Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Apr 2014
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Two questions:

1) Can they be "easily rebuilt"?
2) How much resistance should there be in the lever when you move them by hand (everything detached of course) to consider them in good working order or bad?

Thanks



Larry
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Have you checked to see if there's fluid still in them...? Rebuilds aren't cheap...There is a bolt on the side to check fluid level...Try that first...It's the one bolt that is usually kinda tore up...lol May need "vise grips" to loosen...

Last edited by kevin47; 07/10/14 06:33 PM.

1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475

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Originally Posted by kevin47
Have you checked to see if there's fluid still in them...? Rebuilds aren't cheap...There is a bolt on the side to check fluid level...Try that first...It's the one bolt that is usually kinda tore up...lol May need "vise grips" to loosen...

I haven't but I will now. Thanks. I am sure rebuilds are not cheap. (PS- with this car being 74 years old, in taking it apart, I have been lucky that no bolt has been crazy hard to take out...). What kind of fluid do they require?



Larry
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Use hydraulic jack oil.
The lever should pull down with quite a bit of resistance and go up with much less resistance.
If needed I have a pair of new.


Gene Schneider
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Originally Posted by Chev Nut
Use hydraulic jack oil.
The lever should pull down with quite a bit of resistance and go up with much less resistance.
If needed I have a pair of new.

Thank you sir. Now that the diff is out getting the 3.55 gear set put in, I can get in there and do all of the other stuff.
I will PM you if I need the shocks you have.



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Do not fill the fluid up to the rim of the shock reservoir. Leave about 1/4 to 1/2 of empty space in the fluid reservoir for the proper fluid flow in the shock. A completely full shock will cause the fluid to expand past the seals causing them to leak. My info comes from Apple Hydraulics a major rebuilder of shock absorbers for vintage automobiles and trucks.

Good luck, Mike


Mike 41 Chevy
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Originally Posted by Mike Buller
Do not fill the fluid up to the rim of the shock reservoir. Leave about 1/4 to 1/2 of empty space in the fluid reservoir for the proper fluid flow in the shock. A completely full shock will cause the fluid to expand past the seals causing them to leak. My info comes from Apple Hydraulics a major rebuilder of shock absorbers for vintage automobiles and trucks.

Good luck, Mike

Good timing Mike. Took the shocks out (which do appear to have the right resistance) drained them and refilled with fresh jack oil. That makes sense in terms of level which I believe you are saying 1/4 to 1/2 INCH?



Larry
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Shop manual instructions for filling 1939-1948 rear shocks. Remove filler plug,fill fluid to filler plug hole. Install plug and work arm up and down to dispell air, remove filler plug and fill to opening. Allow fluid to escape down to the bottom of the filler plug hole. this will allow necessary air space in the shock absorber.
If below the hole the shock is not full. The hole is placed in a way that the shock can not be overfilled.


Gene Schneider
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Originally Posted by Chev Nut
Shop manual instructions for filling 1939-1948 rear shocks. Remove filler plug,fill fluid to filler plug hole. Install plug and work arm up and down to dispell air, remove filler plug and fill to opening. Allow fluid to escape down to the bottom of the filler plug hole. this will allow necessary air space in the shock absorber.
If below the hole the shock is not full. The hole is placed in a way that the shock can not be overfilled.

Thanks. That's very close to what I did out of intuition. And of course there are those springs in their behind both the fill and drain plugs.



Larry

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