VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 Sorting out the '34

Pat, altho I own a beugler striper and at one time a couple of dagger brushes like in the picture..........its harder than you think...........hey only way to learn is to try it. Lots & lots of practice can use Bristol board.

myself I would mask off the lines with tape you pull a line out of then either air brush it or use a high quality flat brush.

Wipe the area to be striped with silicon wax and polish remover.

Grey car, are you doing a green stripe ??? did not notice colour on the can label.

copied picture and blew it up....ORANGE it is

mike

Pat, I have an original drawing of the luggage rack that shows the correct screws used in the lower pivot bracket if you are interested.

35 pete.......I would like a copy of that drawing....send to
mike350@rogers.com
mike350 at rogers dot com


thank you !!!
mike

OK. I'd like to see that, thanks.

ampl@ntl.sympatico.ca

The manifolds are flat now.





The back nut was a challenge. There was no firewall there the last time I installed it.



Started it up & drove it 10 feet outside. Let it warm up. Looks like we licked it. May go for a first ride of the season tonight.

Well I did go for a ride, about 3 miles. It started out fine, but at one stop sign it showed signs of wanting to race. A few stabs on the gas pedal settled it (binding?). On the second half of the ride it stopped twice at stop/red lights. I don't think it stalled, more like wound down and stopped. (fuel?). I've had problems getting a smooth idle (air leaks?) and need to speed up the idle to get it out of its tendency to "bog" down. I have a feeling (since I don't understand enough to know what is wrong) that this is all carb related. Any ideas? I realize that it is next to impossible to diagnose something from 500 miles away, maybe someone can pint me in the right direction.

After, I had removed the plugs in the carb. (look on the under side. They remove with a large screw driver. Must have carb. on the bench.)and dumped out the trash on the screens. A fine dirt was there. It had passed the filter.)I have had your problem. It was the float that was set to low. I opened the carb. and moved it so it would be higher and let more gas be in the bowl. (On stopping problem) On the Motor races, will not throttle down...an old trick is to spray wd-40 around the area to see if it stops racing...air leak in inlet piping..defective induction pipe joints....leaky carburetor flange packing.Also could be "Throttle stop screw open too much". Good Luck. Try one thing at a time then go to the next. It is a mater of trial and error.

WD40 is a good test and equally good is "carb and throttle body cleaner". Both cause a variation in engine revs to indicate where a problem exists.
Tony

Thanks Terrill & Tony. I think I know where to look now. I noticed the spacer and the carb base didn't just slide onto the studs, I had to wiggle them down and they are likely not seated and take air.. I bet they banged or pried the studs in the machine shop. I'll just wrap some tape over the seam first. If it proves to be the problem, then everything has to come apart again.

Pat, if you use a Snap On 9/16" 1/4" swivel socket along with a 1/4" extension you will have an easier time with that rear bolt. Don

It is on now Don, thanks.

I use a "bent" angle box wrench on mine. It is not easy to tighten. Good Going!!! At finding your AIR LEAK!! Good Job.

It is still speculation, nothing confirmed yet.

I have faith in you pat...........

Looks like that was it. I removed the carb and spacer, reamed out the holes rather than prying on the studs and they went right to the bottom. Put a tiny bit of high-temp gasket maker just to seal the air and retightened snugly. Idle is a lot smoother. Went for a long ride yesterday, half of it with stop signs and stoplights, no stalling or stumbling. Went right up to a blistering 50 mph.

Decided to use this cross piece to mount the seat belt anchors to. It is mortised into the sills and the floor pans are screwed to it. I doubt anything would pull it out. Besides it is 1 1/2 inches thick.



Marked the opening of the seat frame then removed the frame. Drilled some pilot holes. The outside ones came out right by the frame.




Had to reduce the recommended minimum spacing from 15" to 13" because the centre holes would have come out above the center of the X-member and would be inaccessible. In the "other car", the short belt is by the door and the long one by the centre. So I'll install these like that.

After much discussion about whether anchoring to the body versus the frame on another forum, I moved my holes back and went through the frame.

The frame (in theory) is a good place to anchor seat belts but in the forbidden occurence the body moves in relation to the frame, guess what happens to the belt?
Tony

With 10 7/16 bolts holding the body to the frame, that is a highly unlikely occurance.

mike

Good reading material! I enjoyed the pics too. The garage as well as the cars are super nice.

Is "Right Stuff" for oil based products? I was told water connections only. Also what does it mean when the oil in the rear plug is above "see level"?

Are you talking about the rear end?

Both. Hi Pat. I thought the Right Stuff was only for water connections. Changing the subject, I pulled the rear cover plug on my 35 and oil came pouring out.

That is probably because oil is getting past the driveshaft seal and is coming from the u-joint ball and the transmission. As for the "Right Stuff" their website says it is good for both coolant & oil.

Tried a short strip on a piece of glass to get the feel of the tape and to practice cutting a point. Works pretty well. This with model paint and a modeler's brush. Next I'll try it with the actual paint and that fancy brush.



Question: this is the only place where the molding don't quite line up. Should I go straight through with the tape and have the stripe visually offset the mismatch or should I follow the molding in case the hood gets its right position some day (highly unlikely).