE it, Been VERY HAPPY with it. Comes with a few adapters, one of them being the 18mm. Have used it several time to test my cylinders for compression as well as help me find TDC for setting my timing.

Oh yeah, also bought one of these as well, great for testing IF you have spark or not Lisle 20610 Inline Spark Tester

Great to hook inline and SEE if the plugs are firing...

Just some of the Tools I have added to my Collection and GLAD I have on Hand for my 29 !!

After sitting for 30 years, and before attempting to start the car, one of the first things on the list to do would be to remove the valve cover and check for stuck valves.

Bet the valves don't go up and down...free wheeling timing gear???

So, here's today's news. I took the valve cover off (good advice, gents) and found my answer. As you all thought, the years of hibernation have made the valves stick. I took the bolts off the rocker shaft, and removed the front and rear sections. I'm going to do a thorough cleaning, followed by using the ATF or MMO to let it soak in. Once I feel the valves have been un-stuck lubricated, I'll flush out the oil, and put fresh in.

As long as I'm here, any other moving parts that I should check?

Yes...check for bent push rods due to the stuck valves. And remember.....the next time that you are going to start a car that has been sitting for a long period of time, check for stuck valves first before attempting to start the vehicle. You could damage the engine by trying to start it if the valves are stuck.

You may want to review this thread about preparations for starting a long-time idle engine:

https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/169940

All the Best, Chip