VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 1935 - 207 engine block water drain.

Where would a block drain be if I have one on my 1935 - 207 engine?

From the 35/36 Repair Manual, it looks like the drain cock was added in 1936 to accommodate the draining of the full length water jackets. On the 36, the drain is on the lower left center of the block.

The 1935 and prior were drained by the lower radiator hose.

Thank you...
I installed a "Superstant 160". I will flush her again. She runs all day at low speeds. When I take her on the highway 50-55 MPH the temp runs up to about 205-210. A little gurgling when I shut down but no overheating. I read a previous post about the heavier thermostat. That and boredom prompted the clensing. A petcock would be nice. Will advise.

The fact that it heats up at higher speeds leads me to think the core is plugged-up. Does the core feel equally hot in all areas (don't reach into the fan)

Above the fan is 170-180. In front of the fan is 135-145. Laser gun from Harbor Freight. Thanks for the heads up on my fingers! I had it serviced at the local radiator shop last fall. The car that I could not drive slow (aka parades) because she overheated did an about face and now can run all day at 5 MPH. Go figure???

WISEBRI........try back flushing the system................. hi-pressure garden hose down the thermostat hole to hopefully dislodge any particles. Use something to collect the water/antifreeze and inspect it afterwards for debris. Make sure all the fins in the radiator are tight against the core tubes.

Highway speeds of 50 mph with thermostat of 180 should allow the airflow over the rad core to remove all the heat generated in the water and not run it up to 210. You might also try pressure washing the rad core from inside the engine compartment to blow out dirt, bugs , flys and other insects in the rad core.

A car I owned, a 35 chevy, had a very large olds motor in it and ran hot at 210-220. I back flushed it, changed the thermostat to a moroso 195, changed the fan to a 7 blade Chrysler with a wicked pitch. The motor had 2 temperature gauges in it...........one was in the right rear part of the cylinder head and the other was directly beside the thermostat housing.

At the thermostat the gauge would read `195.........at the back of the head where the water began its journey thru the block, was 160-165. The sysem really only removes 30--35 degrees of temperature from your coolant. Trick is to get it to run consistently in the 180--195 range all the time, once its warmed up.

mike lynch......madmike3434

Thanks Mike. I ran the hose down the thermo housing. And let it drain out of the radiator petcock. A little rust at first but ran clear. A new 160 stat. I drove it about 15-20 minutes but too much traffic to get her up to 50-55 mph. Temp was around 170-175 max. I fear another radiator is in my future. My tanks have been repaired before. I am not sure it is a candidate for a core transplant. I have been searching for another 35 std. radiator with no luck.
Joe

JOE, altho its been a while since I have been to the Dunkirk NY may swap meet, I always saw 3-5 NOS radiators for 34-35 standard at that meet. Actually I used to see them fairly regularly on ebay usa, but not in the last 6 months that I have noticed.

Why not go to ebay and do a search using " 1934 Chevrolet radiator NOS " "1935 Chevrolet radiator NOS ". Use the ***advanced*** search word right behind the regular search button on the right. If there is nothing available use the SAVE SEARCH and click on the box to send you and email if one gets listed. One might not show up for 6 months but when it does you will get an email...........has worked way to many times for me.

Keep watching your temps especially on a 80--90 hot day and watch how it performs. If your thermostat is doing its job, hoses are not collapsing and you have no obstructions in core , you should be fine.

I hear good things about those water wetter products taking 15 degrees off your top temps. I have no need for them , but others like yourself may.

mike lynch

mike lynch

Wisebri,
Running the back flush out the petcock will not create enough flow rate to effectively rinse out much trash. I would be better to remove the lower radiator hose so the volume of water passing through the block and head are as much as your hose and cooling passages can produce. That way you get flow to more of the cooling passages. Low flow severely limits the water path though the engine.

If the engine is running hot it is actually the radiator that would need back flushing also.
Remove top and bottom hoses and force water through the core in both directions (top to bottom and bottom to top). Actually wather pressure is not enoungh and water + air would be better.

OK thanks again. I will pull the top and lower hoses. Flush from the radiator top fill as well as through the lower hose both ways. (Block and Rad)

From a different angle...I would make sure the fan belt is tight. A loose fan belt will pull at slow speed and not pull at fast speed.
Have you checked your Octane Selector Knob? If it is set on "0" that is for 64 to 66 Octane Rating of Gasoline! (Buy any 66 octane gas lately?) 80 Rating of Octane Gasoline should be set at 8 degrees advance. Proper setting gives you maximum fuel economy and maximum power. A late or retarded spark will cause an engine to run hot, too. Be sure to oil your slide to the vacuum advance. It could hang up causing it to be advanced.
Just something to check out from another angle.

Thanks. I did tighten the belt a little. The octane is on +8. She runs well. A little popping through the exhaust when I use the throttle when she is cold. I will double check it all tomorrow.
Joe

Where the octane selector is set means nothing if the actual timing is unknown. First the octane selector should be set at 0. Then the timing is set with the ball on the pointer. Now the timing is set for regular grade gas in 1935. Next the octane selector can be advanced to 8 or 10 Deg.
Don't make the belt too tight. The wide belts are not adjusted as tight as the narrow belts on the later cars.

My car is almost as much work as my wife! I seem to spend most of my time in the garage though???
I will look for someone with a timing light today. Thanks again All. I drove 30 miles the "around town" temp is down to 170-175 now. Which is 5-10 degrees lower and great. When I took her up to 55 Mph she hit 185-190 but the traffic prevented further space shuttle like speeds in the 35. I did find a slow leak in the lower hose when I pulled it and re flushed. The clamp pinched it. I do have a steel elbow there. I did not like the flow rate on the radiator with the garden hose going up or down the rad. So it's back to the garage today with a timing light. We are in the right direction it seems. I am swaying toward the radiator flow as the culprit. The temp now is much more enjoyable.

I run high test. Should I?

You can run nthe lowest octane gas you can find.

Old gas was at 60 Octane. Today's is at 87 or 90 as posted on the pump in Regular with 10% Ethanol as required by Federal Law.

Does a higher octane burn cleaner and cooler?

absolute waste of your $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$, just run the 87 octane. Sunoco 94 and others like it are for high compression 11---12 to 1 comp motors, it serves no good to run it and just costing yourself MOOOOLA.

mike lynch my 2 centavos

Higher octane burns slower....so with a high compression (ratio) engine you don't get pre-ignition (pinging) under a load.
Thats the last thing you have to worry about with a 1935 Chevrolet.

Advice is much appreciated. I was unable to find a timing light today. The fuel saving should afford me my very own timing light.

I drove her on the highway yesterday. She is building pressure and blowing the coolant out of the overflow.

Your now at 212 degrees and boiling.
mike