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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 67
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 67 |
I have just acquired a 32 of older restoration and have a couple of concerns. The radiator and balancer crank don't line up making cranking impossible. There appears to be a mounting block at the front mount and the engine angle is enough that all of the oil at the valves runs out the back. I have studied the parts book and it is a little unclear to me if this is correct. I don't yet know if this block can be removed or if this is a later model radiator that has the crank hole in the wrong place. Also, the manifold leaks badly after the previous owner had it re-surfaced. The gaskets are thin from the filling station. Is there a better gasket out there, and is this a symptom of something else going on.
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,966
ChatMaster - 1,500
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ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,966 |
During the recent restoration of my '31, after noting oil was pooling at back end of head, I realized a prveious owner had modified the front engine mounting plate. This part I understand is subject to rust out/breaking due to vibration if not tight, and this had happened. The owner added a 1/4" steel strap to the underside of this plate, welded in place and welded in a new mounting bolt. When putting it back in car, he also placed the original 1/4" reinforcing plate on top of the crossmember, instead of underneath the crossmember where it is supposed to go. The result was engine was raised 1/2" higher at front mount causing issues you described.
To resolve mine, I jacked engine up using a wood block against oil pan, removed the 1/4" plate at front (put it under crossmember), and added 2 new 1/4" plates at rear mounts to restore engine to proper level, although it now sits 1/4" overall higher than original. Seems to work fine now. I did have to make minor adjustments to the brake and clutch pedals, including the sheet metal toe plates surrounding the pedals. Crank hole is now only slightly higher than normal, but don't use crank much anyway except for adjusting timing if needed.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
The '32 front engine mount rubber should be under the front cross member. If installed on top the front of the engine will be too high, also the mounts at the back of the engine and rear of the transmission will be affected. The back two mounts are on top of the cross members.
I assume you are referring to the exhaust manifold. Are you having a problem between the manifold and head or manifold and exhaust pipe? or both? If the manifold and head it may be necessary to remove the manifold and check the mating parts for straightness. Often the four bolts that hold the intake and exhaust manifolds together need to be loosened, a new gasket installed and then bolt the manifold assembly back on the head. Aligning the intake with the rings in the head can be a bit tricky.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863 |
Chipper is correct....most likely your problem is that someone installed the front motor mount on top of the crossmember instead of under the crossmember, which would cause your engine to sit too high in front. 1932 was the first year for motor mounts. The 1931 models did not use motor mounts. 
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 67
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 67 |
Thank you all for your quick response. I hope to attend the chevy gathering in Colorado Springs next week if I can get these concerns ironed out by this weekend. Am I crazy to try and drive 150 with a car I don't yet know thoroughly? I may trailer it.
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 67
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 67 |
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