Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#309395 06/02/14 12:40 PM
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I was driving home last night, and I was stopped at a stoplight.
When I tried to proceed, I heard a metal clang from the rear.
I could nolonger shift into any gears. Also, when I stepped on the gas, a clanging sound came from the rear end.
I have the original drive train on my '41 Chevy Coupe.
There is also oil dripping down the inside of the left rear
wheel. Help. Can used parts be used? Or does one find new parts? Thanks,


Dan.
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Sounds like when I had rear axle problems with my '28. It turns out the ring and pinion gears had WAY too much space between them so the gears weren't engaged as completely as they should have been. The result was broken teeth.

I suggest you open up the rear axle cover and inspect the gears.

The solution to my problem was a torque-tube swap out. Before I put in the good torque tube and pumpkin, I spend a lot of time cleaning out the rear axle housing to make sure all the little metal particles were gone.

When I got my truck running again, I only drove it around the block a couple of times and then changed the rear axle oil. I did this twice for good measure.

Good luck! Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Sounds like a broken axle shift. I would jack the rear end up and turn the left rear wheel. It will have no resistance and will possibly pull out if it's broken. If it checks out pull the rear cover and take a look at the spider gears and the ring and pinion. From what you describe you should be able to find the problem pretty easy.

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My '47 Broke Both Axles 3 years apart from each other. From the Looks of them, they had been cracked for some time, which is hard to believe as they are very beefy for being in a car with so little horsepower.

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Originally Posted by stylemaster47
My '47 Broke Both Axles 3 years apart from each other. From the Looks of them, they had been cracked for some time, which is hard to believe as they are very beefy for being in a car with so little horsepower.
Some time in the past there was probably a teen age driver who revved the engine to burn rubber, hard on axles. Do not aske me how I know! talk

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Thanks for the info. Do I have to drop the whole rear axle?
I took out the bolts on back side of the rear axle cover. However, the cover is really on there. Is there a secret to getting it off? The rear is raised, and the left rear wheel does not move. Thanks,


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If you pull straight out on the tire=wheel..axle and all may come out.


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Use an old screwdriver and tap in between the cover and the rear end. It will break loose, work all around the cover being careful not to bend it.

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OK. Thanks for the tip.


Dan.
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The left rear axle broke. I can't get the pin out that holds the spacer in in the differential. Help.
Thanks,


Dan.
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Hi Dan,

I have several 41's that I have parted out. I can sell you anything you need. I also can provide pictures and the dissassembly steps if you need help. Remember to check your manual on how things come a part. If you don't have a manual there is one on line at http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/. If you have not figured out how to take the pin out by noon tomorrow I will post a picture for you.

Good luck, Mike


Mike 41 Chevy
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Mike: Thanks for the input. I have the '41 Shop Manual.
However, I can't figure out how to take the pin out.
Your picture would be great. Thanks,


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What are you calling the "pin"? If it's the shaft the spider gears rotate on (the one through the block, it's held on by a screw. Rotate the gear assembly until you find the screw head and unscrew it.



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Bob,

The screw head is broken off with about 1 1/2 inches of the screw still lodged in its hole. Danny is in the process of trying to drill out the rest of the screw with a 1/4 inch by 12 inch drill bit.

You can follow some of his progress under the post heading, 1941 Rear End Shaft Removal. That post is just a few topics below this one.

He still has not succeeded so if you can come up with a solution please post it.

Thanks, Mike




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Dean -

Sounds like you had the same problem that I have. I need to replace the ring gear in the differential of a '28 Chevy - the old gear is attached with rivets and I have rivets to attach the new gear - questions: what method is best to set the rivets? I have access to a 50Ton hydraulic press, would that accomplish the setting of the rivets? Would I be better off having a professional with the proper equipment do the job?

JohnDM #313186 07/16/14 10:42 PM
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As answered in a PM, I swapped out the whole torque tube and differential with a good used one. I suggest searching the forums for info about ring gear rivets and/or starting a new thread to discuss replacing the ring gear.

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!




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